Can anyone help with where to start?

I have a frequency driven vibration that begins to vibrate around 50 mph and quits around 75 mph. I assumed it was a U joint but when I did the fuel tank mod last week end, I checked the drive line joints and they all seemed to be fine? I can feel it in the steering wheel and in the seat? Not sure if it was a tranny deal bieng that its a manual or maybe the transfer case or drive line? Not sure how to check those? It feels and sounds like a front drive shaft out of line but I'm not in 4 wheel drive? Been rackin my brains on this one for several weeks now and can't seem to find it! Any Thoughts!

 

everything turns even when out of 4 wheel in these trucks check those u joints

 

Check front wheel u-joints. Jack up each side and rotate the wheel back and forth. Or, if the knuckle and surrounding is covered with rust... Unless you've replaced them you're probably due. Just did my second one yesterday at 105K miles. First one was at 90K. Vibration's done. I'd even paid to balance the tires a couple of weeks ago.

 

Jumper, are you speaking of the knuckle joint just behind the rotor on the axle? I had one go out on the drivers side and they had to replace the rotor, axle bearing, and U joint. I did not have the skills to do that and it cost me an arm and a leg! Now without those I will not be able to do the other side and it will cost me the others if that is what it is? Maybe I can cathc it in time before it ruins the other parts like the last one!

 

They probably damaged the hub assembly when trying to remove it to get to the u-joint, hence the reason you had to replace everything. They can be a real bear to get off sometimes but with care and patience it can be done without damage. But when they aren't paying for it they just get the BFH and go to town and then pass the cost of screwing it up on to you. Sounds like a front axle or front driveshaft u-joint to me and as stated - everything turns when in 2wd - its only disconnected in the transfer case.

 

Whoa, check it out before jumping to conclusions. It may not be that, yet. Maybe its a tire, or some other u-joint, or something else... But yes, the "knuckle joint." Jack it up and check it out. Roll the wheel back and forth and look for play in the joint and rust all around.

I'm not sure why you needed a rotor, but I just parted with $250 for the hub, $50 for the u-joint, and a new set of front brake pads, and 8 hours of my life getting that darn hub R&R'd and the joint and brakes replaced and brake fluid changed.

This was my second one. On the first one both the hub and the joint failed to the need of a tow truck. The second hub was still tight, but showed up a little noisy upon disassembly. So, I replaced it.

If the joint's bad, shop around for a mechanic. You don't have to use the dealer.

 

Ya I almost hate to take it in but do not always have the time to screw it up myself! I will check the front drive line as I was unaware it all turned? What was thier thought on that......Job security? If it is the axle knuckle joint, I will call it, do you know if that can be replaced without pulling the hub, rotor and such all off? I know its tight in there but did not know if you could get the old out and new in without some give somewhere?

 

No, it all has to come apart, wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor, hub/bearing, remove axle, disassemble inner and outer axle. Then reassemble in reverse order. Big job - hub most of all since they tend to rust tightly to the axle housing. I used anti-seize on the hub/housing mating surfaces. We'll see next time if it helped.

 

I crawled under there last night and checked all joints for sign of malfunction or movement. Jacked it up and spun tires and checked for grinding, wabble, friction etc... Nothing seems to be out of wack? The only movement I got was where the rear drive line meats the transfer case. I could move that area up and down about a 1/8" to a 1/4" or so and it seemed to be allowed by the transfer case rear mount? The rubber looked ok but not sure if that could be bad and at high speeds that is allowing the vibration? This is what I thought until I jacked up the rear of the truck and ran it up to 60MPH and no vibration. Figured it must be in the front end but again everything eas tight as best as I can check?

 

I had the same problem and it turned out to be a driveshaft hanger bearing. The bad thing about that is the cost of the bearing and assembly is almost as much as a complete driveshaft kit, but the kit comes with driveshaft, hanger bearing, and I think it may have had u-joints also.

 

Take your front driveshaft out and take it for a drive to see if that eliminates the vibration. Mine was vibrating at about 70 mph. Took the front driveshaft off and vibration was gone.

 

Randallp84 - I was trying that this evening and do not have a torix bit to get the front yoke off and it seems to have the u joints that do not have clips and I am not sure how to get those out? There seems to be a round plastic rod that runs through the end of the actual u joint and holds it to the yoke? Unfortuanately i am not much of a mechanic. Better with carpentry.