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Questions about replacing the water pump

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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 06:25 PM
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Huntindad's Avatar
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Question Questions about replacing the water pump

Evening folks,

My water pump is dying(again) it went out at 100K and now has 160K. It was done at a shop the first time... But I think I can do it.

What tips do y'all have to replace the pump. I was gonna go to Autozone or therebouts and get one that was warranted forever.

I think the 2 bolts that hold it on are 10mm. There ain't much wiggle room from up top. Should I pull the fan shroud off first?

my truck is a 04.5 HO with 6 speed tranny. All stock.

Any do's or don'ts.

thanx,

David
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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they are two 10mm bolts on the pump. you can wiggle the pump out with out taking the fan shroud off. I did them in 15min. before. they are pertty simple and stright forward to do.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:25 AM
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
Make sure get coolant purged of air.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 01:41 AM
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My experience, the water pumps from cummins last much longer. JMHO!
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:11 AM
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Put a little loctite on the bolts when you put them back in. Blue works good for this.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 02:17 PM
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Very easy job. Toughest part will be taking off and putting back on the cerpentie belt.

JR
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 02:42 PM
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This is from the 04 manual...

WATER PUMP - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The water pump is mounted to the front of the
engine block between the automatic belt tensioner
and the fan drive pulley.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the rear
of a shaft that rotates in a bearing pressed into the
water pump body. The body has a small hole for ventilation.
The water pump seals are lubricated by
antifreeze in the coolant mixture. Additional lubrication
is not necessary.
OPERATION
The diesel engine water pump draws coolant from
the radiator outlet and circulates it through engine,
heater core and back to radiator inlet. The crankshaft
pulley drives the water pump with a serpentine
drive belt.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING—WATER PUMP
A quick test to determine if pump is working is to
check if heater warms properly. A defective water
pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant
through the long heater hose to the heater core.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove water pump mounting bolts (Fig. 49).
(5) Clean water pump sealing surface on cylinder block.

INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring seal in groove on water
pump (Fig. 50).
(2) Install water pump with the weep hole facing
downward. Tighten mounting bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(3) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
(4) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Connect both battery cables.
(6) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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thanx guys. I'm looking to get a Bosch water pump. It is supposed to be a Cummins OEM replacement.

Do I need to put some gasket goo on before the pump goes back on?

is it really necessary to pull the battery cables?

When releasing the belt tension, I need a 1/2" socket drive and turn towards the ground... I think

Oh... and how do I purge the air? I was gonna fill it up, run it a while and then top it off.

thanx again folks.
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 07:50 PM
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No you dont need any gasket goo, there will be a round black gasket that goes on the pump, fill it up and run it a bit then check it and top it off if needed
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Old Jan 13, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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87BRGN's Avatar
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Easiest water pump I've ever replaced. Took twice as long to get that dang belt back on. I removed the thermostat to fill the engine with coolant and then topped off the radiator and resevior. No problems with air bubbles that way.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:13 AM
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Remove the airbox and go in from the side there. Save you some head ache.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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Write down the path for the belt before you remove it.

Pete
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 03:10 PM
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by Huntindad
Evening folks,

My water pump is dying(again) it went out at 100K and now has 160K. It was done at a shop the first time... But I think I can do it.

What tips do y'all have to replace the pump. I was gonna go to Autozone or therebouts and get one that was warranted forever.

I think the 2 bolts that hold it on are 10mm. There ain't much wiggle room from up top. Should I pull the fan shroud off first?

my truck is a 04.5 HO with 6 speed tranny. All stock.

Any do's or don'ts.

thanx,

David
one question; what is the problem with your water pump??
i have over 200,000 miles on mine and expect another 100,000
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Johnh,

it lets lots of coolent pour out on the ground

I'd like to keep the coolent in the engine.

Coming in from the side may work.

I TRIED TO GET TO IT FROM THE TOP... I sucked.

I could not get the socket on and enough umph to remove the bolts. I do like the idea of removing the air box and hitting it from the side.

If it don't get done... I'm taking mama's car to the deer lease. Me and the boys agreed.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:37 PM
  #15  
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From: lyman, utah
and i thought the water pump was as durable as the rest of the engine
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