Engine Surge
#1
Engine Surge
Sorry folks, another one of these. 2007 and a half 6.7, no engine modifications, all stock. This is an intermittent problem that I've been having that usually clears up with several starts and stops of the engine.
I can tell its about to happen because there is a lower than normal grumbling sound coming from the engine, somewhat like if you engage the exhaust brake on a cold engine. I would shift the truck into gear and the engine would surge violently upon stepping on the gas. It would never shift into second gear. I would shift it back to neutral and I would press on the gas and the engine would sound like it was struggling. So, I'd pull to the side of the road and stop the engine and check for codes... NO CODES!! I would start it up again, and I would hear that same deep, low pitched grumble so I'd turn the engine off, wait a minute and start it up again. Eventually, the engine would start normally and the truck would operate normally. Frustrating.
Again, no modifications (with the exception of slightly larger tires... 285/75R17) I can keep remedying the problem by starting and stopping the engine no more than 4-5 times.
What is wrong with this thing? Any help/advice would be appreciated. -WB
I can tell its about to happen because there is a lower than normal grumbling sound coming from the engine, somewhat like if you engage the exhaust brake on a cold engine. I would shift the truck into gear and the engine would surge violently upon stepping on the gas. It would never shift into second gear. I would shift it back to neutral and I would press on the gas and the engine would sound like it was struggling. So, I'd pull to the side of the road and stop the engine and check for codes... NO CODES!! I would start it up again, and I would hear that same deep, low pitched grumble so I'd turn the engine off, wait a minute and start it up again. Eventually, the engine would start normally and the truck would operate normally. Frustrating.
Again, no modifications (with the exception of slightly larger tires... 285/75R17) I can keep remedying the problem by starting and stopping the engine no more than 4-5 times.
What is wrong with this thing? Any help/advice would be appreciated. -WB
#2
Cummins Guru
I would check the operation of the EGR air flow valve first it maybe sticking because of soot buildup. Easy way to check is pull the intake hose at valve and use a mirror and flash light. Have someone start the engine while you watch the valve operation. Shut off engine and valve should close and then open. If it doesn't close and open then replace the valve. Close the valve with ignition off using your hand, when you let go valve should open by itself. If it doesn't then remove valve and clean it. While you are at it wouldn't hurt to remove and clean EGR valve.
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mega-engr (07-12-2016)
#3
Thanks BigIron70. I think I'll leave the big maintenance/repair issues to the big guns. Cleaning/replacing the EGR to me is major surgery. Is there something I can do to mitigate the EGR from getting more and more dirty? I heard that driving with the exhaust brake on will mitigate that. Is that the case? -WB
#4
"California Style"
Driving with the exhaust brake on all the time helps keep the Turbo from suffering this similar condition. There are moving parts (variable vanes and sliding cone) inside the turbo that get sooted and clogged up. The EB keeps these parts moving so build ups atr minimized in the turbo. Not sure it would have the same effect on these Air and EGR valves. Relatively speaking the Air and EGR valve are pretty basic to get to and check operation or clean/replace.
#5
I had a very similar experience. It happened a few times over the course of a couple weeks. I thought it was the turbo (turbine blades) being caked in soot but it could've been the EGR valve. I never found out because I took the turbo in to have the cleaning port installed while under warranty and they broke a drill bit in it, so I got a new one. Once I had the new turbo I deleted the EGR, and everything else I could. That was over a year ago and I have had any issues since.
Like they mentioned, removing it isn't hard. I can send you the removal instructions if you don't already have them.
Like they mentioned, removing it isn't hard. I can send you the removal instructions if you don't already have them.
#6
Cummins Guru
Correction test has changed on 2013 and up
1. Remove the boot from the EGR Throttle Control Valve. Using a mirror, look at the butterfly valve on the inside of the EGR Throttle Control Valve.
2. Start the vehicle, let idle for 10 seconds.
3. Turn ignition off.
NOTE: If functioning properly the EGR Throttle Control Valve will close immediately after the engine is shut down.
Did the EGR Throttle Control Valve close immediately after the engine was shut down?
Yes
• Go To 9
No
• Replace the EGR Airflow Control Valve in accordance with the service information
1. Remove the boot from the EGR Throttle Control Valve. Using a mirror, look at the butterfly valve on the inside of the EGR Throttle Control Valve.
2. Start the vehicle, let idle for 10 seconds.
3. Turn ignition off.
NOTE: If functioning properly the EGR Throttle Control Valve will close immediately after the engine is shut down.
Did the EGR Throttle Control Valve close immediately after the engine was shut down?
Yes
• Go To 9
No
• Replace the EGR Airflow Control Valve in accordance with the service information
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