I've had my 03 4x4 dually in the shop a couple times now for a pulling-to-the-right problem. Dealer sent me to a independent shop specializing in large trucks. The only adjustment on 4x4s is to turn an adjusting bolt (don't know what it's called). They max'd that out and it still pulls. Dealer called DC tech support and was told this is a common problem on straight axle vehicles, including Jeeps. DC has no fix other than to say "it's normal". They said the dealer could try to adjust the rear axle hoping that would help "push" the front end in the opposite direction. I don't want them doing R & D on my truck. Changing the wheelbase length on one side at the rear axle just seems too funky to me. Anybody else have a fix?

 

First of all have them check the geometry of the rear axle to begin with. It may be off already. What they adjusted is likely the tie rod end. I would also check for a bent tie rod. Is it possible that you could have wacked it on something?

If the rear axle is on straight and the camber, caster and toe are both correct and equal on the front sides it may actually be a tire problem. Namely a radial pull. Try swapping front and rear tires and see if it changes.

 

doe s it do it braking or when u let go of the wheel? Isit a pull(do u have to fight it) or is it a drift? dodge has spacers they use behingd the wheels in the 2nd gen trucks to fix problems like this they came in several different thicknesses. That if every thing else checks like was stated before check for bad tire you can swap the fronts side to side if messing with the rear wheels is a pain.

 

actually the 03 manual suggests swaping front tires side to side.

Vehicle pulls to one side

1. Tire pressure
2. Tire
3. Alignment
4. Loose or worn steering or suspension components
5. Radial Tire lead
6. Weak or broken spring.

1. Adjust pressure
2. Criss cross front tires
3. Align Vehicle to specifications
4. Tighten and or replace components
5. Rotate or replace tires as necessary. IMHO replace
6. Replace spring.

The tie rod adjustment really just effects toe.

There is also an adjustment cam on the lower control arm. Check to see that these are adjusted equally on both control arms. These adjust caster. If the cams are not equal it wont track straight either.

Find someplace that can measure 4 wheel alignment. Eventhough the rear is said to be non adjustable it can be checked just like an adjustable to see if it is straight.

It would'nt be the first time the alignment key on the axle to spring mounting pad was inserted in the wrong spot or the entire perch welded just a bit off. The corresponding hole on the spring could have been misdrilled as well. I believe the manual calls these center bolts.



I have had a truck off road that actually sheered the alignment pin off in the spring.

IMHO they should be no where near maxing the tie rod adjustments to get the front toe right. The caster adjustments must be identical left to right. If the front toe and caster are on and a laser alignment prints out exact shop manual specs on the front it is either tires or the rear axle. Using just the front to dial out error in the rear is just going to wear front tires. If it is bad tires chuck those f-ers.

 

A buddy had this problem with his full size blazer years ago; it turned out that the rear end was not in alignment.

We found this out by pouring water over the wheels in a dry parking lot, then rolling the truck forward and looking at how the tire tracks over lapped each other. The rear differential was about an inch or so out of alignment (it was barely perceptible looking at the truck). Did the same thing in the service bay at the dealer for the service manager to witness.

The pull was most pronounced under braking; therefore the dealer up to that point only did the front end alignment and changed brakes numerous times. His also pulled to the right.

 

Hmm

USN retired

My dad was a sea bee. Da Nang etc.. etc..

I have spent some time on duty at another branches equivelent to annapolis. Lets just say their is a rukus in the stands at football games vs annapolis.

Anyway..

The water test is a good shade tree method. Some high end shops in bigger cities have drive on alignment pads. It can log the tire path and even lateral forces exerted by the tires on the pad.

Such facilities are few and far between unfortunately.

The rear alignment really is'nt adjustable in that no threaded or sloted hardware is inplace. This does'nt mean the production tolerances cant add up or that mistakes can happen.

Jack up the frame and loosen the u-bolts enough to see between the axle and the spring. There should be a little indexing pin, stud or bolt in the axles perch that lines up with a hole in the spring. If it is bent or damaged it could be it. It also may have been drilled and installed in the wrong spot.

I have seen

1. bent and broken pins
2. Laterall and longitudinal placement errors of the indexing pin on the spring perch.
3. Miss drilled holes on the spring. One side too far forward, backward or to far too one side.
4. Spring perches welded in the wrong spot. Like too far in or out on one side or not inline rotation wise with the other side.

Probably alot more.

not really on dodges only just alot of leaf spring solid rear axle trucks.

Find where it is off and I'll tell you how to fix it yourself. Like a tapered shim under one spring but not another etc. There are ways to align the rear it depends on where it is off and by how much.

 

Ignore the parts that dont apply like about some circle track cars running rear axle offset. Even the author thinks there are better ways to do it on circle track cars.

http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...958/index.html

We are of course trying to fix a dually. The process of measuring the rear axles location and angle is the same however. You are looking to make it perpendicular to the frame and centered on the frame. So measure it the same way they write about.

"The rear axle centerline should be exactly perpendicular to the centerline of the chassis. "

Yep

This part does'nt apply.

"Also, the right-side tire contact patches should track in line with each other, regardless of the difference in track width of the front and rear tires."

You want the rear tires lining up with the front the same on both sides. Simply put a mirror image left and right or symmetry.

Also ignore the part about removing the shocks and springs. Just put it up on stands. It's not a car so you can get under it. You just need a level concrete pad to park on to do the chalk line and drop the plumb bob. Put the same exact stands under all four axles and adjust them so that the ride height is duplicated. This way each spring is supporting what it would if the wheels were on on level ground.

 

All the above is good advice. Mine from day one pulled to the right slightly plus the steering was stiff. The dealer found a bad steering box. He installed a new steering box and did an alignment. Since then it tracks straight and the steering is light.