I know this has been discussed but I haven't had any luck searching the threads. The deal is lately its been hard getting the truck in second gear after a stop. Fluid level was changed at 25k with penzoil sychromech and is at the right level. I thought I read that it might have something to do with the hydro clutch cylinder but I'm clueless. Anyone got any insight on why this thing does not want to go in gear?? I only have maybe 20k on the clutch and not been racing or pulling or towing heavy.

 

I have found that if I go to the left and right with the shifter a couple of times that it drops right into second gear easily. Since it got colder out it seems that it takes a bit more effort to get it in there the first time....

 

Might be pilot bearing going out. Does it shift OK else?

Pilot bearing went on mine, would shut the engine off, shift it into gear, start it up and drive.

 

Ive been saying that exact same thing ever sense i changed my clutch to the SB con fe 3 weeks ago or so. Today i decided to fine tune the new hydro linkage some, adj'ed to make the rod 1 1/2 turns longer. This helped a lot! Then i decided to make my own wieghted shift **** today, and man what a differance it makes!! I had some 2" stock laying around and went to a friends today that has a lathe, its prob. a little heavy at just under 3 lbs. but WOW!! I sugg. anyone with a standard tranny to do this or better yet buy one from the guy on here that now makes and sells them. ***** 53 i believe is his handle. Seems like his is 2.2 lbs thats prob. better mine feels a little big and i dont want any premature ware on the shifter forks if this is possable. Trust me it would be worth buying his product, lathe work is slow, but i had the time today and really enjoyed the project!!

 

Mine did the same thing and it was the stock hydraulics slowly going out. I replaced them with the South Bend parts and the difference was huge. I don't have any problems sliding into gear now. I was having a rough time with 2nd and reverse but this has been solved.

 

Thats the same issue I'm having, how much does the South Bend parts cost? What parts are needed and how hard is it to install??

 

200-250.00 adjustable, and easy to install.

 

Stock600, did you have your flywheel machined and did you go with the upgraded pilot bearing?
My OFE and pilot bearing just arrived at the house and I'm trying to put together a game plan for getting the flywheel done so it doesn't hold me up more than a day.
BTW, I'm in Iraq so I can't call any machine shops for quotes just yet. I'd just like an idea of what they will need as far as time and instruction to do the job.

 

It took less than an hour to install the South Bend parts. They'll sealed from the factory and all you do it remove the old parts and slide the new master and slave cylinder into place. The only thing that you really need to make sure you do is save the rubber washer that seals the part to the firewall from the factory parts and use them with the South Bend stuff. South Bend's instructions say you might need it - you do. The hydraulic assembly twists into place but has a tendancy to untwist without the rubber washer. It was a very simple install. I bought them direct from SBC and I think they were around $250

 

leonesm mine to said use the gasket if needed, but my new one already had one on it to. So with both i couldnt get it to twist in {to thick] so ended uo just using the part just as it came from south bend. -- Super Dave no i didnt even remove the F.W. i called sb and told them the F.W. literally looked as if it was brand new what to do, he said run it with no prob. and on the P.B. same thing put a little grease in it and went on. Since a little more adj. everythings working fine. P.S. if your F.W. looks worn or has colored spots on it from being overheated, def. remove it and have the machine work done. MO

 

When I purchased the parts from South Bend it didn't have the rubber washer attached. I didn't put it on at first and it was fine for about two weeks and then my clutch pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had to go back and add the rubber washer. Not a big deal, just something to pay attention to during the install.

 

10-4 it went to the floor i guess because the M.C. turned a little and you shoved it through the firewall with the clutch pedal. Correct . Thought the little adj i made to it 1 1/2 turns longer had it back great but after driving a lot today its still tuff to get in gear right after a stop like at a light or stop sign. I will try another turn or so, im thinking if you go to far the clutch may not fully release?? It was starting to roll right about the center of the travel now its about 2/3 at the top. Whats ya think??

 

Thanks guys for all the good info, at least I know what I can do to solve this problem. Looks like I will be getting the hydrolic upgrade, I'll let you know how it works when its done..

 

YA def. get the hydro upgrade you need the adjustability that it will give you that the stocker dont have. Good Luck!

 

I just barely have to push my pedal in and the clutch releases. You shouldn't be halfway down or your adjustment is still off.....