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Runaway truck, cruise control stuck on accelerate

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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 08:14 PM
  #16  
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From: Claxton, GA
First I have ever heard of this on a 5.9. Only other one was on a 6.7. It does sound like an APPS problem. My 01' Dodge Durango has done it though. The problem was a short underhood somewhere between the under hood fuse box and the firewall. Just ran two new wires. Voltage was coming over from the washer motor. Dealer thought I was smoking dope when I told him you can press the rear washer wiper fluid switch and the truck would idle up. I had it take off on me a couple of times. I just hit the off button on the cruise and that took care of it. Mashing the brake didn't work either. Funny thing was it would work fine for 10-30 min. and then take off. Nobody could fix the dang thing. I had to help my local tech fix it after another dealer didn't seem to want my help, just my companies lease plan money cause it is a company truck. It's got over 200,000 miles on it now.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 08:48 PM
  #17  
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My 03 has also refused to disengage cruise a few times
with just hitting the brakes. I've had to use the off switch on the steering wheel.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 09:43 PM
  #18  
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my truck has "ran away" a few times but im sure it had something to do with the older "crazy larry" tune. IF there is a next time....turn the ignition off for a few seconds and then start it back up while rolling. that fixed mine evertime. then you can keep moving without pulling over...slowing down...starting it back up for power steering and proper braking. the first time it ran away...it shot me up to 90mph on a busy city street..scared me to death!
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 10:37 PM
  #19  
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Guys turning off the key on a mountain road is an invitation to turn it too far and lock the steering and then it is a short trip to the ditch and maybe a longer one to the bottom of a ravine.

Other then turning off the cruise control and if the brake does not work then use the clutch there is rpm sensing to disengage the cruise on manual transmissions.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 10:56 PM
  #20  
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Glad you're ok and I hate it that you want to get rid of your truck over this but I understand your concern and frustration. I can tell you though that I've seen and heard of this same problem with other manufactures. I had it happen to me on a Ford product one time so selling your truck isn't a garauntee by any means.Like the saying goes , if it's man made it can and will break!
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:07 PM
  #21  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by CamperAndy
Guys turning off the key on a mountain road is an invitation to turn it too far and lock the steering and then it is a short trip to the ditch and maybe a longer one to the bottom of a ravine.

Other then turning off the cruise control and if the brake does not work then use the clutch there is rpm sensing to disengage the cruise on manual transmissions.
You're so correct, for everyone that doesn't know the location where this happened, here's some info. The Glenwood Canyon it's amazingly tight. It's so tight that the Eastbound lanes are suspended above the Westbound for much of the canyon. Here's some pics, this is about where I was reaching max speed. -





Here's the tunnel I had just exited when the truck took off. Notice the lack of a shoulder on either side. -





By the time I realized the throttle was stuck wide-opened I was over 70 MPH and having to avoid a semi. Shutting the truck off with the key would result is loosing steering at over 75 MPH on a road that is not anywhere near straight. I considered pushing the clutch in and like I said, was worried about the motor continuing to rev high. If the stomping the brake pedal didn't stop it and turning the cruise control didn't stop it, I didn't think pushing in the clutch pedal would have stopped the full throttle acceleration.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:26 PM
  #22  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by Spooler
First I have ever heard of this on a 5.9. Only other one was on a 6.7. It does sound like an APPS problem. My 01' Dodge Durango has done it though. The problem was a short underhood somewhere between the under hood fuse box and the firewall. Just ran two new wires. Voltage was coming over from the washer motor. Dealer thought I was smoking dope when I told him you can press the rear washer wiper fluid switch and the truck would idle up. I had it take off on me a couple of times. I just hit the off button on the cruise and that took care of it. Mashing the brake didn't work either. Funny thing was it would work fine for 10-30 min. and then take off. Nobody could fix the dang thing. I had to help my local tech fix it after another dealer didn't seem to want my help, just my companies lease plan money cause it is a company truck. It's got over 200,000 miles on it now.
That's quite interesting, good to know it was a simple fix in your case. I just heard another guy on a different forum had the same problem happen to him on a 2nd Gen Dodge, except he had a 20,000# load and was driving down a steep canyon in UT.


Originally Posted by Super Googan
My 03 has also refused to disengage cruise a few times
with just hitting the brakes. I've had to use the off switch on the steering wheel.
Yeah, it's not a good feeling.


Originally Posted by solostyle1
my truck has "ran away" a few times but im sure it had something to do with the older "crazy larry" tune. IF there is a next time....turn the ignition off for a few seconds and then start it back up while rolling. that fixed mine evertime. then you can keep moving without pulling over...slowing down...starting it back up for power steering and proper braking. the first time it ran away...it shot me up to 90mph on a busy city street..scared me to death!
I would have, but honestly shutting it down at 75+ in a canyon would have had a worse outcome than what happened. Crazy to hear that others have had the same problem.


Originally Posted by hivoltage
Glad you're ok and I hate it that you want to get rid of your truck over this but I understand your concern and frustration. I can tell you though that I've seen and heard of this same problem with other manufactures. I had it happen to me on a Ford product one time so selling your truck isn't a garauntee by any means.Like the saying goes , if it's man made it can and will break!
Honestly this truck should probably fall under the lemon law. We've had so many issues with it in the first year of ownership, this is just the final straw. I understand what you're saying, but at this point I wish I had my '98 back.

Here's a list of what I've dealt with in the last year; Wipers stopping mid-window requiring wiper assembly replacement, low engine power and engine dieing requiring expensive diagnosis (this happened on a drive to Wisconsin ) & valve adjustment, A/C freezing up and not working (still does it), 3 lift pumps going out (usually at the worst time, trailer in tow, out of state), power steering pump issues, fuel leak spraying diesel all over the engine compartment (aftermarket gauge install poorly done), brakes w/ no squealer so it's metal to metal right away w/o warning, shifter breaking off in transmission (BD short throw shifter) and now a run away truck.

Yes some of the problems are aftermarket parts or wear items, but it's just been a bit too much. My '98 and '99 never had problems like this. That's what makes me want to dump this truck.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:53 PM
  #23  
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From: Oklahoma
pushing in clutch would have immediately stopped runaway. you probably would have shelled the motor... but what's more important your motor or your safety?

installing a cable controlled shut-off valve would give you back peace of mind.

Originally Posted by Greg@RME

I considered pushing the clutch in and like I said, was worried about the motor continuing to rev high. If the stomping the brake pedal didn't stop it and turning the cruise control didn't stop it, I didn't think pushing in the clutch pedal would have stopped the full throttle acceleration.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #24  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by 2500
pushing in clutch would have immediately stopped runaway. you probably would have shelled the motor... but what's more important your motor or your safety?

installing a cable controlled shut-off valve would give you back peace of mind.
I really didn't have that much time to ponder the situation, it was a tad bit intense. But you're right, by the time I really started weighing my options of getting it stopped no matter what, the ride was over. The truck was accelerating out of control, but I had room to run and was maintaining the speed somewhat well. I did what I could with the truck and it remained somewhat controlled.

Not a bad idea on the shut-off valve, but I'm taking the truck to the dealer tomorrow. I'm going to have them pull the driving history off the ECM, make sure I get my own copy, then see if my engine ECU needs a reflash. I'd rather have the problem fixed correctly, if they're able to diagnose it.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 07:11 AM
  #25  
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after a super scary event like what you've just been through.... don't think I'd be able to trust the electronics again... flash or no re-flash.

I'd want some type of failsafe backup... be it a cable and/or kill switch.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 04:09 PM
  #26  
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From: Auburn, WA
Shoot, I run 80 thru the canyon every day! j/k
Glad you got it shut down. 2 trips thru the canyon daily for me is intense enough itself. Scares me every time I pass a truck with a load strapped down to the trailer. Seems someone rolls a semi or loses their load every few months in there.
I'll be working in Vail in 2 weeks. Not gonna miss the drive.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CamperAndy
Guys turning off the key on a mountain road is an invitation to turn it too far and lock the steering and then it is a short trip to the ditch and maybe a longer one to the bottom of a ravine.

Other then turning off the cruise control and if the brake does not work then use the clutch there is rpm sensing to disengage the cruise on manual transmissions.
Just to give you peace of mind . . . the wheel will not lock unless it's in Park. You can't turn the key past "off" when the truck is in gear. It's a mechanical fail safe, not electronic.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 04:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Greg@RME
That's quite interesting, good to know it was a simple fix in your case. I just heard another guy on a different forum had the same problem happen to him on a 2nd Gen Dodge, except he had a 20,000# load and was driving down a steep canyon in UT.




Yeah, it's not a good feeling.




I would have, but honestly shutting it down at 75+ in a canyon would have had a worse outcome than what happened. Crazy to hear that others have had the same problem.




Honestly this truck should probably fall under the lemon law. We've had so many issues with it in the first year of ownership, this is just the final straw. I understand what you're saying, but at this point I wish I had my '98 back.

Here's a list of what I've dealt with in the last year; Wipers stopping mid-window requiring wiper assembly replacement, low engine power and engine dieing requiring expensive diagnosis (this happened on a drive to Wisconsin ) & valve adjustment, A/C freezing up and not working (still does it), 3 lift pumps going out (usually at the worst time, trailer in tow, out of state), power steering pump issues, fuel leak spraying diesel all over the engine compartment (aftermarket gauge install poorly done), brakes w/ no squealer so it's metal to metal right away w/o warning, shifter breaking off in transmission (BD short throw shifter) and now a run away truck.

Yes some of the problems are aftermarket parts or wear items, but it's just been a bit too much. My '98 and '99 never had problems like this. That's what makes me want to dump this truck.
Again, while I realise your frustration and concern with your truck accelerating the way it did, I don't think it is realistic to expect to "Lemon Law" a 5+ year old truck with how many miles on it? Of course it is going to have issues here and there, it is a Used truck, it's a machine made by man and it will break some time. Also issues like a fuel leak on an aftermarket gauge install clearly has nothing to do with Dodge and is no indication of the quality of their product.

As far as preventing acceleration I would just hit the clutch, likely the engine would not rev past governed speed even WOT in neutral.

I hope you get your truck sorted out but I think you need to look at the situation a little bit more objectively.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 04:49 PM
  #29  
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glad to hear your ok and the other people who share the road are as well.

all i see is the incident being talked about. how, what and when it happens again.

has the truck been to the dealer to be worked on? if so did they perform the reprogram? did this rectify the problem? and if the truck hasn't been serviced, why not?
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 06:07 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BMH95
Just to give you peace of mind . . . the wheel will not lock unless it's in Park. You can't turn the key past "off" when the truck is in gear. It's a mechanical fail safe, not electronic.

There is NO PARK on a manual transmission but it is piece of mind for us auto drivers.
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