Rear seal on front diff?
Rear seal on front diff?
Just changed the oil at 34,000 and noticed seepage from the back of my front differential - looked like from the seal where the driveshaft goes in. I had changed out the front diff oil at 21,000 and was wondering if this leak had me low now. Suprise! when I pulled the plug I found that I was OVER filled. So I just let 2 or 3 oz of oil dribble out to get me filled level with the plug.
Am I seeping oil out the back because I overfilled? or should there be a seal there and it's failed? Any ideas?
Am I seeping oil out the back because I overfilled? or should there be a seal there and it's failed? Any ideas?
It's possible that the overfull condition aggravated the situation. If it's not pouring out the pinion seal, but just seeping, I would just clean the area and monitor it for awhile. I would check too that the vent isn't plugged.
I think I figured out how I overfilled... rear wheels must've been outside my garage when filling, giving me about 1 1/2" of tilt backward. I'm sure I only filled it to the fill hole. When I checked it today all 4 wheels were in the garage - eg level.
I'll just keep an eye on that seal. But I figure it's a warranty repair on the way to happening
I'll just keep an eye on that seal. But I figure it's a warranty repair on the way to happening
Originally Posted by RonP
Going in Tues for a pinion seal.
Hope it doesn't come back worse.
Hope it doesn't come back worse.
I had the rear diff pinion seal replaced under warranty and now the front needs to be replaced. Not real impressed with that, but the axles are stout so I'll let the first set slide without gripe.
I happened to be under my truck and saw something that caught my eye. I had some sort of oil coming down by my front pinion seal. The funny thing is, it was trickling down towards the bell and nothing showed towards the rear? I mean, if I was moving forward, why wasn't there a spray to be found going to the back? The dealer looked @ it and said they wouldn't be able to replace it under warranty because it was not a full blown leak (slung all over the place). The tech said that to replace it, DC would only allow warranty if it was really leaking good. Well, I got thinking that maybe the blow by was whirrled around and some how was just hitting the flange that is on this thing. I extended the blow by hose and to my surprise, I have not had the dribble effect. (I did check the level and she's full) Coincedence? Don't know, but not a single drop any more. I do notice some little splats now on the rear axle. Was it my blow by? Starting to think it was. On a last note, I had NO spots on the driveway or in the garage.
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Hoping the leak won't be worse.
I thought about the blow-by also. They actually told me that is what it was. It was real close to the 36,000 mark. So, I decided to extend the hose and I had to make a trip up north, and there it was. The oil is coming out around the flange and running down towards the front following the shape of the diff. They tried to tell me it would be 100.00 deduct now but I said no way. They looked at it before the 36,000 mark and they said it was nothing and now it is something so there is no charge.
I thought about the blow-by also. They actually told me that is what it was. It was real close to the 36,000 mark. So, I decided to extend the hose and I had to make a trip up north, and there it was. The oil is coming out around the flange and running down towards the front following the shape of the diff. They tried to tell me it would be 100.00 deduct now but I said no way. They looked at it before the 36,000 mark and they said it was nothing and now it is something so there is no charge.
crud... I thought I had a 7/70 and wasn't thinking much about the 36,000 mark. Sounds like deductables kick in at 36,000? ...better check my paperwork again.
(on edit) ran to the dealership at lunch and yes I do have a deductable starting soon. He suggested I clean it up and tie something on the end of the blow-by to be sure of the source. He also said he'd do the warranty work if the seal leaked any oil at all.
(on edit) ran to the dealership at lunch and yes I do have a deductable starting soon. He suggested I clean it up and tie something on the end of the blow-by to be sure of the source. He also said he'd do the warranty work if the seal leaked any oil at all.
Originally Posted by Hounddog
D.C. dosen't know or care if it LEAKS/WEEPS or SEEPS! Its under warranty! They pay the claim with no issues.Cheez I think some of these guys MAKE it up as they go.
Maybe it was a good thing they didn't tear into it. Might have driven out with the good'ol talked about death-wobble or worse.
The seal is not but a hour repair or so.Some techs would have cleaned it,put a seal in it and explained about the possabilty of blow by etc.(made a nickel and kept custiomer smiling).BUT the idea to tell some one D.C. WON'T allow a repair unless its SPRAYED oil all over is absured.Thats NOT any manufactures guideline .Buddy of mine just had one done(rear)while he waited and it ran $90.00 or so parts and labor on his 03.Some of these stories from dealers or any repair shop is far out.THEY spend more time trying NOT to make money then fixing them and getting paid.In this case the tech is probably correct in his diagnois but its HIS statement that brought out my CHEZZ.
I tied a plastic bag on the blowby tube and cleaned the diff housing completely. Drove it 15 miles and there are already signs of the leak coming out of the seal right where you'd expect it if the oil was coming from inside the differential. I'm waiting for the dealer to call back with an appointment now.
What's involved in the hour or so of work mentioned? Any ideas what they could screw up?
What's involved in the hour or so of work mentioned? Any ideas what they could screw up?
same as mine was.
I just got the call back from the dealer saying mine was done. I will be watching it closely over the next few days. I am going to clean it really good after I pick it up and then drive the @#$! out of it.
My only worries are worse leak than before and bearing preload. The factory repair manual actually states that the axles should be removed and bearing preload checked with an in lb torque wrench so that when the yoke is put back on they can tighten to that same setting plus an additional 5-10 in lb I think. this is the way I do them on my race car.
the tech doing mine said he doesn't do that because it is not needed. He marks the nut and then tightens back to that spot and gives it just an extra little force. It will probably be fine, but I tend to worry about things. this guy and the dealership have treated me great in all aspects and they sponsor my race car so I believe they will make good no matter what.
good luck
I just got the call back from the dealer saying mine was done. I will be watching it closely over the next few days. I am going to clean it really good after I pick it up and then drive the @#$! out of it.
My only worries are worse leak than before and bearing preload. The factory repair manual actually states that the axles should be removed and bearing preload checked with an in lb torque wrench so that when the yoke is put back on they can tighten to that same setting plus an additional 5-10 in lb I think. this is the way I do them on my race car.
the tech doing mine said he doesn't do that because it is not needed. He marks the nut and then tightens back to that spot and gives it just an extra little force. It will probably be fine, but I tend to worry about things. this guy and the dealership have treated me great in all aspects and they sponsor my race car so I believe they will make good no matter what.
good luck


