I wait for the engine to cool a bit before I start.

I have the EZ change drain plug and hose from Geno's Garage. It works great and no mess. Unscrew the cap and attach the drain hose and drain it into a large drain pan with pour spout from wally world.

While the engine is draining I prep the new oil filter, I use Fleetguard, lightly oil the new filter gasket.

I use the Lisle filter wrench, the metal one from Geno's, for filter removal from underneath the truck. After breaking the filter loose I slide a 1 gallon plastic bag over the filter and unscrew the filter. It slides into the plastic bag which usually catches any stray oil. If the oil and filter are hot the plastic bag will leak. I clean off the filter housing and make sure that the old filter gasket is on the old filter and has not remained on the filter housing. Drain most of the oil from the old filter into the oil drain pan. Then drop the old filter and the plastic bag into a plastic shopping bag for disposal. I do this pretty quickly if the oil was hot because the plastic hill leak as noted before.

I put the new filter on per the filter instructions. Basically hand tight. I don't put any oil in the filter. It makes it tougher to put the filter on, increases the risk of dumping dirt into the filter, and isn't necessary. The filter housing fills so fast that there is no possibility of engine damage IMO. Done this on lots of rigs over the years.

Unscrew the hose from the oil pan, wipe down the connector, and put the cap back on.

Add your favorite oil. Start the engine and check for leaks.

While you are under the truck look everything over. Grease the zerks and go to cleanup. I keep my old oil containers and pour the old oil into them. Our local recycle center takes the old oil.

This was long winded. The process is easy and doesn't take long. I also do my own axles, tranny and transfer case lube. Also easy.

Hope this helps,

Joe

 

Anybody have a site to order these bad boys off of? I'd LOVE one

 

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....er=FTP-F104N-A

 

I thank ya...yer a scholar and a gentleman!

PURCHASED!

Also, these things pretty dependable, long lasting and all that good stuff?

 

Glad I could be of service, sir.


They seem very well made to me. I haven't heard of any failures.

 

Good to know! You ain't gotta call me "sir" though...I'm enlisted in the military, not an officer...boils down to I put my pants on just like you (officers have somebody else put theirs on for them...LOL) thanks again man

Derek

 

No problem. I was just trying to live up to the "scholar and gentleman" title you bestowed upon me...

 

Lots of good advice given. My own little twist to oil changes -

I have the Fumoto valve, and I can control the oil drain right into the empty 1 gallon jugs left over from the last oil change, then take 'em to recycle.

I drain the oil when the engine is operating temp. Then, I wait several hours, or even overnight, and do the oil filter after everything is cool.

Best thing about doing it yourself is you KNOW what oil went in (I always worry the shop just puts in whatever is cheapest for them), and you KNOW its got the right amount, and all the drain plugs are tight (first oil change I had the dealer do - when I did the next change, I could take the drain plug out with my fingers - wasn't even a little bit tight. A disaster waiting to happen).

 

I also found that if you wait till oil pan is completely drained, there is less oil to spill from filter.

 

I hope I don't sound like a moron, but why do it on a warmed up engine? Seems all the oil would be in the pan already? I would figure that just given an hour or so, all that could be in the pan would come out...? As far as the filter, I would figure the same...?

Help me to understand...

 

You just don't want to do it at outside ambient temperature, especially this time of year. When the oil is warmed it drains easier/more quickly. I usually let mine sit for a little while after shutdown so that the oil drains back into the pan, at least as much as is possible.When the oil is warmed it drains down pretty quickly.

The filter doesn't drain because of it's position. I have found that only a small amount of oil drips out of the filter housing when the filter is removed. I usually crack the filter open and let it sit for a little while. My thinking is that it will help the oil drain down more quickly.

 

If I had one of those drain valves I'm not sure if I'd trust it, I'd always be looking underneath to make sure it was closed. It WOULD make draining the hot oil a little easier on the fingers though!

A tip I learned on here is to take a plastic pop bottle and cut the lid off of it, then after you crack the oil filter loose from below, take the bottle (1 quart size I think) slide it up over the filter. Now you can loosen the filter all the way off, it will fall into the bottle and you won't spill a drop on yourself, slick as snot off a rooster's lip!

MAke sure the rubber gasket comes off with the filter, I've heard they sometimes stick to the engine.

 

Fisherguy-
There is a detent that the valve must be pulled around, then down. A two step process. Definetly wouldn't happen without someone physically doing it. Trust me, you'll like having one. Besides, no one overtight'ens this one and becomes a "leaker".

I would guess that the only problem with doing the oil change on a cold motor is the long drain process. I can easily live with that. At least all the oil will already be there.

Tom

 

You need to change your oil now....in a new vehicle, always change your oil when you get back from the dealership, or have the dealership change it. and then about every 2000 miles after until your first scheduled oil change (7500 miles). In new engines as they break in there are metal shavings and other stuff all over the place. Anyone will tell you to change your oil about 2-3 times before your first scheduled oil change.

 

Ive always been told that priming the oil filter (prefilling the oil filter w/about a quart of oil) on these "smaller" diesel engines was totally unnecessary and very risky. Unnecessary because of the smaller engine size and fast/strong oil pump? Very risky because any oil placed into the filter (along with unwanted debris) prior to startup would go directly to the engine. Im pretty sure that the only time that priming an oil filter can be somewhat justified is on the much larger engines like the ones in the dump trucks and 18wheelers-I guess because it takes longer for oil pressure to biuld up?
Long story short, I have changed a lot of oil but I have never primed an oil filter.
Changing your own oil is the smartest and easiest thing you can do for your truck.
Drew Stuart