I remember reading a link on someones post that had step by step pictures on it. Ihave changed filters on regular trucks and cars, diesels are a little harder right at the moment. I also know these systems are pressurized, if I disconnect the battery and go slow will this be adequate. Some problems I have run into are I cannot get the lid off the filter housing. What size socket is the lid? Also is there a pump and a bleed screw on these engines in case air gets in with the filter change? or will turning the truck on and letting the pump do the trick? Just wondering before I break something.

 

the filter lid will either take an 1 1/8 socket and rachet, or you can use a 3/8's rachet in the square drive in the lid.

remember to replace the oring in the lid. open the drain valve and let the garbage drain out. wipe out the filter housing with a lint free rag, to get the crud out of the bottom. shut drain valve.
lube the oring with diesel.
once you have the lid on, let the pump run until it automatically shuts off. then start the truck. might take a few cycles of this, but the 3rd gens self bleed.

 

do i have to unhook the battery? or will just the canister continue to empty regardless if the truck has power or not?

 

you do not need to unhook the battery. with the drain valve open, gravity will take care of the rest.

 

Don't use the ratchet in the square hole, it may crack the filter canister top, use a socket with a long extension. Do it when the engine is cold. Take a small plastic bag and position next the filter canister so you can drop the old filter into to avoid dripping fuel over engine and making a mess.

 

Here ya go... this may help ya


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

 

It is a piece of cake. I changed mine yesterday afternoon in less than 15 minutes. Just switch the key on after you are done and give the pump time to refill the canistor.

 

Hey you helped me get that fuel filter fixed, thanks a lot. I have another question on getting the belts off. I can see the tensioner and am wondering the best way to pry it down to get the belts off. I am changing the water pump, the pulley broke. Also do I need to move the alternator? Please help. I am new to this whole game and a mechanic wants to charge $400.

 

Re: the serp belt. you'll need a 1/2" socket wrench - just insert the socket stub/connection directly into the tensioner pulley (in the middle there is a square hole for the wrench connection). then you can push the arm down and that will free up the tension on the belt. then slowly let the tensioner flex back into position (don't let it snap back).

You may need a handle extension for your 1/2" wrench - i.e. a 12" piece of 1" pipe will fit over the wrench handle. that will give you more / easier leverage when pushing down and releasing the tensioner.

to give you more room to work, remove your air intake box.