THe dealer is replacing the rearest joint. THe trucks only got 65,000 kms on it. My 97 went over 300,000 before I changed the only one to go on it.
When I come to a stop the truck shudders from the rear. I tried stopping hard in reverse and the is no shudder. My limited slip has not been working all winter. When the wheels are slowing the truck(under braking or engine) there is a whine or gear noise of some kind. They will be taking the rear dif cover off to investigate. anyone else with similar problems?

James

 

If they are replacing the u joint because of a shudder when you stop I think they are looking in the wrong area. A tight u joint will shudder or squeak on accel, not usually on decel.
FWIW one of my old Fords ate rear u joints. One every 25k or so. But I plowed with that truck.

 

It did start to squeak just last night. The dealer looked at the truck this morning. I think there is something wrong in the dif. I drive around in a tight circle 5 times on dirt and the inside tire did not turn a stone.

James

 

That's exactly what mine did when it started to go...squeak and shudder on take off, and a BAD shudder when slowing.

by the way I have had all 3 u-joints in the driveshaft replaced now. middle one at 53,000 and the front and rear at 59,000

 

Ya'll can count me in on the bad U-Joints. Mine shudders bad on braking. I got under my truck today after I got home for lunch and I grabbed ahold of the rearmost joint and it was so hot I got a blister. I got a heat gun and read the temp. and it showed about 175 degrees, the front most joint (regular cab just 2 joints) read about 85 degrees. Oh and I am on my 4th power steering pump, and now the A/C quit for the second time. I got another trip to the dealer in order. Oh and I only have 39,000 miles.
Kyle Swanner

 

I have also had all u-joints changed by the dealer. Shuddered real bad on decelleration. Truck just turned 25,000. I hope this isint going to be a recurring problem...

Cat Cracker

 

Ive had the center joint replaced at 55k and now I have another one going out again at 65k... the dealer is going to replace the other two this time... So all three will be close to new...

I will look at the joints this time when they take them out to see if the needle bearings are dry..


Cheap joints!!!? Bad Grease!!!!? To much torque??

 

The shudder is gone with the new U-joints installed.

James

 

James, have any post mortem on those old u-joints? no grease, cheap, ran hard put away wet? Were the old ones replaced with similar new ones?

I guess the good news is that the dealers replace them, but do the replacements have zerks? I'd like to be able to give them a squirt at every oil change to ensure they're lubed properly.

 

I noticed that a lot of the trucks listed above with u-joint troubles appear to be 6 speeds. I wonder if it is related to shock loading of the drivetrain. Personally I'd rather be replacing u-joints than clutches, so I don't slip the clutch that much if any at all. I figure everyone else must have the same logic too.

 

had the rearone on the driveline replaced then had both frontwheel ones replaced 78000.00 KM., and it's an automatic

 

My truck was vibrating and shacking with the bad joints .. I looked at the old joints and they had no grease at all left in them and the needle bearings were toasted and they were all rusty and dry powder.... The new joints are non greasable and are the same as oem.

 

THe dealer put in after market joints, haven't check to see if they have grease fittings or not.

James

 

I looked at the first one they replaced on mine and it had a dried up almost plastic chunk of grease blocking one of the ears on the joint. that ear was rusted and totally dry.