Originally Posted by Dr.Dizzle

Given that you recently replaced the batteries,this may be related to a loose, broken or corroded wire(solenoid)connection at one of the battery terminals. Make sure you check each wire connected to the battery terminals and make sure they are tight and clean. Check the opposite ends of each battery cable, including the grounds.

The following information is the diagnostic literature regarding the P2609 fault code. This will help you pinpoint the issue.


WHEN MONITORED
First 15 seconds of engine operation.

SET CONDITION
The ECM does not detect a voltage drop on the intake air heater circuit.

POSSIBLE CAUSES

* Intake air heater open
* Intake air heater ground open
* Open battery cable from intake air heater relay
* Battery cable open
* #1 Intake air heater relay
* #2 Intake air heater relay
* Intermittent condition

Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding.

DIAGNOSTIC TEST

1. INTAKE AIR HEATER OPEN
Measure the resistance between the intake air heater supply and ground terminal on each intake air heater.

Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?

YES: Go To 2
NO: Replace the open Intake Air Heater. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1

2. INTAKE AIR HEATER GROUND OPEN
Measure the resistance of the intake air heater ground circuit between the intake air heater terminal and the intake manifold cover ground connection.

NOTE: The intake air heater circuit is grounded through a conductive gasket on the top and bottom of the air heater (grey colored gaskets).

Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?

YES: Go To 3
NO: Repair the open Intake Air heater ground or replace both heater gaskets with the proper conductive gaskets. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1

3. OPEN BATTERY CABLE FROM INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the intake air heater and the intake air heater relay for both intake air heaters.

Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?

YES: Go To 4
NO: Repair The open or high resistance battery cable from the intake heater relay to heater. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1

4. BATTERY CABLE OPEN
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the battery and the intake air heater relay for both relays.

Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?

YES: Go To 5
NO: Replace the battery cable from the battery to the Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1

5. #1 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #1 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #1 intake air heater relay to battery positive.

Q: Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?

YES: Go To 6
NO: Replace #1 Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1

6. #2 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #2 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #2 intake air heater relay to battery positive.

Q: Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?

YES: Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure). See: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview\Diagnostic Strategies
NO: Replace #2 Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1

Originally Posted by RamGazer

Ditto, I shouldn't have typed what I did. If they did let me use it, how would I clear it? Since I've never used one before??

Originally Posted by Sur5er

Once you have the scan tool, plug it into the OBD II connector. Turn the key until you get your warning lights and stop. Follow the directions on the scanner, which should have powered up and be asking you to do something. Once you have the codes cleared, you're done. If you really, really can't get your hands on one, do the following: Make sure the key is off, open the hood, close pax doors and disconnect BOTH ground connectors from the batteries and wait 5 minutes. Reconnect and tighten both terminals and start. CEL should be out.

Originally Posted by RamGazer

What are pax doors?

Originally Posted by Sur5er

Once you have the scan tool, plug it into the OBD II connector. Turn the key until you get your warning lights and stop. Follow the directions on the scanner, which should have powered up and be asking you to do something. Once you have the codes cleared, you're done. If you really, really can't get your hands on one, do the following: Make sure the key is off, open the hood, close pax doors and disconnect BOTH ground connectors from the batteries and wait 5 minutes. Reconnect and tighten both terminals and start. CEL should be out.

Originally Posted by RamGazer

Sorry I didn't get back. The CEL was clear the next day after sitting overnight and started. Just got through driving 1,300 miles w/ no CEL in a week.