Mine is doing the same as ebs It fills up the overflow and then pukes it out but my dealer said that it could be air in the coolant system from when I took the turbo off to put a new gasket between it and the manifold I had to take the coolant line off that runs to the turbo and i didnt really bleed it when I filled it back up with coolant I have tried bleeding it a few times since then but have had no luck. The dealer said they are a pain in the rear to get all the air out when I get time ill take it in and let them give it a try.

 

Derrick...........isn't there a cooling system bleed screw up by the EGR valve ?

 

Up date on the problems with my truck.

Got the truck back Friday afternoon, got called for a short job Sat. morning. (thank goodness it was short) No change whats so ever. Was getting hot before I got to the location, 33 miles away. I loaded up, stopped and put a gallon of water in it before I got to the gate and started back. I had to stop and put another gallon of water in after 25 miles and got the load delivered. It was suggested to bypass the EGR cooler to see if that made any difference. I've got it bypassed but I need to know which electrical connector to unhook to disable the valve for the EGR. Anyone know which one that is?

The engine is running fine, smooth as ever, I just can't keep coolant in it. Unloaded (just the truck) there doesn't seem to be any problems. Put a load on it and build some boost and your water is gone in no time. I now think the problem is in the turbo. It is water cooled, could pressure from the turbo be getting into the water jacket? If so, what is the fix? New turbo?

I really think I paid for a head gasket job for nothing. I think they were guessing. I do not believe it is a problem with the head. If the head was cracked, when the engine cooled water would leak down into the cylinder
and you would either have miss or it would try to lock up when you started it.

 

You bet I'd be raising some heck at teh dealer... That gasket job would be refunded in a hurry! Wish you luck!

 

You failed the egr cooler when you bypassed the coolant to it. They are very sensitive to the heat cycling of the hot exhaust gas. If you do not keep all of the air out of the coolant system, the air gets trapped at the top of the cooler (highest point in the cooling circuit) and super heats the internal cooling fins.

The VGT itself is not liquid cooled. The VGT actuator is liquid cooled. It is not possible to get coolant into the vgt, unless its coming out your exhaust ports or coolant is leaking into the air circuit of the egr cooler and then going to the vgt. you can disconnect the egr crossover tube and see if it is "wet" inside with coolant. If it is, your cooler is failed. The crossover tube is stainless with small v-band clamps at each end and runs from the egr cooler over to the egr valve around the front of the valve cover.

The egr valve is disconnected at the egr valve. You'll have other problems if you try to run with the egr valve disconnected. Not sure how unplugging the egr valve would fix a coolant issue

 

If it wasn't already failed because of no water in the engine, bypassing it wouldn't matter. The engine was "pegged out" several times (heat) before they pressure tested the egr cooler. I had the crossover loose myself yesterday and there was no coolant in it. As far as the VGT goes, I'm just guessing. It is the only thing left that hasn't been "fixed" or checked that has anything to do with the coolant system. It has a new radiator cap, new thermostat, the head gasket changed, head checked for flatness and magnafluxed, EGR cooler pressure tested and the water is circulating so the water pump is working. What's left?

 

I had a tractor with a 8.3 cummins which would run hotter then is should would push just a little water Ended up being a hole in the cylinder liner(electrolis) Only thing about it being a cylinder problum is you would think that once and a while you would get enough water in one clyinder so it would be hard to start. I hope you don't have a block problum

 

Just got a call from the dealership and was told that technical services told them the first thing that should have been done was to change the EGR cooler. When told that the EGR cooler was checked at a radiator shop and was OK, they said that they can't be just pressure checked like a radiator. I'm getting this second hand from the service writer, the tech talked to the tech services people. Apparently there is a special way or procedure to check them. Anyway, there is one on the way, it is a restricted part so it will be a few days getting here, $800+ for the part, not counting labor,bringing it up to well over $3200 for the total repair if this fixes it. Any suggestion, if this fixes it on what to do about the first $2400 in repairs that might not have been needed. First time I've run into anything like this.

 

Big pow wow.You,dealer(including owner or who is in charge and see if the FACTORY wants to be involved in any form for you and the dealerships behalf

 

Amen,,,,,, Don't let them get away with it. Be nice but firm to a point of not being nice any more..... I hate guess work..... makes me mad as all.....

 

Well sometimes stuff happens.New technology.Big expensive learning curve.Happens a lot on new models.Pain in the rear for all involved.Curious if STAR has any logged issues of same problem elsewhere.

 

EB-

You shouldn't have to pay for the techs to learn. I hope they'll work with you on this...

 

When in doubt on new stuff I know their not the end all but thats what STAR(engineering) is for.They may have not had a clue but I'd rather call and see if this had been a issue(the loosing coolant)before I started taking it apart.I guess there very well might be exhaust in the cooling system.

 

This kind of stuff drives me crazy too.

I used to be a journeyman mechanic at International In Reno. The service manager would send us on the stupidest wild goose chases all at the truck owners expense. Their business went down and down. I was embarrased to be doing what seemed so off the wall.

When we go to an authorized dealer we expect to get competent service by knowledgeable people who know the product. If they are simply throwing parts at it at your expense they are just plain ripping you off.

Start with a total refund on all previous work and have Dodge suggest where you can get a correct diagnosis and a correct repair. If that gets you some more problems then Dodge is on the hook for the cost of that second try. Meanwhile remind them that your down time is costing you a lot and they have been charging you for work they can't perform.

You don't have to get right in their face, but let them know they owe you a refund on work that was not needed and they are costing you money with all the down time while they keep guessing. It's time to go directly to Dodge and get them involved before this blows up in their face.

I have been through this before with a Jeep and I'll never do it again. My patience is very thin when being charged for tearing my truck apart by someone who doesn't know what's wrong.

Good luck and put on your serious face.


John

 

wonder if that 03 you left with 345K on it is still running? hope you get your prob fixed i hate it for you since you make a living with this truck. Sound like a trade in to me. Dont put anymore money in that thing.