Yeah, I got that you're cheap ... but if you extended your oil change intervals to 7k - 10k miles (perfectly acceptable, read your manual), you would be able to afford the extra $5 for a Fleetguard Stratapore oil filter (recommended by Cummins) for your high dollar engine. That's just common sense, and yes you are rude.

 

Just that the third injection creates smaller particles of soot which allows it to pass through filters and color your oil.

 

Old TSB, but worth reading. Oil Filters

 

Did an oil change on my truck last night. Had been running Rotella 15w40 but took the plunge and purchased Valvoline Premium Blue. Ran the truck until the engine was at operating temperature and then let the oil drain for 30 minutes. Changed out the oil and the filter, started the truck, shut it down, checked the oil level and oil was already black.

I normally do changes every 7K but will probably run this one 5K and then change again and hope it clears up some. 42K miles on the truck and still running great!

 

Black oil is the least of my worries about my engine. My first Dodge, a ‘98.5 24V 5.9 had 317,000 miles when I sold it. Just heard the other day it’s still running strong with guy I sold it too, over two years later. Now on my current one, ’06 5.9, same black oil, just gets blacker quicker. The only time my oil is amber, was when it was being poured in! I have always used Delo 400 and a Fleetguard Stratopore filters. A few times I used Rotella 15w40 or a Baldwin filter if I couldn’t immediately find my first choices. I usually try to change my oil between 5,000 and 7,500 miles, however I did miss a change here a while back, and went about 12,000 between changes. Now that was some thick, black oil! Back before I was a member here, I got concerned about the black oil in my ‘98.5, and tried to “flush” by going thru about 5 gallons of some cheap diesel rated 15w40, then filling with Rotella. No luck, black as ever at my next 5,000 mile change. I gave up after that, just concern myself with using a quality oil and filter.

On a different note, I did witness a Fram failure in a 7.3 Powerstroke. Filter element tore apart and our ranch mechanic found paper throughout engine duing teardown. I’m not trying to fan the flames, but first-hand account. IMHO, something cheap enough to be mass-marketed at Wal-Mart isn’t good enough for my truck.

 

Well, I just drove from atlanta to Hampton Virgina and back this week, And Man I love driving this thing, never got over 70, almost 22 miles per gallon. Check the oil when I got home and it was just as sticky as ever.. And Black as coal. I would like more info on the third injection thingy, I dont think that would be the issue though, the oil was black almost as fast as it went in. I think there are Puddles of old oil trapped in the engine somewhere, either around the turbo area or head or pan... just my thoughts. I will pay attention to how much oil I use on the next couple of changes..

 

One more thing, I looked inside a new Fram Filter at Wally world, no way in heck that any paper would come loose in this thing, Theres a wall of metal with tiny holes from top to bottom covering the filter material...The filter paper would have to tear up pretty small to get through this thing.

 

Found this on Fram website dated 2001.

A small amount of neoprene rubber was
used in the FRAM filter as a sealant.
Throughout our investigation with
Cummins & DaimlerChrysler on various
engine failures, no conclusive evidence
was found to assign cause to filters or
other contamination sources. However,
driven to satisfy our customers, the FRAM
engineering team made modifications to the
design eliminating the neoprene and
expedited development and manufacturing to
release a revised filter model number to
PH3976A.
With the design change on the PH3976A
completely removing the use of neoprene,
there is absolutely no validity in comments
that the Fram filter should not be
used for this application or that it may
cause engine failures associated with
plugged nozzles.
The Honeywell Consumer Products Group
warranty policy also protects the consumer if
it is determined that a FRAM filter is
responsible for damage to an engine due to
defects in design or workmanship.
This information should be openly conveyed
to our customers if they have any concerns
or apprehension about using a FRAM filter
for this application.
Gary Bilski
Manager PC/HD Filter Engineering

 

I change mine every 4-5K miles. I also use Baldwin oil filters,never had an issue with these filters. If huge cat motors in the ag fields can run baldwins,i have no problem running it on my cummins...

 

There is always going to be residual oil left in the engine.Puddles on top of the head,galleys,oil pan etc.. Its not enough to turn 3gal. black. It is all due to the 3rd injection event.I can change black oil out of my 01's and have good clean oil for a couple thousand miles before it starts to get dark.They have the same residual as these CR's.So whats the difference? Fuel delivery,multiple injection events particularly the 3rd event.

You guys using Fram's, to each your own.You might go the life of the engine with no failures,you might not. Fleetguard stratapores can be had locally for $10.50 at the International,John Deere or Cummins dealers.To me a cheap expense for peice of mind.These motors run extremely high oil pressure.Don't let the dummy gauge on the dash fool you! Try running an actual oil pressure gauge and you will be surprised.I have seen in excess of 80lbs on cold mornings and well over 60lbs cruising with a load.

 

FunFinder5.

It's OK to do what you are doing, at least you are consistent, and with that low mileage interval changes, you should be good to go.

I am not a fan of FRAM anything, I had a fram oil filter come apart, did some serious engine damages. I also have seen the fram air filter do a poor job and again, damages.

I'm not cheap, neither are engines and major repairs to them, but I am sensible about how I approach my maintenance and kind of split the difference of what is poor maintenance and what is over maintenance.

I installed a bypass filter to help deal with the soot. I use the Valvoline Premium Blue oil per the mfr recommendations - it is not really that much more costly overall, and I use the Stratapore oil filter - again, it is not that much more expensive that a FRAM. I change my oil at 7500 mile intervals, which equals that twice a year change like you, my annual mileage is right at 15K. I go that mileage distance because I have the bypass filter, otherwise I would change my oil at 5K intervals like you do even with the use of the VPB. Since I am doing my own oil changes and not paying someone labor, I do an oil test at every oil change - they cost $15. I do them because they give me information about things like fuel % in the oil, which tells me how my injectors are doing, how my air filtration is holding up, etc - all very valuable information that is more or less a preventative viewpoint.

Each of us has our own way of going about this process. Each of us reaches into their pocket, either up front, or on the backside, basically most all costs wash out each other in the overall. I prefer to pay a little more up front, it has always given me much more time and overall lifespan of my vehicles before a costly repair rears it's ugly head.



CD

 

Its not really the 3rd event that causes the black oil but rather the injection timing, cam grind, and fueling. The black oil is the soot being suspended by the oil after picking it up, thats what it is designed to do.

The cam timing changed starting with the CR engines to help meets emissions. The exhaust valve opens later in the combustion cycles and there is less overlap with the intake. This ends up forcing more of the soot laden combusted charge to be used. Along with the late timing that leaves more soot in the exhaust, this dumps it back into the cylinder where it gets by the rings and into the oil. Add to that just more fuel to make the power and its the reuslt.

You see the same thing on 1st and 2nd gens as you power them up. My 92 runs comparable with a stock late CR in power. The oil will stay cleaner longer because of the cam grind but it turns black a lot faster than with 200-250 hp. It used to run 5k miles and still be amber before it started clouding. About 1k mile snow and it looks like it is due for a change.

FYI, if you want clean oil and better low end TQ swap the cam out for a PDR or even a 24 cam. That will clean up the oil problem somewhat. Change your injection timing to take advantage of the cam and you will be lucky if the 3rd even ever fires again in normal use.

 

Great explanation 6, I do notice more soot in the exhaust, and when I punch it, I notice more black smoke then my 03. I dont want to change anything as long as its normal.

 

The color of the oil has nothing to do with its condition. I just laugh when I hear that someone can tell the condition of the oil by the color,smell,or the way it feels between their fingers.

The ONLY way you'll really know whats happening in the crankcase is by used oil analysis. Everything else is just a guess.

I'd much rather have black oil than "amber" or "honey" or whatever else people seem to think means the oil is good. Oil doesn't just lubricate,it also cleans. Oil that doesn't get dark means its not cleaning the engine.

 

The oil in my 95 ctd stayed clean right to 5k miles, even with all the mods done to it. I prefered to change it before it got the point where the amount of soot particles were so great that the oil could no longer keep them in suspension and they precipitated out and would cling to the internals of the engine. As we all know this is impossible to guage with the 3rd gens.