3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

RPM not Working

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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 10:06 PM
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ramoszx12r's Avatar
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From: Caneys Point NJ
RPM not Working

Hey guys my 2006 Ram2500 6.9 diesel, RPM is either not work or is way off on the low side. Is any one knows we're the signal is pick up from or what may be the proble. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 11:54 PM
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From: Live Oak Texas
A little research here will show it is a very common problem with the 06's. Mine does it too but only at idle. Others stop working all together and some are just way off all the time. The fix is a new stepper motor from the dealer or send it to a place in Canada that fixes them.

search tach or rpm gauge and you will have lots of reading.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 02:28 AM
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ramoszx12r's Avatar
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From: Caneys Point NJ
Originally Posted by rockcrawler304
A little research here will show it is a very common problem with the 06's. Mine does it too but only at idle. Others stop working all together and some are just way off all the time. The fix is a new stepper motor from the dealer or send it to a place in Canada that fixes them.

search tach or rpm gauge and you will have lots of reading.
Thanks I will
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 04:00 PM
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From: Alberta
Originally Posted by ramoszx12r
Hey guys my 2006 Ram2500 6.9 diesel, RPM is either not work or is way off on the low side. Is any one knows we're the signal is pick up from or what may be the proble. Thanks in advance.
Or more likely, pull the cluster and resolder some circuit connections. Most of them are due to the printed circuit board being stressed, slightly curved by the mounting arrangement. Part of the fix is to shim a couple of mounts to remove the curve (stress) on the board. Read the forum and you'll find out about this.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
This test will detect if cluster is your problem, dealership have exchange program for cluster, they will need your current mileage to be programed into replacement cluster.

1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the VFD unit and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM over the CAN data bus during the test.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:11 PM
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From: Caneys Point NJ
Originally Posted by BigIron70
This test will detect if cluster is your problem, dealership have exchange program for cluster, they will need your current mileage to be programed into replacement cluster.

1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the VFD unit and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM over the CAN data bus during the test.

Thnks i will try that.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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From: Caneys Point NJ
I found some morer info tha I wanted to share. Also thanks for all the input, I am going to do it this weekend and will report back.


I will answer your first questions first before we get to the rest - just for teaching sake between us chickens. The APPS is the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. It is the same as a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) in a gas engine. To calibrate it, disconnect both negative battery cables for a few hours. You need to discharge the capacitors and there are different opinions about how long it takes. To be safe, I just leave them disconnected overnight. In the morning, I reconnect the cables and hop in the truck. Turn the ignition switch to run (don't start truck) and slowly push accelerator to the floor and back. By slowly, I don't mean 5 minutes slowly but I took about 15 or 20 seconds to get pedal to the floor and then release at the same rate. I then turned the ignition switch to the off position. Let it sit for a few seconds and fired it up. For me - Bob's your uncle, surging problem solved. At some point I am going to need a new APP and I will get one from Timbo (dude on this board) as they last longer than dealer or parts store APPS.
Given that the TC lockup switch solves your problems, you quite likely have found your problem BUT I will defer to the opinions of one of the tranny gurus.

BTW - no need to apologize for being a noob. I was there a little over a year ago. I have tried to be polite and ask questions and the folks here have taught me a lot. Some grumpy, pushy or arrogant folks didn't get much help and don't hang around here much any more.
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