Merged - Park Recall / Reverse honk "feature"
01-30-2007, 10:24 PM
#211
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
I know it doesn't work if it sees a forward gear! Tried that the other day. Everytime I have got out "quick " at a gas station on house, ect. it has gone off. I tend to open the door before actually shifting into park. I have found out however, if your foot is on the brake it doesn't honk and flash the lights. As soon as you let off the brake is when it does it's magic! Like a previous post says, set the e-brake , or don't let off the brake. Another idea is to put a "TOW" or "BACKING" switch in. Run a ground wire from the e-brake switch to a switch in the dash that is also hooked to ground, thus fooling the truck to thinking that the e-brake is on, but not actually having the brake dragging. Just a thought.
Andy
Andy
02-01-2007, 08:01 PM
#213
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I'm new to this forum but have been pouring over this topic for several days now searching for a good solution to this reverse alarm "feature". I have a 04 2500 4X4 and the quick and easy seatbelt fix didn't work. The only other previously mentioned fix I liked is the one where you swap the door ajar sense wires for the drivers side front and rear doors. This one sounded the most elegant since it didn't evolve disabling any of the other features like the dome light coming on when the door is open etc. The only weird thing is that the key-in-ignition chime goes off with the back door now...that I can live with. To accomplish this wire swap you need the patience of a save cracker and some of the same skills to get the pins out of the Molex connector. The correct connector is a white 24 pin attached to the end of a larger connector with a bolt holding it together. This connector is visible from under the drivers side dash next to the emergency brake pedal. It's the one nearest the firewall. The wires to swap are in connector pins 5 and 6 and the colors are violet for one and violet with a grey stripe for the other. These wires are on the end in the second row. I had to loosen the bold and unplug the large connector in order to remove the smaller one form the side. I pushed a jewelers screwdriver in from the back to unhook it. Then I was able to separate the two sides of the white connector. Here is where the safe cracking expertise comes in. The connector has a securing mechanism holding all the pins in. A flat screwdriver can be used in the loop at the top of the connector to move the lock slightly out. Then a paperclip can be use in the small hole at the bottom inside if the connector to allow the lock mechanism to disengage. Now a smaller jewelers screwdriver can be used to release the desired pin from the inside. Insert the screwdriver and force the catch downward while pulling the wire from the back side. Now the two wires can be swapped and the whole mess reassembles. This may sound like too much trouble but it beats running wires to a separate switch to disable the horn or the door ajar sensor (I think). Good Luck.
02-03-2007, 10:30 PM
#214
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I don't mean to be scolding but there are several recommended ways to disable this "feature" mentioned in this thread, including mine : https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...17#post1264617
It's a little involved and only works on quad cabs but it doesn't require new wiring or switches.
It's a little involved and only works on quad cabs but it doesn't require new wiring or switches.
02-04-2007, 07:11 AM
#215
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I have a regular cab so I am still just riding around without a horn. One of these days I will find which wire is the hot wire to the horn and tap it with a switch. Pretty neat isn't it, a $30k plus thousand truck without a freakin horn.
Roy
02-04-2007, 08:39 AM
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02-05-2007, 10:05 PM
#217
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I'm new to this forum but have been pouring over this topic for several days now searching for a good solution to this reverse alarm "feature". I have a 04 2500 4X4 and the quick and easy seatbelt fix didn't work. The only other previously mentioned fix I liked is the one where you swap the door ajar sense wires for the drivers side front and rear doors. This one sounded the most elegant since it didn't evolve disabling any of the other features like the dome light coming on when the door is open etc. The only weird thing is that the key-in-ignition chime goes off with the back door now...that I can live with. To accomplish this wire swap you need the patience of a save cracker and some of the same skills to get the pins out of the Molex connector. The correct connector is a white 24 pin attached to the end of a larger connector with a bolt holding it together. This connector is visible from under the drivers side dash next to the emergency brake pedal. It's the one nearest the firewall. The wires to swap are in connector pins 5 and 6 and the colors are violet for one and violet with a grey stripe for the other. These wires are on the end in the second row. I had to loosen the bold and unplug the large connector in order to remove the smaller one form the side. I pushed a jewelers screwdriver in from the back to unhook it. Then I was able to separate the two sides of the white connector. Here is where the safe cracking expertise comes in. The connector has a securing mechanism holding all the pins in. A flat screwdriver can be used in the loop at the top of the connector to move the lock slightly out. Then a paperclip can be use in the small hole at the bottom inside if the connector to allow the lock mechanism to disengage. Now a smaller jewelers screwdriver can be used to release the desired pin from the inside. Insert the screwdriver and force the catch downward while pulling the wire from the back side. Now the two wires can be swapped and the whole mess reassembles. This may sound like too much trouble but it beats running wires to a separate switch to disable the horn or the door ajar sensor (I think). Good Luck.
02-06-2007, 06:13 PM
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02-11-2007, 09:00 PM
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Has anyone experience the joy of this feature with a misadjusted shift cable, or am I the first? Every 3rd time I open my door, I make it halfway to the mailbox and the alarm goes off. Can't always get the truck into park. Originally asking for a shift cable adjustment is what got the recall done in the first place.
I am 100% angry and 100% intent on contacting DC in writing and advising them I will go to whatever lengths necessary to make them reverse the unauthorized modifications they made to my truck! They hacked my $43,000 truck! Yes I do have a lawyer (Mike Power out of Phila) who has dealt with DC in the past.
I applaud the efforts made here to circumvent this feature, however unless I missed something, no one has figured out a way to reverse it, and it looks as if I am going to be the first. If you wish to be a part of this, I will post a letter you can print and sign as soon as I draft my complaint. If it is not kosher to post here, I am not sure what is anymore, please PM me. This is a serious problem and it is getting addressed NOW.
I am 100% angry and 100% intent on contacting DC in writing and advising them I will go to whatever lengths necessary to make them reverse the unauthorized modifications they made to my truck! They hacked my $43,000 truck! Yes I do have a lawyer (Mike Power out of Phila) who has dealt with DC in the past.
I applaud the efforts made here to circumvent this feature, however unless I missed something, no one has figured out a way to reverse it, and it looks as if I am going to be the first. If you wish to be a part of this, I will post a letter you can print and sign as soon as I draft my complaint. If it is not kosher to post here, I am not sure what is anymore, please PM me. This is a serious problem and it is getting addressed NOW.
02-12-2007, 10:46 AM
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Has anyone experience the joy of this feature with a misadjusted shift cable, or am I the first? Every 3rd time I open my door, I make it halfway to the mailbox and the alarm goes off. Can't always get the truck into park. Originally asking for a shift cable adjustment is what got the recall done in the first place.
I am 100% angry and 100% intent on contacting DC in writing and advising them I will go to whatever lengths necessary to make them reverse the unauthorized modifications they made to my truck! They hacked my $43,000 truck! Yes I do have a lawyer (Mike Power out of Phila) who has dealt with DC in the past.
I applaud the efforts made here to circumvent this feature, however unless I missed something, no one has figured out a way to reverse it, and it looks as if I am going to be the first. If you wish to be a part of this, I will post a letter you can print and sign as soon as I draft my complaint. If it is not kosher to post here, I am not sure what is anymore, please PM me. This is a serious problem and it is getting addressed NOW.
I am 100% angry and 100% intent on contacting DC in writing and advising them I will go to whatever lengths necessary to make them reverse the unauthorized modifications they made to my truck! They hacked my $43,000 truck! Yes I do have a lawyer (Mike Power out of Phila) who has dealt with DC in the past.
I applaud the efforts made here to circumvent this feature, however unless I missed something, no one has figured out a way to reverse it, and it looks as if I am going to be the first. If you wish to be a part of this, I will post a letter you can print and sign as soon as I draft my complaint. If it is not kosher to post here, I am not sure what is anymore, please PM me. This is a serious problem and it is getting addressed NOW.
It's cheap, simple, doesn't involve all these "Joe McGee" techniques...........
Simply isolate the hot wire to the horn. Cut it. Attach a separate wire on each cut end. Route those to ends through your firewall to a nice convenient under-dash location. Attach some kind of a toggle switch of your choice.
Now you have a manual cutt-off switch for the horn itself.
When you want to do some backing up in a campground late at night or early in the morning or any place where you don't want that darn old horn honking accidently because you opened your driver's door while in reverse, you just flip that toggle so that the hot wire to the horn is disconnected temporarily.
*******
Why is everyone monkeying around with E-brakes, door switches, seat belts.......etc?
*****
Again.
1. Isolate hot wire to horn...or wire that makes horn honk.
2. Cut said wire in two.
3. Attach automotive wire to each cut end of cut wire.
4. Route each attached wires to a location in the truck cab of your choice and attach an on/off toggle switch to these two wire-ends.
Summary: You have now become King and Master over the E17
Honk-Honk D.C. debacle.
02-12-2007, 12:52 PM
#221
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I've posted a fool-proof method at least 2 or three times on this thread, but nobody seems to respond to it.
It's cheap, simple, doesn't involve all these "Joe McGee" techniques...........
Simply isolate the hot wire to the horn. Cut it. Attach a separate wire on each cut end. Route those to ends through your firewall to a nice convenient under-dash location. Attach some kind of a toggle switch of your choice.
Now you have a manual cutt-off switch for the horn itself.
When you want to do some backing up in a campground late at night or early in the morning or any place where you don't want that darn old horn honking accidently because you opened your driver's door while in reverse, you just flip that toggle so that the hot wire to the horn is disconnected temporarily.
*******
Why is everyone monkeying around with E-brakes, door switches, seat belts.......etc?
*****
Again.
1. Isolate hot wire to horn...or wire that makes horn honk.
2. Cut said wire in two.
3. Attach automotive wire to each cut end of cut wire.
4. Route each attached wires to a location in the truck cab of your choice and attach an on/off toggle switch to these two wire-ends.
Summary: You have now become King and Master over the E17 Honk-Honk D.C. debacle.
It's cheap, simple, doesn't involve all these "Joe McGee" techniques...........
Simply isolate the hot wire to the horn. Cut it. Attach a separate wire on each cut end. Route those to ends through your firewall to a nice convenient under-dash location. Attach some kind of a toggle switch of your choice.
Now you have a manual cutt-off switch for the horn itself.
When you want to do some backing up in a campground late at night or early in the morning or any place where you don't want that darn old horn honking accidently because you opened your driver's door while in reverse, you just flip that toggle so that the hot wire to the horn is disconnected temporarily.
*******
Why is everyone monkeying around with E-brakes, door switches, seat belts.......etc?
*****
Again.
1. Isolate hot wire to horn...or wire that makes horn honk.
2. Cut said wire in two.
3. Attach automotive wire to each cut end of cut wire.
4. Route each attached wires to a location in the truck cab of your choice and attach an on/off toggle switch to these two wire-ends.
Summary: You have now become King and Master over the E17
Honk-Honk D.C. debacle.there you go !! that will work Thanks, Flip
02-15-2007, 03:38 PM
#223
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You should start a new topic with your own title.
02-18-2007, 11:55 AM
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02-21-2007, 07:59 AM
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Hi all,
I just joined this forum based on the problem described in this thread. I took my 04.5 in for warranty work, and without asking me, they installed the stupid "recall". I complained to the dealer that did the work, but as expected they just said "sorry, we had to do it, and we can't undo it". Upon further digging on the NHTSA website, I come to find out, NHTSA found no defects with the transmission. This "recall" is for a problem that never existed. Apparently (and I'm assuming DC did it based on lawsuits) DC just decided to do this "fix" as a cover-their-edited by admin move that wasn't actually the result of a mechanical problem. Of course, now I'm irritated beyond all reason. I've emailed DC, but haven't received a response yet.
However, in pondering the problem, I think I might have come up with an idea to work around the problem that combines some of the previous suggestions from this thread. I haven't tried it yet myself, but will do so if I don't get a promising response from DC. Instead of installing a switch on the horn, or swapping wires from door sensors, why not wire in a relay on the horn that is controlled by the door sensor? Door open, horn circuit is open, no horn. Door closed, horn circuit is closed, back to normal operation. The only thing I'm not certain of is whether the door circuit is normally open or closed, but that shouldn't be hard to figure out.
Any thoughts? If anyone is willing to try it, please post results here.
I just joined this forum based on the problem described in this thread. I took my 04.5 in for warranty work, and without asking me, they installed the stupid "recall". I complained to the dealer that did the work, but as expected they just said "sorry, we had to do it, and we can't undo it". Upon further digging on the NHTSA website, I come to find out, NHTSA found no defects with the transmission. This "recall" is for a problem that never existed. Apparently (and I'm assuming DC did it based on lawsuits) DC just decided to do this "fix" as a cover-their-edited by admin move that wasn't actually the result of a mechanical problem. Of course, now I'm irritated beyond all reason. I've emailed DC, but haven't received a response yet.
However, in pondering the problem, I think I might have come up with an idea to work around the problem that combines some of the previous suggestions from this thread. I haven't tried it yet myself, but will do so if I don't get a promising response from DC. Instead of installing a switch on the horn, or swapping wires from door sensors, why not wire in a relay on the horn that is controlled by the door sensor? Door open, horn circuit is open, no horn. Door closed, horn circuit is closed, back to normal operation. The only thing I'm not certain of is whether the door circuit is normally open or closed, but that shouldn't be hard to figure out.
Any thoughts? If anyone is willing to try it, please post results here.
Last edited by Totallyrad; 06-08-2007 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Profanity