3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Switched to Amsoil, now I need to go back. Is that ok?

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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 07:36 PM
  #16  
BRayls's Avatar
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From: kokomo, IN
Originally Posted by Hounddog
I have been told and read numerous posts over time that the Group 4 synthetics like Amsoil/Royal Purple etc.will easly go 15k and more with bypass filtering.
yes that is true, and it does and more.
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 09:27 PM
  #17  
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From: Where hell freezes over.
Originally Posted by Hounddog
I have been told and read numerous posts over time that the Group 4 synthetics like Amsoil/Royal Purple etc.will easly go 15k and more with bypass filtering.

You can do the same thing with conventional oils and save even more money.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 02:27 PM
  #18  
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From: Forest Grove, Oregon
No matter what oil you use conventional or synthetic if you plan to run your oil past 7,500 miles get a UOA. With out a UOA you have no way to know for sure how well the oil is holding up in your engine and how you use/drive it. Even though the 5w30 HHD oil I use holds up well in my truck doesn't mean it will hold up the same in yours.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 04:47 PM
  #19  
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From: Where hell freezes over.
Originally Posted by Hounddog
Well here is a world of info. www.bobistheoilguy.com Lots of reading!
I agree, I've been there lots of times, really good info.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 06:18 PM
  #20  
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by Dieselnick
When you do your oil change plug the block heater in to keep the engine warm. That way you can get more of the amsoil out. Then maybe go early on your first change with the Delo to get the rest of the residual amsoil out.

Nick
As long as I know the proper way to change oil in any vehicle is to warm up motor to normal operating temperature then, drop oil.

This way oil flows best, drains great, and you are sure must of the contaminants are not left in motor.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 07:46 PM
  #21  
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From: S. Oregon
If you start with a warm engine, plug in the block heater, pull the plug and let it drain overnight or until it stops dripping you will get MORE of the old oil/contaminants out.

Nick
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 03:52 PM
  #22  
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From: metroplex Tx
I have 80k (or just under) on my Amsoil 15-40. I don't understand the too expensive thing.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 12:52 PM
  #23  
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From: Forest Grove, Oregon
Originally Posted by dspencer
I have 80k (or just under) on my Amsoil 15-40. I don't understand the too expensive thing.
Some people are having a shortage of $$ so they have to cut back on some things and this person choses to cut back on what he pays for oil.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 02:23 PM
  #24  
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From: kokomo, IN
Originally Posted by DBLR
Some people are having a shortage of $$ so they have to cut back on some things and this person choses to cut back on what he pays for oil.
point was he will change the dino oil more often offsetting the savings.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 09:57 PM
  #25  
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From: NE Illinois
I don't know how cold it is where you live but with these subzero nights we have been having I kind of like the peace of mind a synthetic offers. Try pouring your jug of Delo when it is 0 degrees and see how fast it comes out.

An alternative to Amsoil that is cheaper would be Schaeffer's 9000 5w-40 at $16/gal. Costs roughly only 20 bucks per oilchange more than a namebrand conventional , yet you are getting one of the best diesel oils on the market. I am running this in our Jetta TDI, my Dodge Cummins, farm machinery, and all UOAs have been tremendous. Just a thought.

Also, since it appears you are a farmer, that means you can get an Amsoil Commericial Acct. which will save you considerably more than even a preferred account. I have had the commercial acct for a couple years and it really saves the bucks. I use Amsoil's gear lubes in everything and the Tractor Fluid in my Deere utility that I feed round bales with every cold morning. No more having to let her warm up for 20 mins.
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