I have a front end knock. It seems like it only happens on a sharp bump. The truck has the upgraded steering from Dodge, Carli Ball joints, Timken wheel bearings, Billstein shocks. I also have a Red Head Box with a HBS steering brace and HBS sway bar ends. I do notice the HBS ends dont seem to stay tight and have moved a little. I was thinking about maybe changing them to BD ??

Also what about control arms ? Mine are stock with 300,000 km.

Any ideas or suggestions ?

Thanks

 

Was the steering gear replaced? New style has no up and down play in pitman gear which cause knocking noise in steering. Easy way to check is take pry bar and lift up on pitman arm using sway bar as pivot point. You will get 1/2 inch of play or more. That play usually will cause nocking noise in steering going over bumps. New gear box will stop that from happening. Or remove gear box and adjust the pitman gear. Care not to get it too tight and make sure you install lock nut to prevent the adjuster from turning if there isn't one there already.
Here is procedure if you are inclined to adjust gear box


ADJUSTMENT

CAUTION: Steering gear must be adjusted in the proper order. If adjustments are not performed in order, gear damage and improper steering response may result.

NOTE: Adjusting the steering gear in the vehicle is not recommended. Remove gear from the vehicle and drain the fluid. Then mount gear in a vise to perform adjustments.
1.Remove the steering gear from the vehicle (Refer to 19 - STEERING/GEAR - REMOVAL).
2.Mount the gear carefully into a soft-jawed vise.
CAUTION: Do not overtighten the vise on the gear case. This may affect the adjustment

3.Hold the steering gear upside down over a drain pan and rotate the input shaft back and forth several times lock-to-lock to discharge the fluid from the steering gear
4.Rotate the input shaft to the left stop and then back-off approximately 45 degrees. Using an inch-pound torque wrench on the input shaft, record the peak torque required to slowly and evenly rotate the input shaft clockwise ½ turn (180 degrees) starting from the 45 degree position. This peak torque reading is the preload torque. The preload torque must be within 2 - 10 in-lbs.
5.Rotate the input shaft to its center of travel (approximately 1.5 turns from either stop). Place the torque wrench on the input shaft with the handle in the vertical position. Rotate the torque wrench slowly and evenly ¼ turn (90 degrees) each side of center and record the peak torque measure on or near center. This total on-center torque reading must be 5 - 9 in-lbs higher than the previously measured preload torque without exceeding a total of 17 in-lbs. The value of the total on-center minus the preload torque is defined as the meshload torque
6.If required, adjust the on-center torque by loosening the adjuster screw lock nut and turning the adjuster screw until the total on-center and meshload torque readings fall within the specified values. Turn the adjuster screw clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease the torque reading. While holding the adjuster screw in place, tighten the lock nut to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.).
7. Re-check the preload and on-center torque readings.
8. Install pitman arm on the steering gear (Refer to 19 - STEERING/LINKAGE/PITMAN ARM - INSTALLATION).
9. Reinstall steering gear to the vehicle (Refer to 19 - STEERING/GEAR - INSTALLATION).

New gear box
If you replace gear box steering wheel will need to be re-centered. Make sure pitman arm is torqued to spec, they tend to loosen if not tightened properly. I have seen several lifted trucks with the pitman arm fallen off.

 

Yes the box is a newer Red Head unit.

 

Well i finally figured it out. It was my Hell Bent Steel sway bar bushings. They are too thin compared to the Energy Suspension bushings i used to replace. Also the Maxx Force end links were already worn out. Not really impressed with either of those products. I went with the BD end links. Way better imo. Very beefy !

I also have the ES track bar bushings and control arm bushings to install next.