cbrahs

glad it worked out. I just bought a Hotsy heated parts washer. I have my cooler on the bench and might need to play around with my new washer to see how clean I can get the cooler for giggles.

mjm402001

I just joined this forum out of necessitie. I am a pretty good gasoline mechanic but don't have a clue about the diesel. On the over head console I am getting the message perform service. I spoke with my dealer and he quoted me $450.00. Needles to say I will be doing this myself. The only problem is I don't know what I am looking at. Where is the EGR COOLER located? Do I have to use the Dodge cleaning solution? I see the tube going around the front of the motor. Could some one give me a little more details on this procedure maybe with a couple of pics. I am working on a 2008 6.7. Thanks

rpdsnow

Sore your post check out cbrahs post on EGR & EGR Cooler Cleaning. Has great pdf. I have 2008 6.7 diesel in a 2500 mega cab that gave same message followed pdf made it a piece of cake. rpdsnow.

cbrahs

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4&d=1296699166

the PDF has pictures even

20052500

Great info in the EGR cleaning. I heard the diesels are very susceptible to a bubble in the coolant. What is the best way to fill the coolant after the EGR cooler is removed? Thanks. Rod

cbrahs

I use a tool from MATCO that creates a vacuum on the system, if you don't have access to that, then be patient, there is an allen plug that you remove on the passenger side of the head on the crossover pipe that went from the head, thru the cooler and back into the block (black stand pipe). remove it, poor coolant into the engine slowly. squeeze upper radiator hose to help get bubbles out, reinstall plug, start the truck, put a blanket over the front of the truck to get up to temp faster, keep radiator cap off and slowly squeeze upper radiator hose to keep getting bubbles out. once up to temp, reinstall the cap, remove blanket, fill over flow bottle to the "high" mark. run it for a little trip, dont get all crazy or anything and make sure you check coolant level in the morning before you start it, top off if needed. I always check the coolant every morning for a couple days as I have seen bubbles stay trapped in the block for up to a week.

jswar

Great info in this thread...recently helped me save some $$'s. Thanks for creating it!!

When buttoning mine back up, I first reattached the EGR's lower coolant hose and filled the upper one until antifreeze began to flow back out of the hose. I then reattached the upper hose, and with the vent plug removed continued to fill the system thru the vent hole until it was full. For this I used a syringe like vets/farmers use...buy them at my local Tractor Supply. I've used this method with other hard to vent cooling systems, like the one in my old beater Buick work car and it always seems to work better than trying to fill from the radiator cap or the overflow bottle.

k9prtnr

Are the parts a dealer only or does NAPA or another parts store have them

DirtyDawg

I'm cleaning my EGR and cooler myself for the 1st time, and was wondering about "burping" the coolant side on re-install of the cooler. Great info here. Answered my questions. Thanks

Kdf5

Ok a follow up question here. I had the H&P programmer with the DPF and CAT are deleted. The EGR is command shut but I'm not seeing coal out the tail pipe. The air filter needs changing under normal cycles and stlll has the black soot. On long trips i'm still getting the service exhaust codes which disappear when i shut down the engine.

- Do I need to clean the EGR system or is it a mute-point?

I'm at 73K on my 2010 2500.