I've had my 3rd "Common Fail" engine go in the last 12 months. I'm not going to get into what happened, but bottom line is that with all the recent blow-by and ring issues that have been popping up, I'm not going to rebuild this one again.

SO, I'm looking at swapping in a 12v or 24v with 350-400hp of RELIABLE power into my 2006 6 speed Mega Cab.

Has this been done yet? If so, who and is there any documentation on it?

What kind of problems am I going to run into with the swap?

I'm assuming I'll have to leave the computer in the truck(mounted to firewall) to run some of the aux equipment.

The list I've come up with is:
Gauges - speedometer and tach
- fuel level should still work, oil pressure is useless anyway, battery voltage should still work
- will coolant temp still work?

ABS - I'm assuming it will not work, ideas?

Throttle - will have to be changed out for the cable type.

Overhead mileage etc. - won't work, but I'm not concerned about it.

4x4 selector - will it still operate?

Backup lights - will they still come on in reverse?

HVAC system - selectors etc, will they still work?

AC - will the button turn the clutch on still?

Heated seats - any issues?

Charging system(alternator, etc) - will it still work, and does it need the computer to adjust voltage etc?

Grid heater/Glow plugs - is this an issue?

Fuel pump(lift pump) - will I have to rewire it in order for it to stay operational? Will this lift pump work with the older engines?


Any and all info is appreciated. Thanks very much.

 

more trouble then its worth went there with my 03 and a 12v

 

I have same truck and thought about this too. But i do not know enough about the ecm yet. However, since the gages work when the key is on then I would think everything in the cluster might work. The tach is a separate pickup on the engine. Temps and pressures could read off the 12 valve. Coast downhill with the engine off and the key on does speedo work?

the engine would start because the ecm has to crank it without the position sensors working to establish position. A 12 valve will start in about 1/2 a revolution.

Obviously no injector harness connection, no rail pressure sensors. Foot pedal sensor not reading to ecm might keep it from starting (cranking)

No cruise control.

The existing accelerator pedal could be used if a LVDT was hooked up to move the linkage on the pump. (don't wire it through the ecm)

Manual trans might be easier to do.

Start making a list of ecm inputs that would be gone
Throttle pedal position
Rail Pressure
Crank position
Cam position

And list ecm outputs that would go nowhere
Injector harmess
Rail pressure control
fan clutch

list ecm inputs that can stay
oil press
temp
air intake temp
air manifold temp (do we have this one?)
abs, wheel and ring gear inputs
Keep the grid heater
alternator wiring
air cond comp wiring

Take it from there!

 

do a search i already went thru this on my 03 p pump would be easier. pcm and ecm control way more then you think

 

For all the work that this sounds like it will be, much less the legal question of whether you can do it, a real good question is why you've lost 3 engines. The CR can't be that bad- there are too many of them out there.

 

So the engine in your truck has been rebuilt twice??

 

I'm in Canada, there's no legal issues with swapping engines as far as I know. If there is, I'm not going to worry myself with them, I'll take it to court if need be - if I can't modify my truck the way I want, I'll deal with that side of things.

I don't want to get into why the engines wrecked in this forum, I'm trying to streamline things and keep on topic. Bottom line, 1st and 2nd engines lunched rings, this engine hasn't been torn down yet, but is doing the same thing.

ETN550, I appreciate your list and input, others, please keep them coming, it's not going to be easy, or cheap, but in the end I'll have a reliable truck out of the deal.

Anyone have any inputs on gauges, ABS, 4x4 selector, A/C, Alternator etc?

Rich, I've searched, but couldn't come up with anything on the subject, could you possibly point me in the right direction? Thanks!

 

Check out Destroked.com

 

12v all the way and will be easier, going w/ a VP pump truck is going backward, Ive had all 3 pumped trucks except a VE. And if I could Id have a 12v in every truck, will make much more realiable power and will run of anything that will burn, and no pump to go out, or injector to hang and take out a engine out. And everything about them is cheap. Hell even if for some random reason you blow up a 12v you can buy a good used running one for the price thats less than a couple of injectors for a common rail.

 

hey pliny i wanna where you can find a good 12v for less the 1500. checking out the conversion sites will help some along with the conversion forums in these sites. i answered some of your questions on the other site. you mite look into p-pumping the current motor therse a guy who did it not sure what you will lose as far as electrical stuff. the guy who has the kit is out of indiana. your gonna spend about 3 to5k on the conversion plus time down. took use about 2 months. it can be done just that you will lose some things

 

Check forum classifieds, Ive picked two up complete for 1000 and 1200 and the one for 1200 was a 215hp engine.

 

rich, I have the exact same truck. 2004 with 12v in it. How did you get the AC to work? if we jump the relay it will work but can't figure out how to fix the issue so that the compressor wouldn't be running all of the time. I want to be able to use the relay.