I've got 80,000 on the clock and just noticed something odd. When I go around a corner slowly I get an oscillating feedback on the steering wheel.

I was wondering how I would know if I had a problem in one of the front wheel u-joints? How much does this cost to get done if they are going? I'm not inclined to replace them with OEM if the life is only 80,000... but not sure if I have an option?

 

We use Napa U joints and they have been fine. Most likely they are shot. You may also feel some vibration when taking off from a stop.

 

Just replaced mine today. You are looking at around $25.00 a pop. The front axle kinda a pain to replace. The front drive shaft aint too bad and the rear shaft is fairly simple. A hammer, good vice, needle nose, grease, and a driving rod (for beating out the old joints) is all ya should need. If they are in bad shape a blue wrench (torch) is needed. If I were you I would get a Haynes Manual and replace all of them.. Or get a quote from a local mechanic..

 

If you can feel it in the steering wheel when turning, i would say its the axle u-joints and not driveshaft. Like banks said those can be a pain because you need to remove the unit bearing (hub) assembly to get at the axle shafts. The hubs are notoriouse for being siezed in there. Precision 464 u-joints from rockauto.com are also very good and reasonably $$, labor would probably be way more. Use the power steering press method if you're a DIY so as not to destroy those expensive hubs!

 

That's what I was thinking. I didn't know if there was something to inspect or another symptom I should expect. For a lot of things I'm fine with DIY... but this seems iffy to me. I hate the possibility of getting it apart... not being able to repair it and maybe not being able to get it back together to take to a shop! Leaning towards just paying a shop to start with.

I guess I was wondering what a good labor quote would be. I guess I also need to find someone who knows what they are doing so they don't destroy the hubs then try to tell me "oh you've gotta pay for that because there's no way to get it apart and re-use the hub"...

Today when I drove it the symptoms were gone... before the truck was sitting for a few weeks and it was about 30 degrees colder if either of those things make a difference.

 

Other than removing the hub, its really not that hard. All you need to do is remove break caliper, leave it all connected and hang it from the frame. Then back out the four bolt for the hub assembly 1/4in or so and push hub out by putting a socket extension on the bolt head and turning steering wheel until socket contacts axle housing. get hands out of the way and turn steering until it presses the bolt. criss-cross to other bolts, then back them out more and repeat. or you can use one bolt in all four holes so you only need to replace one bolt if bent. Once the hub is off just pull axles and beat/heat out the old joint, in with the new, clean out axle tubes and carefully re-insert axles and your done. anti-seize on hub so next time it will come apart easy.

my buddy had a dealer do his and they used a puller on the hub, seperated it, told him there was nothing they could do and charged him for a new one. turned out to be ~$800. You can do it!

I can email you some detailed instructions w/ photos from my dynatrack kit it you want.

 

I replaced the rear in my wife's dually last week. I was getting a vibration on stopping and turning. Ended up being the first joint in back of the carrier, it was frozen and bent. It wobbled out the carrier. I pulled the shafts off and took it to the U joint place. I spent just under $200 on the carrier and both joints then put the shafts back in myself. I called dodge just out of curiosity, carrier bearing was $186 and service charge was $360. I guess I need to start servicing U joints for a living..lol

Garry