What you're describing sounds like the steering shaft.

 

What would be the fix or how does one figure out exactly what in the "steering shaft?"

 

The only real fix is a new shaft. Some people say they've had luck taking it apart and greasing the joint but that's just a temporary fix. The problem with the shaft is that the joint gets play in it and "rattles" or "clunks" so you feel it in the wheel and pedals. Borgeson makes a nice replacement that seems to hold up well even for those of us that offroad hard.

 

So, I am having similar problems with my front end, and just had all the steering replaced for the TSB including the steering box. The clunk and poor steering problems went away... 6 months later and 14,000 miles I am getting the clunk back when i am going around a turn and/if I hit a bump. I am also getting the wondering back. I called the dealer and they laughed at me and said they remember me (had a problem w/them from the start).

This weekend I plan on making a steering box brace. I also want to look into adjusting the box, and going to find some bushings or "Luke's Links".

Does anyone have the OD of the link centers, the OD of the shoulder, and the Distance between the shoulders, and outside to outside. Are the Lukes links the only ones available or can I go to a local store and get poly bushings.

Also, as for the box adjustment, will I need anything special to re-fill the box, like putting a vacuum on it to bleed out the air?



I want to get this truck right!

I plan on towing a travel trailer this winter, possibly in the snow, and I want to have good control of the rig.



Thanks,
Joe

 

Well, I got the Steering box out and adjusted, and built a brace for the output shaft. (Like: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t278274.html )

I noticed that when I checked the play in the output shaft (in and out of the box) I had about 1/8"+ and I also had about 15* of input turning to get a response at the output shaft. When I took the lines off, and drained the fluid, I noticed a lot of metallic shavings in the fluid. More than I would like to see.

I emptied the lines, then flushed the lines by filling the tank and turning the wheels back and forth with the engine on, then shutting it off and draining it. Did that a couple of times, but still had kind-of dirty fluid, so I kept doing that.

After all that I went for a ride and checked it out. I found that I can go down the road and let go of the wheel and it does not drift off I then noticed that it does not wander, and I do not have to be constantly correcting for the steering. I also have a reaction when I move the wheel, so all seems well I just hope the box survives longer, because I am worried after seeing the fluid.


Next I want to replace the track bar bushings, just cause...



Thanks,
Joe

 

Retighten pitman arm nut to 225 ft lbs. I have seen some come loose after a few hundred miles requiring replacing pitman arm. Good job, most would not tackle.

 

Well, I am still afraid of the boxes quality/condition, because I just check the fluid again after flushing it and going for a ride, and it still has a metallic looks to it. I also did not have a torque wrench that went down below 25in-lbs, so all of it was done by feel So Again I feel as though I am not out of the woods yet. I have to drive to work tomorrow so that means I have 200 mile to put on it tomorrow. We will see.

There is a place in the road that the I ALWAYS get a clunk while I go around the turn, so I will see if this did it.

We will see, I hope this helps others by me posting my observations/experiences.



Thanks,
Joe

 

Put a MAGNEFINE filter in the return line.

http://www.emergingent.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm

As with the post above, good going . . even ordinary shops won't do a PS box adjustment anymore.

Good luck

.

 

I hope shops wont do it because they are lazy, not because it is worthless, and better off getting a new box

The filter is something I have been thinking about a lot today, but would it reduce my pressure, and then my steering will suffer. Granted I have metallic sh*t in the fluid.



** So my 200 mile commute I did notice a lot of good has come from my day of fun under the truck. I noticed that the truck handled a lot better going over a series of bumps, I do not feel the bumps in the steering wheel, and it does not feel as though the truck is loose. I also don't feel like I already worked 8hrs before I start my 8. All in all, it felt as though I was driving a different truck, but I don't know what helped more. -- On a neg note, I still have the clunk under the passenger side when making some turns, I would like to say it is less then before though.

I hope to try the Luke's links next for the track bar.




Thank you all very much, I know I completely Hijacked the thread, but it has helped.

Joe

 

I ordered the Luke's Links bushings, so I hope to have them this weekend to replace. Where the F is this clunk coming from?

 

I installed the MAXX sway bar end link kit (part#1226) yesterday. The slow speed rattling from the front end has been completely eliminated. My original links had 115,000 miles on them and were composed mainly of rust. The top broke off the driver's side link when I was removing it.
Tools needed:
-big hammer to knock out old links once the bolts were removed
-5/8 socket
-9/16 socket
-9/16 wrench
-torque wrench
-wd40 or pb blaster to soak old links before removal

 

Most likely front axel U-joints.

 

I was having a similiar noise a month or so ago & when I tore down to fix it, I replaced the wheel bearing assembly & u-joints. All was fine after this.
If you change your bearing assemblies, do a search and follow the steps on here! Much easier then guessing.
Good luck!

 

Member here Mr. Gadget did an excellent write up on front end disassembly for repair.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=ball+joints

 

I don't wanna sound like I know it all but I'm gonna anyways...
I have replaced EVERY replaceable part on my 07 and the only 2 fixes after spending thousands on my front end are :

1 - Tighten your steering box shaft play = FREE!!!!
2 - Replace steering shaft = $305.00

These 2 fixes = no front end clunk!!!!!! So guys, check these 2 simple things first before you spend all your hard earned $$$'s.....