Allen Samuels Dodge, big dealer, big name to keep up try them

 

I can tell you haven't had your truck to Allen Samuels Dodge. My truck went there once and only once. I think I new more about the thing than they did. Henson Dodge in Sealy has an excellent Diesel Mech. Thats all he works on.

 

Some posts here and there about SEAFOAM working where others did not.

 

So if I have read this right, the best solution, or last chance before taking it to a new dealership, is to put injector cleaner in it and run the pee out of it? I've got the hills to strain it and the lead foot to help, but I have been putting Lucus in every 5th or 6th tank since day one, should that not help? Or do I just really have to keep it in 5th gear and run it hard to do any good? Sorry to re open this but this knock is driving me nuts
Also I suggested Allen Samuels b/c all I have heard is good from the one in Austin and the one in Waco, sorry to mislead on that one

 

I have always used Power Service and for the last 8 mo. added MMO
with it. And my engine has always been pretty quiet and about all
I have done to help it , since I don't tow is to drop in down to 5th
about once a week and power up a hill or two accelerating from 60
to maybe 75. This blows the soot out of the exhaust pipe but I
couldn't testify as how much it cleanes the injectors as I think it takes more
time to do any good there.

But after reading some comments about SeaFoam I tried a couple
cans more as a preventative than anything else.

I was pleasantly surprised to notice my engine sounded even quieter.

From now on I plan to use it about every 6 mo. I would definitely
suggest anyone experiencing noisey injectors to give it a good
cleaning first. At the very least I might save you the trouble of
doing without your truck for a period of time at some dealership.

 

Not really. If you don't work the engine it will carbon the tips, and, depending on the additive it may still carbon up under moderate towing. Am not familiar with the Lucas composition so am not sure what it will do. In order to "work" the engine you need to be able to sustained EGT temps of 1200 to 1300 degrees for several hours at a time. A periodic blast to 100+ mph with an empty truck will not do it.

As an example I have a 92 with pyro that will dyno at about the same HP as my 05, a bunch more TQ but thats just the trans saver. Empty truck foot on the floor over 100 mph run will just touch 1300 degrees. On the dyno it will barely top 1200. Load it down 10k and drive it at 70 to 75 and the EGT's will hang right at 1250 degrees and I some times do that for 16 hours. Thats working it and getting it hot enough to burn the crud off the injectors.

I run 12 oz of PS/MMO, mostly for lube abd cetane, every tank and have for 26k. Every chance I get I hook onto a trailer and run it up and down all the hills I can. No injector noise, no power problems, no white smoke or rough idle, mileage empty is 17 to 20 depending on speed, 10 to 14 loaded depending on weight.

You can run the snot out of it and have some fun or take it to the dealer and have your intelligence insulted when they tell you "they all do it". I just HATE going to the dealer unless its a major problem. Good luck.

 

Please excuse the long post. Thought the detail would give the do it yourselfers a good idea of what your getting yourself into if your going to torque the injector bolts.
Last night I found the time to tighten the injector mounting bolts after obtaining a (in. lbs.) torque wrench. This ended up not being for the faint of heart as the exhaust rockers had to be removed in order to torque the injector bolts to 89in. lbs. I found the rocker arm bolts to break loose at 15 - 16ft. lbs. Service manual states these need to be 27ft. lbs.
First round was removing the exhaust rockers in the same order as you would run the valves and torque the injector bolts 89in. lbs. Then torque the rocker arms 27ft.lbs. ensuring as I did that the crosshead was installed the correct direction. (There were 5ea injector bolts that were not at the correct torque)
From the factory the intake crossheads dimple or mark was on the valve closest to the intake side of the engine and the exhaust crossheads dimple or mark was on the valve closest to the exhaust side of the engine. I did not find reference to these marks in the service manual but thought it significant enough to reinstall in the same manor as the factory installed them. The exhaust crossheads were not intentionally removed but were relocated by oil film strength when removing the rocker arms
So the second round was torquing all of the rocker arm bolts in the same manor, as you would adjust the valves. All were less than 27ft. lbs.!
Third round was running the valves. All valves were at or over there max lash limits, prior to removing the rockers. The end lash settings were set at .009 intake and .017 exhaust.
For a grand total of 6ea 360-degree revolutions of the engine after finding TDC at 12:00 and #1 cyl intake and exhaust rockers loose.
All said and done a couple of hours. Did it help? Well the engine is quieter and sounds better but the injector noise is still there.
If nothing else the valves needed to be ran. I thought the lash was way loose for they’re being less than 50,000mi on the truck and eliminating a potential cause for the injector noise.
Would I do it again in hind site? Absolutely! It was worth it just to attempt to correct the months of frustration that have built up.
Again sorry for the long post, thought it might help someone’s decision on weather or not to attempt this. I will dup this into another thread that this is related to.
TY (Thank You)
IC

 

I have done the following :
1. Seafoam in the fuel filter canister,and 2 cans in the tank(Only 1/4 of diesel)
2. PS and MO mix.
3. I have even done Seafoam,PS and MO all together .
4. The last thing was BD diesel fuel system cleaning kit. Which is they run 100% cleaner through the fuel system for about 30 min. Then they put a bottle in the tank.

None of this stuff helped me but I have had this problem for about 30,000 miles now. I just hope they find something today. I will keep you posted.

 

Well I don't have any thing good to report. They are recommending pulling out the injectors and manually cleaning the injectors for carbon build up. They said they tested the lift pump flow,CP3 pump flow and they shut down each cyl. one at a time. Every thing looks like it working properly from what they tested. Errrr.. I'm not happy with what they told on the engine hr report 2313 hrs run time ,552 idle time(This fig.is BS) I don't do a lot of city driving, I don't idle more then 40 sec in the morning and I shut down the engine when my egt are at 300 deg. I have 94,320 miles on my truck and I drive a min. of 110 miles a day to work with and avg. speed I would guess around 55 mph. I don't know how they come up with idle time unless they are considering anything under 1500 rpm idle time. I hope somebody else has better luck then me. I keep you guys posted in a couple weeks after I pull my injectors.

 

CJJones, Idle time is time spent under 1200 rpm I think. If that number were true that would be your problem for sure as these trucks hate idling under 1200 for long periods because of the timing done to improve emmisions. To check the injectors for equivalent fueling is not too hard to do. When the exhaust manifold is cool, start the truck rev ti 1500 and use a laser temp gun to take the temps on the manifold pipe for each cylinder. The hottest one is getting more fuel the coolest one is less fuel. My truck sounds quiet and the injectors smooth because I often run for 600 to 800 miles a day towing heavy and only stopping for fuel and food. Even in winter I start the truck and 10 seconds later I'm moving. It takes me about a minute to get out of first gear as I live in the hollow of a hill and with a cold tranny I gotta getter to 2500rpm to shift to 2nd, 2nd to 35mph shift and then normal. On shutdown I idle to 300deg pre turbo and then off. If I stop for less than 5 minutes I idle with the manual idle stick pushed in to 1200rpm. I always use standyne performance and Howes. I really like Howes in winter. I think injector removal and cleaning is your best bet this far into the trucks life. I'd change additives as this one hasn't helped you. Adjustment of rockers and valve lash and it should be good to go. ks

 

pick up a bottle of power service, costs about $6, get mine at NAPA. It does make a difference on my rig, but I do use it for towing, get it good and hot, keeps the carbon down,.

 

CJJones,


2313 hrs run time ,552 idle time. I assume the the total hours are 2313.
If so your average speed is over 40mph, and based on a poll elsewhere in this forum, that is about as good as it gets. Many people are running in the low 30mph average.

If this type of operation causes objectionable carbon build up I suspect that this engine has a design problem, I have never owned any engine (including 2 navstar diesels) than needed to be operated at 60+% power most of the time to remain happy.

If you do find that your problem is carboned injectors then I think that a good percentage of us are going to have similar problems. It will be interesting to keep an eye on this one.

Good luck in getting it resolved.

Jim B

 

Hey Guys I have some things you might want to check. First I couldn't deal with the noise anymore and pulled my injectors out and replaced them with F1 flux injectors. When pulling out the injectors we found that all the injector hold screws on the exhaust side were loose. The injectors didn't look to bad as far as carbon build up. The F1 are great injectors I'm glad I got rid of the stock ones but maybe the loose screws cause my noise. The truck did get quieter with the new injectors but it’s not as quiet as I thought it would be. I found out something yesterday when I replaced my crank sensor with the Rokktech sensor. My stock one was full of power steering fluid this may have contributed to my engine being louder because when I put the new one in my truck became real quiet and idled smoother which I wasn't expecting. I tried my buddy’s Quad race box with the sensor on my truck yesterday I can't believe the difference it makes with the sensor. I wondering now because of me sensor being filled with power steering fluid that it was giving me to much timing and that was causing the knock. I know my knock is gone now because when I put the quad box on before I had a real loud knock now it’s fine. The only bad thing is now I want to buy a Quad box,B1,Intake system and upgrade my tranny.

 

Hey all...

Mine has been to the dealer several times for the same thing.. It started around 3000 miles and I have almost 10,000 on it now.. my daily driving is 7-10 miles to work.. morning 10 minutes at 60+ home is 45 minutes at idle and 5 to 10 mph. (LA traffic sucks) then weekends I get it out and drive it. No towing.. I bought this truck to last and I love the sound of a diesel.

I have heard everything from "its a diesel it is suposed to be noisey" and I hear it but it won't hurt anything" and the worst "you have lots of warranty left we can't fix it so lets see what happens"..

I talked to my cousin who is a Fleet deisel mechanic and works on about 25 freightlines withthe 5.9 and he doesn't seem to think it will hurt anything..

What do you guys think.. Will This knocking hurt the long term life of the truck??

Gerry

 

I got fed up with my local dealer I bought it from so I took it to a larger dealer with a couple dedicated cummins techs and let them look at it. My local dealer said they couldent hear it one day and then anoughter claimed it had to be the valves but proved themselves wrong and then claimed they could not hear it again. The larger dealer over an hour from here instantly heard it and knew exactly what was wrong. He ran a bunch of tests on it and said that I had a bad injector but STAR wouldent let them replace it because the truck was not being worked hard enough. They literaly told me to take it home and start beating the snot out of it. I needed to get the EGTs higher to burn off the carbon. They did remove and clean all the injectors and it helped a little but dident take long to get loud again. A few months later I pulled a heavie (gross around 20K) load 2000 miles threw Colorado and back. That did the trick. Truck was noticable quieter and ran stronger and smother. A few month later I did the same exact trip with a slightly lighter load and the noise has not come back. Somewhere before the first trip I put a small fueling box on and I balive that did as much good as anything. I can get the EGTs up there eisier now and keep the carbon burnt off. Now i run with the box on the lowest setting abought 75% percent of the time and off the other 25% of the time. Cruising with the box on the EGTs are not any higher than with the box off but when accelerating it gets a little hotter. I think this is what keeps the knock away. It had gotten so bad my budies all asked me if it was going to blow up. They all gave me all kinds of flack for my old 2nd gen being so loud and then when I bought this one they where impressed with how quiet it was for the first 5000 miles till the knock got so loud I couldent stand it. Now with 35000 miles it is as quiet as it was new. Personaly none of the cleaners I ran threw the fuel did anything but adding a little heat to the engine has done wonders.