Fuel Transfer Pump Retro Kit for 2003 Ram
Fuel Transfer Pump Retro Kit for 2003 Ram
Hi folks, I'm trying to find a part number for the fuel transfer pump retrofit kit.
This is the kit that puts the pump in the tank and removes the pump from the side of the filter housing. Local dealer says they can't get it. Need to find it elsewhere. Would like to go with this upgrade/solution. Don't want to just replace the original, which just doesn't seem to provide the volume, think its 35 gph. Just starting to look into the after market ones, ex BD Power, that put a pump in line by the frame rail. Looks like that is 100 gph pump. Not sure what flow the retro kit provides. I think volume is more important than pressure. Any other tips from those that have been through this are most appreciated.
Thanks in adavnce
Steve M
Romney, WV
stevenmartin@frontiernet.net
This is the kit that puts the pump in the tank and removes the pump from the side of the filter housing. Local dealer says they can't get it. Need to find it elsewhere. Would like to go with this upgrade/solution. Don't want to just replace the original, which just doesn't seem to provide the volume, think its 35 gph. Just starting to look into the after market ones, ex BD Power, that put a pump in line by the frame rail. Looks like that is 100 gph pump. Not sure what flow the retro kit provides. I think volume is more important than pressure. Any other tips from those that have been through this are most appreciated.
Thanks in adavnce
Steve M
Romney, WV
stevenmartin@frontiernet.net
Sorry, I wish I had saved the ones I ripped out of the bloody tanks......
Take it for what it is worth, but putting it in the tank only invites Murphy. A FASS or other quality aftermarket at least can be changed alongside the road.
The kit has the replacement module with the pump in it, wiring, and an adapter to fit in where the old LP was.
Take it for what it is worth, but putting it in the tank only invites Murphy. A FASS or other quality aftermarket at least can be changed alongside the road.
The kit has the replacement module with the pump in it, wiring, and an adapter to fit in where the old LP was.
I have the same thinking. Why go with a more expensive factory replacement when there are some good aftermarket units available. And a few of the them doesn't require dropping the tank for installation. One of the reasons why I went with the PureFlow Raptor pump.
MikeyB
MikeyB
Call Richard at Glacier 509-993-4923. You will not be sorry!
Excellent customer service, he has several different kits, and I swear, he will walk you through the installation over the phone if necessary.
Excellent customer service, he has several different kits, and I swear, he will walk you through the installation over the phone if necessary.
Thanks for the ideas. I'll look into the aftermarket pumps. Saw one from BD-Power that looked pretty good. Will check the others and also call the contact mentioned. This seems to be a widespread problem. Thanks
Steve M
Steve M
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You can get a new pump at www.genosgarage.com If it is a 30-04 04.5 179.00 They do have other pumps.
There's nothing wrong with the factory in-tank pump, design, reliability or otherwise. BMW has been using in-tank pumps for decades. They know how to build automobiles. Too bad it took Chrysler so long to catch on. All the hoopla about FASS, Airdog, what-have-you is just that. Nothing special about a fuel system in a box except alot of money for alot of fuel you don't need flowing back into the tank through the regulator.
Ace,
Have you priced the factory in tank pump assembly??
Can buy a really nice aftermarket pump setup for a lot less money. And not only that you don't have to go back to the dealer to get the computer reflashed for the new pump.
MikeyB
Have you priced the factory in tank pump assembly??
Can buy a really nice aftermarket pump setup for a lot less money. And not only that you don't have to go back to the dealer to get the computer reflashed for the new pump.
MikeyB
For most of our customers we just put the canister mounted pump back on and we just install a filter between the tank and the pump. Carter manufactures the canister mounted pump and its part #76110. Not sure why the canister mounted pumps have such a bad rap. My truck got 110k out of the stock pump. And the replacement pump has around 60k on it now with no issues. We have never replace a stock canister mounted pump with less than 80k yet. And have some customers running around with well over 100k on the replacement pumps. I think its more an issue with poor fuel quality and not having a filter between the tank and pump from the factory. Yes aftermarket pumps are nice when your trying to make high hp. But i think they are overkill for stock truck or someone just running a programmer. But as the sign say behind the counter "The customer is always right as long as they are paying for the repairs"
This has been great discussion. I ordered a stock replacement pump. Also ordered a catalog from Geno's garage. Looks like a good resource. I got 108k miles from the original. Really like the idea of the prefilter that comes with the new pump. Likely get 80-100k from the replacement pump. Will probably buy a spare pump too. I plan/hope to keep this 03 truck for the duration. I change my fuel filter often. Not going to it for now, but nice to know the BD Power or Raptor pumps are a possible alternative. FASS looks like overkill to me. Raptor kit replaces the line back to the tank also, guess for more flow. Seems like a sound idea. I just don't like the idea of potentially having to drop the tank again if the in tank pump would go out for the factory upgrade kit. Its just too likely you'll run into dirty fuel at some point. Anyway, when the part shows up I should be quickly back on the road. Thanks to all. If more comments, pls add as this may all help those that follow. Best regards, Steve M, Romney, WV stevenmartin@frontiernet.net
I bought the factory style lift pump from Geno's. After looking at it, I did the following:
1. Threw away the "pig tail" fuel line clamps - they are a big pain in the &^%.
2. Bought fuel injection approved screw style clamps
3. Bought a 2' piece of fuel injection rubber line
I trimmed about 2-3 inches of the new line and clamped one end to the LP and the other to the quick disconnect. (I did not install the inline filter as I believe that the original pump has a screen for large particles and suffers from lack of lubrication - I use diesel supplement)
Be sure to remove the plastic retainer tab on the metal fuel line, you don't need it and it will prevent the quick disconnect from snapping into place.
Also, when you take off the old LP, you will probably have to manually remove the old "o" ring from the input on the filter canister with your fingers. It is easy to feel. If you don't do this, you will not get a good seal.
The reason I used fuel injection quality components is for the tighter connection and tougher line. It only cost me $16.
Don't forget to use the hose guide clamp on the frame to keep the new line away from resting against the starter.
Hope this helps.
1. Threw away the "pig tail" fuel line clamps - they are a big pain in the &^%.
2. Bought fuel injection approved screw style clamps
3. Bought a 2' piece of fuel injection rubber line
I trimmed about 2-3 inches of the new line and clamped one end to the LP and the other to the quick disconnect. (I did not install the inline filter as I believe that the original pump has a screen for large particles and suffers from lack of lubrication - I use diesel supplement)
Be sure to remove the plastic retainer tab on the metal fuel line, you don't need it and it will prevent the quick disconnect from snapping into place.
Also, when you take off the old LP, you will probably have to manually remove the old "o" ring from the input on the filter canister with your fingers. It is easy to feel. If you don't do this, you will not get a good seal.
The reason I used fuel injection quality components is for the tighter connection and tougher line. It only cost me $16.
Don't forget to use the hose guide clamp on the frame to keep the new line away from resting against the starter.
Hope this helps.
I put on the Glacier Diesel Walbro 391 a few years ago before I started doing power mods and I really like it. There is NO way I would put one in the tank! I just bought a spare 391 for $110 and I can change it on the road if I ever need to. Craig
I can change mine with a flip of this switch if I ever need to:
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_29.JPG
It energizes a 40GPH Walbro marine inline on the existing fuel supply line:
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_27.JPG
If the in-tank pump ever fails, I'll replace it (at my leisure
) with an equivalent or better replacement pump that costs around $100 - not the entire assembly. I tested the Walbro by running with the stock pump disconnected and the only difference is it pushes an average of 2psi less all by itself, due to drawing through the stock pump, I assume. Running both pumps in tandem momentarily pegs the 15psi gauge, so I figure that should be good to supply some bigger sticks for the occasional play session someday, I hope.
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_29.JPG
It energizes a 40GPH Walbro marine inline on the existing fuel supply line:
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_27.JPG
If the in-tank pump ever fails, I'll replace it (at my leisure
) with an equivalent or better replacement pump that costs around $100 - not the entire assembly. I tested the Walbro by running with the stock pump disconnected and the only difference is it pushes an average of 2psi less all by itself, due to drawing through the stock pump, I assume. Running both pumps in tandem momentarily pegs the 15psi gauge, so I figure that should be good to supply some bigger sticks for the occasional play session someday, I hope.


