What new HO owners should know
Re:What new HO owners should know
I e mailed cummins about using stanadyne,they said that they do not recomend putting any additive in the fuel,and that it would void my warr.don't flame me thats what they said.
Re:What new HO owners should know
No flames, but they are incorrect and actually if they said it as clearly as you put it, its against the law(magnusson-moss act). This again is a CYA statement to protect them against people using bad additives, particularly those that contain alcohol. Using a fuel additive will void your warranty if and only if, it can be shown that the fuel additive caused damage. If your rear axle breaks they will not deny your claim due to fuel additves... If some injection equipment fails, and you actually ADMIT to using additives(doh), they may use it as an excuse. <br><br>I've run stanadyne in my MB and VW since day 1. When it's 15F or less(used to live up north), cold startups with the stanadyne were noticeably smoother and quiet. I honestly never noticed a thing with power service, but that stuff is cheap/crap anyway, it's 77% diesel fuel. Specifically, stanadyne's perf formula is endorsed by VW for winter use. MB recognizes a few select additives as well for 'winter use' , mostly for gel point/cloud point depressants. Folks thats the number one use of additives, winterizing fuel. If you can find number 2 diesel and additize it for winter use, you have done yourself a favor. "winterized" diesel contains usually a percentage of #1 diesel or kerosene, both of which have lower BTU content(mpg) and lubricity. Lubricity additives or a gallon or two of biodiesel is a very prudent process with winterized fuel, to restore the lubricity. Good fuel manufacturers properly additize their fuel at the terminals, however you can't be sure, which is why additives are cheap insurance.<br><br>Finding good quality clean fuel however is more important than choosing/using an additive. If you find a consistently good source, you will be home free. There just aren't too many around of them :'( ALl the guys in WI and MI etc that have access to Amoco Premier make me sick with jealousy! Its 50 cetane minimujm with all the additives already put in.
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Re:What new HO owners should know
"I honestly never noticed a thing with power service, but that stuff is cheap/crap anyway, it's 77% diesel fuel."<br><br>HMMMmm - that's a pretty inflammatory statement - hope you have something solid to base it on! I'm not necessarily concerned about the degree of "vehicle" used by a chemical maker - maybe PS and others DO use varying percentages of diesel or other compatible fuel as a carrier - what about the OTHER 23%?<br><br>I think *I* would like to see LOTS of elaboration and explanation for that claim...
;D ;D
;D ;D
Re:What new HO owners should know
LOl gary, you get what you pay for
. The 23% outside of the diesel fuel in powerservice is good stuff, as far as I know. It's just far less concentrated, you have to dump nearly twice the ounces of PS as compared to stanadyne, or the super concentrated primrose.. (12 oz primrose treats 187 gals!)<br><br>As far as my use, of course it's relatively subjective, as I wasn't measuring db's etc, but I ran powerservice for a while, and switched between it and stanadayne, and in my experience, I've never noticed any benefit I could hear or feel with the PS. Thats not to say the DFS won't effectively depress the pour/cloud point when dosed properly, I fully believe it will. I think possibly the lubricity additives are not quite as strong as the stanadyne, hence the quieter idle and smoother operation that I noticed. The stanadyne is based on a lubricant type oil, not #2 diesel as filler...<br><br>Either way, you are only helping by dumping additives in, I'm not trying to nitpick too much between brands..
. The 23% outside of the diesel fuel in powerservice is good stuff, as far as I know. It's just far less concentrated, you have to dump nearly twice the ounces of PS as compared to stanadyne, or the super concentrated primrose.. (12 oz primrose treats 187 gals!)<br><br>As far as my use, of course it's relatively subjective, as I wasn't measuring db's etc, but I ran powerservice for a while, and switched between it and stanadayne, and in my experience, I've never noticed any benefit I could hear or feel with the PS. Thats not to say the DFS won't effectively depress the pour/cloud point when dosed properly, I fully believe it will. I think possibly the lubricity additives are not quite as strong as the stanadyne, hence the quieter idle and smoother operation that I noticed. The stanadyne is based on a lubricant type oil, not #2 diesel as filler...<br><br>Either way, you are only helping by dumping additives in, I'm not trying to nitpick too much between brands..
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Re:What new HO owners should know
"LOl gary, you get what you pay for . The 23% outside of the diesel fuel in powerservice is good stuff, as far as I know. It's just far less concentrated, you have to dump nearly twice the ounces of PS as compared to stanadyne, or the super concentrated primrose.. (12 oz primrose treats 187 gals!)"
Not to be a "nitpicker" myself, but HOW is the level or degree of "treatment" arrived at - what "standards" of REAL performance established in regards to treated lubricity?
ONE company, with THEIR specific formula may state 1 ounce of their magic stuff will "treat" 5 gallons of fuel - while another make will claim THEIRS will "treat" 10 gallons - is there a standard for "final fuel lubricity" that is widely accepted - or are these guys simply tossing meaningless percentage numbers around?
As far as "it sounds better (I think), so it MUST *be* better", that's highly subjective and unscientific - I know guys who will swear washing their truck makes it "feel" more powerful...

Not to be a "nitpicker" myself, but HOW is the level or degree of "treatment" arrived at - what "standards" of REAL performance established in regards to treated lubricity?
ONE company, with THEIR specific formula may state 1 ounce of their magic stuff will "treat" 5 gallons of fuel - while another make will claim THEIRS will "treat" 10 gallons - is there a standard for "final fuel lubricity" that is widely accepted - or are these guys simply tossing meaningless percentage numbers around?
As far as "it sounds better (I think), so it MUST *be* better", that's highly subjective and unscientific - I know guys who will swear washing their truck makes it "feel" more powerful...

Re:What new HO owners should know
The exact testing methods the additive manufacturers use to determine dosages are not something I know. However, these are not 'snake oil' products with no benefit, as you seem to assert. If you don't choose to use them thats fine, but don't attempt to discredit the work of the engineers that take these products seriously. Its very simple to take two jars filled with the same diesel fuel, add anti-gel additves to one, and leave the other pure diesel, and throw them in your freezer. Do the experiment for yourself, and you will see completely objectively that the treated diesel will stay fluid to a MUCH lower temperature.<br><br>Again, finding a source for good and CLEAN fuel is the key.
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Re:What new HO owners should know
[quote author=Lightman link=board=20;threadid=14986;start=#142244 date=1053969429]
The exact testing methods the additive manufacturers use to determine dosages are not something I know. However, these are not 'snake oil' products with no benefit, as you seem to assert. If you don't choose to use them thats fine, but don't attempt to discredit the work of the engineers that take these products seriously. Its very simple to take two jars filled with the same diesel fuel, add anti-gel additves to one, and leave the other pure diesel, and throw them in your freezer. Do the experiment for yourself, and you will see completely objectively that the treated diesel will stay fluid to a MUCH lower temperature.
Again, finding a source for good and CLEAN fuel is the key.
[/quote]
UMMMmm - not sure who THAT was directed at, but *I* wasn't "asserting" or "discrediting" ANYTHING! I'm merely asking what SEEMS like reasonable questions - which I have found in the past to be an excellent way to get ANSWERS...

If you don't know the answers, all you need do is say so - there are a few things *I* don't know either
- and not much point in getting my feathers ruffled over it - easier and less antagonizing to simply admit it than to try to bluster my way thru it.
;D ;D
And it isn't the JELLING aspects I was asking about, but the LUBRICITY - and I'm not aware of how a user would easily accomplish a "home test" for that aspect of an additive.
But since this side street has apparently hit a snag, I'll simply consider it closed and move on...
The exact testing methods the additive manufacturers use to determine dosages are not something I know. However, these are not 'snake oil' products with no benefit, as you seem to assert. If you don't choose to use them thats fine, but don't attempt to discredit the work of the engineers that take these products seriously. Its very simple to take two jars filled with the same diesel fuel, add anti-gel additves to one, and leave the other pure diesel, and throw them in your freezer. Do the experiment for yourself, and you will see completely objectively that the treated diesel will stay fluid to a MUCH lower temperature.
Again, finding a source for good and CLEAN fuel is the key.
[/quote]
UMMMmm - not sure who THAT was directed at, but *I* wasn't "asserting" or "discrediting" ANYTHING! I'm merely asking what SEEMS like reasonable questions - which I have found in the past to be an excellent way to get ANSWERS...

If you don't know the answers, all you need do is say so - there are a few things *I* don't know either
- and not much point in getting my feathers ruffled over it - easier and less antagonizing to simply admit it than to try to bluster my way thru it.
;D ;DAnd it isn't the JELLING aspects I was asking about, but the LUBRICITY - and I'm not aware of how a user would easily accomplish a "home test" for that aspect of an additive.
But since this side street has apparently hit a snag, I'll simply consider it closed and move on...
Re:What new HO owners should know
As I said, I'm not sure how they test the additives to determine proper dosage. I hope you arent indirectly claiming I'm 'blustering' my way through anything, because everything I've presented is factual. I think Gary you are to a degree attempting to discredit the additives, by referring to them as 'magic stuff' etc.... putting them in line with the likes of mystery and snake oils, like slick 50.. Anyway, you're right, this has digressed too far from the post's original topic... to which I say, use additives, unless you can verify your good fuel source ;D
Gary, do you know whats in YOUR tank?
Edit: Gary that is a darn good question the more I think about it, i'm going to email one of my colleagues who is a lubrication engineer and ask him about the lubricity tests.
Gary, do you know whats in YOUR tank?
Edit: Gary that is a darn good question the more I think about it, i'm going to email one of my colleagues who is a lubrication engineer and ask him about the lubricity tests.
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Re:What new HO owners should know
I think we got off track because you assumed I was ridiculing something, when I was not - I'm pursuing this particular subject because you made a statement about a product - Power Service - that I use regularly - I don't "know" any more about it than what they print on the jug, and when you stated it is 77% diesel fuel, and "cheap crap", that raises reasonable questions - the first being how you have arrived at that figure and opinion, the second, what are the OTHER ingredients. It also raises reasonable questions as to how the competing additives are formulated, and what reasonable standards of performance might exist in the industry.<br><br>If there is a product that has PROVEN to be better in performance and value, *I* want to know about it!
<br><br>I *also* want to know HOW it was PROVEN to be better, and that's not unreasonable!<br><br>Based on your other posts on the subject, I sorta respected you opinion, and wanted to hear what you might actually know on the subject, based on actual analysis and tests - I thought that was your backround and line of work, and hoped for actual, first-hand info. If you didn't HAVE that info, a simple "I don't know" would have worked just fine. <br><br>Anything else is pretty much an educated guess... Those little smilies I put at various points in my posts aren't intended as meaningless decoration, they are meant to indicate the spirit of my comments - you might want to check to see where and how I have used them in my posts.<br><br>My questions here have been:<br><br>1. What percentages of actual additives are used in the several brands you have mentioned, compared to their accompanying carrier solutions (if any).<br><br>2. What industry standards exist to specify what actually constitutes a give volume of fuel being "treated" to a specific level of performance.<br><br>So far, that has not been answered, and I assume you don't have an answer, and that's fine - I don't either - no big deal.
;D<br><br>As to "what's in my tank" - well, for sure, (I think!)
), there is 16 ozs of synthetic ashless 2-stroke oil, 16 ozs of PS Fuel supplement, and 50 gallons of whatever Flying J happened to be pumping as diesel fuel at that time - and as you have stated here - THAT changes from time to time and load to load - so do ANY of us really know what's in our tank?
<br><br>Take this as it's REALLY intended, good honest interest, inquiry and humor - NO devious, abusive undertone or insult intended in the slightest - honest! ;D ;D ;D
<br><br>I *also* want to know HOW it was PROVEN to be better, and that's not unreasonable!<br><br>Based on your other posts on the subject, I sorta respected you opinion, and wanted to hear what you might actually know on the subject, based on actual analysis and tests - I thought that was your backround and line of work, and hoped for actual, first-hand info. If you didn't HAVE that info, a simple "I don't know" would have worked just fine. <br><br>Anything else is pretty much an educated guess... Those little smilies I put at various points in my posts aren't intended as meaningless decoration, they are meant to indicate the spirit of my comments - you might want to check to see where and how I have used them in my posts.<br><br>My questions here have been:<br><br>1. What percentages of actual additives are used in the several brands you have mentioned, compared to their accompanying carrier solutions (if any).<br><br>2. What industry standards exist to specify what actually constitutes a give volume of fuel being "treated" to a specific level of performance.<br><br>So far, that has not been answered, and I assume you don't have an answer, and that's fine - I don't either - no big deal.
;D<br><br>As to "what's in my tank" - well, for sure, (I think!)
), there is 16 ozs of synthetic ashless 2-stroke oil, 16 ozs of PS Fuel supplement, and 50 gallons of whatever Flying J happened to be pumping as diesel fuel at that time - and as you have stated here - THAT changes from time to time and load to load - so do ANY of us really know what's in our tank?
<br><br>Take this as it's REALLY intended, good honest interest, inquiry and humor - NO devious, abusive undertone or insult intended in the slightest - honest! ;D ;D ;D
Re:What new HO owners should know
I dont know the actual percentages of how much each particular company's products are watered down, but they all shoot for a similar benchmark, which is what you are asking, and I can't answer your question exactly unfortunately. Most additive companies shoot for a few things on an average basis(these are actually specs for primrose):<br>1. 5 cetane boost<br>2. corrosion preventive<br>3. lubricity enhancement<br>4. injector/system detergency<br>5. Varying methods of dealing with water(demulsify or emulsify, THAT is a whole separate discussion!)<br><br>These are the basic improvements most of the popular additives make. If you think about the cost of them though, consider primrose #405. Gary you said you put 16 ounces for 50 gallons in your tank if I remember correctly. Not sure how much that costs, but with a highly concentrated additive like primrose, you would only have to dump in 3 ounces. With stanadyne which is more concentrated than PS but less than primrose, you'd be somewhere in between. Primrose has just recently become available to the public, after they've been making 90+% of the additives the US military uses. They aren't very strong on the retail front, but heavy on R&D and . I've switched to primrose recently and have no complaints so far. you might want to look into that, it could save you some $$. As far as powerservice specifically, the 77% figure I believe I got from Mandy Kramer at Powerservice's corporate office, I'll have to look through my old emails. They actually sent me out a free case of PS to try and review for them. They are nice people, just an admittedly slightly "watered down" product.<br><br>As far as putting in whatever flying J serves up, that could prove risky business, although you are covering your rear by adding the 2 stroke oil for lubricity and the PS. To find a good fuel source, you must first find a source that is either corporate owned and is required to buy only their branded fuel, or privately owned and allowed to buy whoever has the cheapest price (and usually quality) at the time. The one exception to that rule here in FL, is Hess. While a hess station may be privately bought as a franchise operation, they are required to buy only hess fuel. Once you've found a station with a consistent fuel supply, then it is prudent to test the source for quality, and you can again in a few months to re confirm if necessary. My local hess we tested 3 months ago and were very pleased to find the fuel had a cetane index of 50 8), and reasonably clean particulate levels. We tested it again a few weeks ago and 48 cetane and similar particulates. I feel thats a reasonable amount of data to assume we've found a consistently good source. Might want to look into a test, its great to finally see exactly what you're pumping into your tank.
<br><br>Last but not least, I am not in this business whatsoever, I'm just an avid diesel enthusiast. I am in contact with many industry professionals and am always on the quest for more diesel truth! ;D
<br><br>Last but not least, I am not in this business whatsoever, I'm just an avid diesel enthusiast. I am in contact with many industry professionals and am always on the quest for more diesel truth! ;D
Re:What new HO owners should know
I believe its a little under 3 cents/treated gallon if my math is correct, which it might not be, lol. The appropriate product is the powermaster 405, it has everything you need minus anti-gel. The winter formula which is 405 plus anti-gel is possibly called 409. I never really looked into it, living in Florida
It's really cost effective in my book, a $5, 12 ounce bottle treats 187 gallons. I've so far only found it in cases of 6 twelve ounce bottles, for $30. If you'd like the info on where to get it and fuel test kits, email/pm me, I dont want to upset any of the powers that be on the forum by posting links to non sponsors etc. Not sure how this forum is about that but some are very sensitive!
It's really cost effective in my book, a $5, 12 ounce bottle treats 187 gallons. I've so far only found it in cases of 6 twelve ounce bottles, for $30. If you'd like the info on where to get it and fuel test kits, email/pm me, I dont want to upset any of the powers that be on the forum by posting links to non sponsors etc. Not sure how this forum is about that but some are very sensitive!
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Re:What new HO owners should know
I did a little quick snooping - found the VA website where the Primrose stuff is sold - according to their display, enough of the Primrose stuff to treat 187 gallons costs $30 - or 6.2 cents per treated gallon of diesel fuel.
The PS stuff sells for $10, enough for 300 gallons, or 3 cents a treated gallon...
At this point, it becomes an individual judgement call as to what an owner chooses to do - "you get what you pay for" rings in ONE ear, and "there's a sucker born every minute" rings in the other!

Thanks for all the helpful info - it's all interesting to consider.
The PS stuff sells for $10, enough for 300 gallons, or 3 cents a treated gallon...
At this point, it becomes an individual judgement call as to what an owner chooses to do - "you get what you pay for" rings in ONE ear, and "there's a sucker born every minute" rings in the other!

Thanks for all the helpful info - it's all interesting to consider.
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Re:What new HO owners should know
"Gary, that price on avlube's site, which i'm assuming you're going to, is for 6 bottles for $30, and each bottle treats 187 gallons my friend."<br><br>Are you sure? ???<br><br>That would be 1 cent per treated gallon - and it isn't what is displayed in their product description OR ordering section. ???


