Front diff leaking in rear at front driveshaft?
12-11-2009, 01:23 PM
#16
The dealer replaced mine (warranty) and it cost me $1000 to fix it (after warranty), lasted about 3 months. Over-torque was cited as the problem by the next mechanic and it took out the whole thing. That was over 50,000 miles ago.
12-12-2009, 07:20 AM
#17
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If it only lasted 3 months, I would have the dealer absorb the cost of the subsequent repair. I am quite sure that repairs done at Dodge dealerships are covered for one year from the date of the repair.
12-12-2009, 07:47 AM
#18
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The reaction torque at the pinion flange should be pretty darned close to ZERO in-lbs if this truck has any miles on it. The new seal will probably have 4 to 6 in-lbs of reaction torque on it when new. Be very careful when changing a pinion seal this way as if you have no pre-load on the pinion bearings you're going to spend a lot more money fixing it the 'right way' later on. Dealer tech probably doesnt know how to do ti the correct way (and most dont in all honesty - or dont have the right tools).
Dont forget the get the correct sealent for the pinion flange-to-drive pinion splines. Must be done and when that interface leaks is looks just like a pinion seal leak.
Dont forget the get the correct sealent for the pinion flange-to-drive pinion splines. Must be done and when that interface leaks is looks just like a pinion seal leak.
When I regeared my truck at 85K miles, my pinion torque to rotate was only about 3 in/lbs.
When I installed the new ring and pinion, I replaced the bearings, pinion seal, pinion nut, and installed a new crush sleeve. My final rotational torque readings were: pinion torque to rotate 19 in/lbs and total torque to rotate 37 in/lbs.
I agree that most dealer technicians do not know how to do this repair. I think that most of them would just zip the pinion nut off with an impact gun, replace the seal then zip the same pinion nut back on as if it were a wheel lug nut. I think that is why the earlier post(billie) had $1000 in repairs after he had the dealer replace his leaking front pinion seal.
12-12-2009, 08:32 AM
#19
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I answered my own questions
looked in the manual it said everything I asked about. RTV on the spindle, take the wheels off, drop the front drive shaft, mark the nut and record the torque, got it I think im ready.
12-12-2009, 12:38 PM
#20
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I had mine done by the dealer a few months back. They had the seal and the stearing gear replaced before noon. Maybe just a little too fast. I have a free spin kit waiting to go on as soon as I get some time. That should be the end of any future front end problems as I don't use 4 wheel drive that much. If the diff doesn't move it probably won't leak or wear. Also, I didn't have a front seal leak till I put full syn oil in the front diff. I've heard the syn oil leaks more.
12-12-2009, 04:15 PM
#21
Yes, but it was my choice not to. Its a long story but it was the last time they touched my truck.
12-18-2009, 09:06 PM
#25
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I'm throwing a freespin kit on mine and going to fill it with the thicker lube up front... The 140 syn lube to slow it up a little.
I haven't ever had to add any oil to it though, it just has some oil on the surface.
I haven't ever had to add any oil to it though, it just has some oil on the surface.
12-19-2009, 11:20 AM
#26
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Looks like I'm going to need to do this too as the seal just started leaking within the last few weeks. I think I may tackle it myself though as I have no faith in the dealer for something this complex and delicate. Just another reason why you should purchase a free spinning hubs kit for the front end.
12-19-2009, 11:53 AM
#28
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When my truck had about 5,000 miles on it, my seal was wet but not leaking (drops on the drive way). I had a free oil change at the dealer so asked that they replace the seal at the same time. They said with a straight face it was engine blow by that made the area wet with oil. I asked them how much oil was on top of the differential and they said again with a straight face, not any as it collects on the bottom of the differential. This was the last time they will ever see my truck.
I did notice that when I changed the differential oil the first time I use dino oil instead of syn and the weep stopped. The second time I changed it I went with a full syn oil and it is weeping again. Both oils were the correct weight and both were GL5 spec. Next time I change I will go back to dino and see what it does.
I did notice that when I changed the differential oil the first time I use dino oil instead of syn and the weep stopped. The second time I changed it I went with a full syn oil and it is weeping again. Both oils were the correct weight and both were GL5 spec. Next time I change I will go back to dino and see what it does.
12-21-2009, 08:47 PM
#29
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**** camper I feel bad for you those guys were idiots **** I don't know much but I know that blowby don't start at the bottom of a diff hope all works out for ya. Yeah I will go to a normal oil again when it comes time to change it again. I think I will go with lucas.
