Grid Heater Test
#1
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Location: Vergas, MN
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Grid Heater Test
Anybody with the know how to check a grid heater without removing the air intake assembly. I have 10 - 11 volts to the positive terminal at the heater when it cycles but the grid heater could be shot???? How about a resistance reading across the terminals? I've been having starting issues unless its plugged in. It's 25deg F here today and she won't fire.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
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Anybody with the know how to check a grid heater without removing the air intake assembly. I have 10 - 11 volts to the positive terminal at the heater when it cycles but the grid heater could be shot???? How about a resistance reading across the terminals? I've been having starting issues unless its plugged in. It's 25deg F here today and she won't fire.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Your ECM needs a minimum amount of voltage and if the grid heaters (and then the starter) are pulling the batteries down below that minimum amount, it won't alow the injectors to fuel the cylinders.
Make sure your batteries are charged up really good. Next time you are in town, have them load tested.
Good luck,
#3
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I'd say there's something else wrong. It should fire at 25 degrees without the grid heater. I've started mine all the way to 15 degrees without waiting for the grids to do their thing. (I had something on my mind, don't ask) It took a little longer, but it fired right off.
Turn your dome light on and cycle the key. The light should dim noticeably when the grid heater comes on. Like I said, 25 degrees isn't that cold, after a little cranking, it should fire. (It has to build heat in the cylinders by compression alone so it takes a little longer.)
Turn your dome light on and cycle the key. The light should dim noticeably when the grid heater comes on. Like I said, 25 degrees isn't that cold, after a little cranking, it should fire. (It has to build heat in the cylinders by compression alone so it takes a little longer.)
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After doing some digging it appears my grid heater is working fine so now it's on to other potential issues. Fuel pressure is around 7 - 10 while cranking when it is running it is fairly stable unless you mash the throttle. I have not done a flow test on the lift pump but will this evening. I suppose I should check the return flow as well. Any ideas on what is acceptable for return flow? I did replace (1) injector 3 months ago, I could hve more going down the tube.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#5
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Have you checked for codes? Turn your key to the 'run' position, then off, three times in quick succession and on the 3rd time keep it in the 'run' position. The codes will display in the odometer as "P0123" and when done displaying codes it will display " done". Write down the code(s) and bring them back.
There is a TSB on hard starting and you can find it here http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/14-003-06.htm about 3/4 of the way down. Again, one of the first questions it asks is the condition of the batteries. Load test them.
There is also a flow test to check to see if the lift pump is flowing enough volume/minute. You will have to search for that or someone else can chime in. Good luck,
There is a TSB on hard starting and you can find it here http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/14-003-06.htm about 3/4 of the way down. Again, one of the first questions it asks is the condition of the batteries. Load test them.
There is also a flow test to check to see if the lift pump is flowing enough volume/minute. You will have to search for that or someone else can chime in. Good luck,
#6
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After it starts if it is cold out it will cycle a few more times. . .you will know. . it sucks some current, lights will dim, voltage will drop belwo 12 for sure then after a few seconds it's off again.
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