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Whats the better tranny

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Old May 10, 2006 | 07:54 PM
  #16  
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I have a bad knee so could not get a manual tranny. I feel manual truck transmission is better for hauling, being strudy and safer. However, I've been merciless on my 48re and have had no trouble at 50,000+ miles.

Jeff
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Old May 10, 2006 | 08:52 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by D.Wiggs
different than cars and manual cars are always faster than autos.
Then why do professional drag racers run automatics? A shift kit in an automatic will change gears much faster than a human can throw gears.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #18  
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Smile

Top Fuel cars use manuals (clutch with high gear only), Top fuel Funny cars the same, Pro Stock cars use clutch and manual trans. Manuals are .15 quicker and 1.5 mph faster than auto's with the same combo. If auto's were quicker/faster..they would use them. They (auto's) are easier to drive down the quarter mile. That part is true. Terry.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:18 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by blord
Then why do professional drag racers run automatics? A shift kit in an automatic will change gears much faster than a human can throw gears.
What Heads (above) said. And with other racing, do not confuse F-1 or computer controlled manuals with automatics. An automatic will always lose more power given that there is no direct mechanical connection the way that a manual does.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:20 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by abc4yew
If you are towing all the time and it is just you driving then a 6speed is the best. IF you are powering up to anything over 400hp you will need a heavy duty single or double disc clutch.

If their is a driver who doesn't shift driving the auto is the way to go. If you are sledpulling it could go either way. If you are going to the strip (and I don't mean club) then the Auto is 2 seconds faster with the same engine setup. When the 6speeds used to have a longer OD they would get amazing mileage over an auto....For 05's and 06's the mileage difference is much less.


It costs $2500 to 3500 to bombproof a manual and $ 6500 to 10k to bombproof the auto. By bombproof I mean 500hp towing 30k anywhere or 650hp racing. You can do it for less by cutting out some billet shafts and performance won't suffer....only durability. Given what I have now.....if I bought a second truck it would be a 6speed with a short shift and a double disk clutch with clutch pressure boost and a billet shaft. My auto works great for an auto but a 6speed is the best for all round. ks

What would your "bombproofing" entail for my '06 6-speed other than a twin disc SB clutch? How much do those clutches run anyway ? I am shooting for 600RWHP.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:59 PM
  #21  
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i do plan on towing here and there a 15000lb excavator and putting in a triple dog so i will be using it for every thing
A good TC and VB with some pressure increase will handle that. A lot will depend on how you treat it, ie service and driving style, but the 48RE is plenty good enough with a few mods to handle 25 to 30k GCVW. The auto is a proven piece while the G56 is still relatively new enough the jury is still out. The NV5600 is probably the toughest, but, it is sensitive to driving styles and expensive if is needs work plus it is no longer made. Unless you are just constantly dragging around mountains or like taking your time the auto is the best choice on all fronts.

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Top Fuel cars use manuals (clutch with high gear only), Top fuel Funny cars the same, Pro Stock cars use clutch and manual trans.
TF and FC cars run high gear only. They use clutch slip and tire spin the same way a TC does. Pro stock runs a Liberty trans that is a clutchless shift. Clutch is used to launch only. You won't find a pro category car running a clutch shifted transmission. Too slow and to imprecise. The consistent cars run an electronic shifted auto unless it is banned then its a Liberty or Lenco which is shifted just like an auto. I hear this comparison all the time and it is totally bogus. Race transmissions are more like automatics than anything else.

An auto in lockup is only slightly less efficient than a heavy manual and the auto would win any speed shifting contest due to the slow shifting characteristics of the manuals.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #22  
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I got the 6 speed cuz they hold up better in the long term, form what I've read the Dodge auto's are a problem, especially if you'll be modifying the engine. I also got the 6 speed cuz I just like a stick over an auto, plus I have an extra gear to keep the revs in the 'sweet spot' when towing.

That being said, there's no way I can shift as fast as an auto, plus every time I shift I lose the turbo. Even starting in 2nd it'd time to hit 3rd before you're across the intersection.
If I wanted a ¼ mile race truck (which I dodn't) I'd go with an auto knowing it will need much $$ put into it if/when I add the mods.

(my 2¢)
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:38 AM
  #23  
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I owned an auto before this truck I just bought, the main reasons I got the 6 spd were gear selection I hate it when you are cruising around and somebody in front of you is going just below the speed that your truck shifts so the tranny up and down shifts back and forth, also I knew that the six speed would keep me grounded, what I mean is im not rippin around town and racing everyone. I did that with my last truck. If you want to race then get the auto.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:41 AM
  #24  
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One advantage if you are towing with a 6-speed and using an exhaust brake you will not need an electronic box to lock up the automatic when the brake is engaged. You can pick the gear you want and stay in that gear.

L8r,.............dogger
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:50 AM
  #25  
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D.Wiggs, Talk to John_P he's got a high powered 6 speed as does PourinDiesel.

I'd get a McLeod (from Haisley) or a SouthBendClutch (SBC) from SBC or one of the vendors on this site that meets your usage needs...towing weight vs play time vs empty vs power/torque. A boost "assist" kit to hold that clutch, A FluidDamper harmonic Balancer to keep things smooth and quiet. I don't think you would have to do any billet shaft upgrades if 600hp was your goal unless you wanted to tow at that level. Talk to the guys that have these mods done (not those that wish they had a truck to do it on) and good luck. ks
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Old May 11, 2006 | 11:21 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by abc4yew
D.Wiggs, Talk to John_P he's got a high powered 6 speed as does PourinDiesel.
You need to talk to John_P's son Banshee, all of John's trucks are the auto, his son's truck is a 6 speed with the dual disk clutch.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 01:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Hounddog
With some mods(torque convertor/valve body) the auto would be faster and more consistant.Only RICERS drag manual trans cauise they kinda got to(small engines etc.) But anything with TORQUE racing is most always a auto.


Did not realize Pro Stock was Ricer territory. That being said, MOST cars that are strickly racing, and want to be consistent, use an auto. Top Fuel and the like use a direct drive setup, with a clutch however. Most of your Outlaw 10.5 classes run Powerglide trannies, with some Liberty 5 speed manuals' thrown in. Just throwing out brief info on the racig scene
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:31 PM
  #28  
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Auto's are auto's and manuals are manuals...regardless how they are shifted. Manual, air. still a manual trans. there is NO fluid cuppling between engine and driveshaft. They may act like an auto...but it isn't...Yes top fuel cars do run a clutch...I believe I said that..clutch slips like an auto..but NOT an auto. Pro Stocks use the clutch ..I said that too..and is shifted pneumatically...still a manual and NOT an auto.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 01:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Mcmopar
You need to talk to John_P's son Banshee, all of John's trucks are the auto, his son's truck is a 6 speed with the dual disk clutch.

Thanks guys. I am assuming that "Banshee" is his username and not his real name! I will definitely have to talk to him. I do want to tow with the 600RWHP setup. What is the reason that so many of the high HP & TQ number setting on many boxes and programmers are "not for towing". Assuming that your truck was built well enough, wouldn't you want all the power and torque you could get ? I would think that you would want to "detune" it when you were empty, not loaded. I would love to know the rationale behind that.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 08:24 AM
  #30  
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This is entirely my idea on this, but when you are fueling really hard, and advancing the heck out of the timing you are stressing everything. If you then throw a 10-20,000 lb trailer behind you you would be taking everything to even the next level of stress which might be the "end" of something in the drivetrain and these "box" builders do not want the lawuits that might/would follow if they recommeded towing with everything MAXED out.

JMO

Mc
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