I'm considering replacing the stock torque converter on my '03 (48RE). I've read that Goerend and Precision Industires (and others) make an outstanding product. And, since you get what you pay for, their prices are quite high. Are there other reputable converters priced in, say, the ~$500 area that would suit me?

I have no desire to BOMB my truck to get 1000 ft-lbs or 600+ hp. Based on what I used the truck for, I feel it has adequate power - it's just not getting that power to the pavement. I pull a 19' camp trailer (4500 lbs) about 12-15 times a year with an additional 1000-1500 lbs worth of extra gear in the bed. That's about it. I'm not lugging around a 15,000 lb trailer or anything like that.

Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

you might want to contact dunrite convertors they make a nice single disk.

 

From another member. (RonP) I followed this path and I've been real happy w/ the results. Total cost about $530. The converter is only about $400.

"Hey guys, here is a post from someone else on another board. I just cut and pasted here. These are the exact parts I used, minus the convertor. I have heard nothing but good things about this convertor and plan on doing that in the next few months. The price is great.

Below is the upgrade package I use for upgrade of the 48RE, especially with heavy towing or performance upgrades. This setup has performed flawlessly on over 200 transmissions in HD diesel Rams.

Valve Body/Torque Convertor upgrades for 48RE transmission:

Parts required – Superior VB Kit (99-up A500/618), Superior part # K500-618-L
Sonnax Pressure Regulator Valve, Sonnax #22771-A-02K
Sonnax Manual Valve, Sonnax #22771-09
Sonnax 4-Spool Convertor Valve, Sonnax #22771A-01
ATC/Repco Torque Convertor, ATC/Repko #CR70X-S1

Installation:

1 – Install VB kit as per instructions, with the following exceptions:

a – Do not drill the Pressure Regulator valve wall as directed – install
Sonnax Pressure Regulator.

b – Do not drill the valve body casting for the manual valve supplied with
the kit – install Sonnax Manual Valve.

c – Replace 4-Spool Lockup Valve with Sonnax 4-Spool Convertor valve.

d – Line pressure setting using the blue spring is set with the aluminum
gauge provided that is also used to measure cut for the throttle valve.
Set the stop halfway to max for use with the heavy duty S1 convertor.
Not necessary to ramp line pressure to the max setting.

2 – Remove the cooler line check valve; Sonnax PR valve moves check valve into
VB. Original check valve is in one of the cooler lines at metal/rubber connection at the fender well, and is part of the coupler.

3 – Replace stock Torque Convertor with ATC/Repco convertor.

The Superior VB kit and Sonnax valve set works extremely well on all model RWD/OD Dodges.

1 – Keeps the TC charged at full throttle and fluid flow at max.
2 – Allows for extended idle in Park by allowing for full fluid circulation, unlike
the stock setup.
3 – These modifications are highly recommended with any rebuild and are perfect
for the lower stall S1 convertor, and work extremely well for lockup.

Call Bobby at AXIOM in Charlotte NC (800) 633-3340 to order parts – total parts cost minus shipping and core was less than $600.00

I will write up a little more in detail about how the procedure went. I don't have any pics, not because I didn't take any, but because my dang camera lost it all for some reason before I downloaded it.

I bought just the 3 valves and the shift correction kit and I think it was about 130.00 shipping included. I love the way the truck shifts now. been running strong for over a week and it has been great. I want to see how it does this weekend with the race car and enclosed trailer behind it.

I will try to write some things up in the next couple days. The big thing was to take your time. I also had printed out pages from my electronic manual showing the valve body broken down. I followed the instructions to the "T" except for drilling the valvebody casting. The replacement valves took care of that. Made it easy. I did enlarge the appropriate holes in the separator plate though. I was told you don't have to but it will shift harder and firmer if you do and that is what I wanted.

hope this helps."

 

Truthfully, in my opinion(which isn't worth much), I wouldn't touch it. For the light loads you are pulling the stock convertor should really be pretty good.