Well my engine has been torn down for almost 2 years now until I had the money to put back into it after a spun bearing and a cracked crank.

I am taking the engine to a guy this weekend for him to start on it since I am too busy with work (thank God).

Already got the crank, rod, rod bearings, main bearings.
I was looking up the gasket sets and noticed that Enterprise diesel doesnt show exhaust gaskets with their standard head gasket set???

Why would I want the "thick head gasket"? I assume to lower compression?


I need to know what other things I should get while its apart?

Thanks in advance, Dan

 

You would not want to lower compression unless you have some big turbos making big power.

Have all your bearings and pistons coated by swain.

Coat tappets if you can too... Cam bushings worth it if you can do it.

Balance and blueprint rotating assy.

Threaded freeze plugs in the head, billet bolted on freeze plug in the rear.

That is a start, others will add more.

 

Anyone else?

 

Sometimes thicker head gaskets are used to keep the compression ratio the same as stock after decking the head and block mating surfaces. It makes up for the material lost in truing them up.

 

And why do they offer 2 different head gaskets for stock. ?
They say +.30mm and -.30mm piston protrusion ????
Thanks

 

PArts selection depends on use. If you're building a race engine, where every bit of torque counts, then you should get the bearings and piston skirts friction coated, have the pistons crown coated with a thermal barrier. For a street or tow engine, you'll gain very little bang for the buck.

Balancing the entire rotating assembly is important for higher rpm's. At rpm's below 2,500 or so, there's very little advantage; especially considering the cost. It's a time consuming and tedious process.

Balancing the crank, flywheel/flexplate and front balancer is a good idea, though. It's a fairly easy process, and doesn't take long. Usually doesn't cost more than $150 or so. But if there's a big mismatch between the three parts, you want to know about it now.

I personally think blueprinting is an important step for every engine; for increased efficiency and reliability over the long haul. Checking every bearing clearance, ring gap, spring height, etc.

Don't pick the head gasket yet. You'll need to get the piston in place and see where they are in relation to the deck surface. Then use the gasket to set the quench height.

You don't need an exhaust manifold gasket. Use a tube of hi-temp silicone sealant. Works better, easy to find, and darned cheap. Will probably be the only cheap part you buy.

 

So I called the machine shop today about getting the crank, flywheel and balancer balenced. He quoted me $165. Here's the good part, he's including the entire rotating assembly for that cost. :-)