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HE351Cw sensor

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Old May 10, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Question HE351Cw sensor

Has anyone had to replace the sensor on thier 351cw turbo. How does this thing work. what does it do?
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Old May 10, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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From: McDonough GA
It controls the WG to control boost. They occasionally go bad and you are limited to 26 lbs of boost until its fixed or you clamp the boost reference hose.

One can take it apart and use it for boost reference to the WG with a boost elbow and get a resistor so the CEL goes off, or, remove it and replace with a bolt.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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Thanks for the responce. If you read my sig. You know what I got. Problem is I can only get 21 lbs boost. Any way to test the sensor?
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Old May 10, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
It controls the WG to control boost. They occasionally go bad and you are limited to 26 lbs of boost until its fixed or you clamp the boost reference hose.

One can take it apart and use it for boost reference to the WG with a boost elbow and get a resistor so the CEL goes off, or, remove it and replace with a bolt.
What is the cel- check engine light. My sensor is wired to 12 volts key power.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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From: McDonough GA
Originally Posted by dkimmel
Thanks for the responce. If you read my sig. You know what I got. Problem is I can only get 21 lbs boost. Any way to test the sensor?
Ah, I missed your sig. You have this on a gen 1 engine in a Ford, correct?


There is a rubber hose that runs from the WG controller to the WG actuator, when the controller is not plugge din you will only ge tlow 20's boost. Crimp that hose shut with a pair of vice grips or cut and plug the hose and you will have boost.

The CEL is in a truck that has the capability to read it, yours won't.

We are running HE351VE's on 2 gen 1 engines and can hit 40 psi easily on 12 cm settings. You should see 40 easily with enough fuel.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
Ah, I missed your sig. You have this on a gen 1 engine in a Ford, correct?


There is a rubber hose that runs from the WG controller to the WG actuator, when the controller is not plugge din you will only ge tlow 20's boost. Crimp that hose shut with a pair of vice grips or cut and plug the hose and you will have boost.

The CEL is in a truck that has the capability to read it, yours won't.

We are running HE351VE's on 2 gen 1 engines and can hit 40 psi easily on 12 cm settings. You should see 40 easily with enough fuel.
Will try it tonite.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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Is there a special tool for removing sensor on turbo. Looks like it would take a very thin wrench.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:49 PM
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From: McDonough GA
Might be, not sure. A good pair of pliers might work. Plugging the boost reference hose is all that needs done until you decide what to do.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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From: ruidoso new mexico
if you apply 12 volts to the solenoid you get 32psi boost. you can unscrew the solenoid with a wrench or water pump pliers on the housing. it is epoxy filled and nearly non destructible. the best thing for you to do is either connect the solenoid up to the key to where it is hot when the key is on or tap the volute for a boost elbow and use a special plug from ats in place of the solenoid. if you go this route sell me the solenoid. i cut it open and convert it to mechanical
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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From: McDonough GA
Originally Posted by carl48
if you apply 12 volts to the solenoid you get 32psi boost.
If he applies no voltage to it and puts in a boost elbow in the reference line he will have 40 psi and tunability.

The block off bolt is $40 plus and then one would have to tap the compressor for a boost source. Perfectly good source of boost with nothing to do but add a boost elbow.

Never could figure the reasoning on buying a $40 bolt AND tapping the compressor to get the same thing?
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
Originally Posted by dkimmel
Is there a special tool for removing sensor on turbo. Looks like it would take a very thin wrench.
i shaved down a 1" wrench to do mine. can't buy the sensor without buying the entire turbo from what I was told.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:32 PM
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From: McDonough GA
Originally Posted by cbrahs
can't buy the sensor without buying the entire turbo from what I was told.
Not true, here is just one place that handles them. Take a look at his sig, the sensor is totally superfluous.

http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page13.html
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
Not true, here is just one place that handles them.

http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page13.html
that is just what i was told but this was also 2 years ago. I did not need one but the turbo I got for a replacement (oem) did not have one in it as the original owner used it to keep CEL from popping. I just removed the sensor from my old turbo and installed into new one.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
Not true, here is just one place that handles them. Take a look at his sig, the sensor is totally superfluous.

http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page13.html
having the sensor on a ford with a 1st gen motor just looks cool! LOL
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Old May 12, 2010 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by carl48
if you apply 12 volts to the solenoid you get 32psi boost. you can unscrew the solenoid with a wrench or water pump pliers on the housing. it is epoxy filled and nearly non destructible. the best thing for you to do is either connect the solenoid up to the key to where it is hot when the key is on or tap the volute for a boost elbow and use a special plug from ats in place of the solenoid. if you go this route sell me the solenoid. i cut it open and convert it to mechanical
I tried to put power to solenoid , did each wire seperatly. still the same. both wires are black should I ground one?

Carl48 If I remove and replace soleniod, You pay for shipping you can have it.
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