Okay folks, its a two part question"
1). Anybody have a line on Factory Service Manuals? I see many on eBay but they all claim to be third party or copies of CD-Rom's, I have no problem with CD-Rom's, even a copy, just want the real thing from DCX and can't seem to find one. Anybody use these (third party) CD's, do they contain all the info I think I will need? They are pretty cheap.

2). Been reading some of the posts about fuel filter changes, seems alot of folks are having trouble starting afterwards. This is the reason I want the manual, I want to avoid the non-start problems. Anybody have any pointers on how to do this effectively? This will probably raise some eyebrows but I will be honest... I have not done this yet and I have almost 23k miles , now I know better after reading some of the posts. Go ahead and fire away at me, I deserve it, just another reason to keep donating and reading this board, you never know what you may learn.

 

I change mine every 15K. Some have said in the past to drain the pod which the filter sits in. I just unscrew the the top pop out the old filter and stick in a new one and replace the O ring.. My truck fires right up. I have the auto.....

 

Personally, I'm not a big fan of buying illegal copies of stuff. I think Geno's sells them for less than DC, and I'm sure if they are selling them they are legal.

On the fuel filter change, I think most of the people with hard starts were 2nd gens.

For ours, put a jug under the hose, open the drain and let it drain. Then use a socket to unthread the lid. The lid will pull up with some resistance, since clips on the underside grab the filter.

Be very careful not to get any dirt into the canister. Wipe any gunk off the water sensor with a clean, lint free cloth. Then pull the old filter off the lid, wet the new O ring and replace the old one, clip on the new filter.

Put the filter and lid back on, and do not over tighten. Book says 25 ft/lbs. Close the drain.

Turn the key on, and bump it to start briefly (so the engine does not start) and return to the on position. This will cause the lift pump to run for around 30 seconds. I can hear mine.... Check for leaks, turn the key off, then start as usual.

Mine always fires right up, but I usually change the filter with the engine warm just in case...

 

I change mine every 15k . I drain the bowl and wipe it out clean. Put the filter in close the drain valve.Tighten the lid. Turn the key on- lift pump fills canister then it starts up every time. Unless the lift pump is bad I dont see ever having a problem.