I have just experienced failure of both front "U" joints. The truck has only 39K miles and I don't think this should be happening. Although the repair was picked up by DC under warranty, my examinaton of the failed pieces clearly indicates lack of lubrication as the cause of failure. These joints do not have grease fittings and they are needed. Unfortunately, there is no room for them without impeding the truck's turning radius. My query is how many of you have experienced the same fault? I believe that the replacement parts are also doomed for failure, but the next time it will be on my dime. Any thoughts on this would be very welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Steve

 

You can buy ones with grease fittings, they are actually cheaper then the ones without. So don't let the dealer say you can't buy them. Yes they fail because the cups fall off or get worn, and they dry out and are done. Just did the drivers side on my bros 06, 82k on the clock so not a ton of miles.

 

mine werent shot at 60 but i replaced them anyway when i had it apart i had to buy 3 new ones broke a brand new one!

 

One of mine went at 50k, could see the grease leaving the scene for the last 10k knew it was coming. At least now that I replaced it I know that it should last 2x as long as the other one. It was grease able.

 

My left ujoint started making a noise at 99000 miles and at that time I replaced both of them with ujoints from NAPA with grease fittings. no problems since.
Jim O

 

I just noticed my driver side on my 06 making noise this week. I have 52K on the clock.

Anyone know if this covered by the factory warranty?????

 

Would you happen to have a part number from them?

I just called NAPA this afternoon and the best the guy on the phone could come up with is "bring the old one in and we'll match it up" since he was showing 3 possible part numbers.

 

Mine were both replaced under warranty at the dealer with 35,800 miles. First repair my truck ever had. Seemed way too early but what can you do?

 

Mine died around 65k, of course I drove it that way for the last 15k miles. Finally got motivated and replaced them today. I replaced my rear joints at 35k. They all died due to lack of grease, all the new ones are greasable, thanks AAM!

 

I can get the number tommorrow, be prepared for sticker shock, mine was around 45$. Not your typical u-joint price of 20$.

 

A little over $90 for both of mine.

 

I thought I heard the greaseable joints arent as strong as the non-grease because of the hollow body... I know the greaseables should last longer, but anybody have any truth to this?

 

Greasable u-joints will be so close in strength to the non-greasable that it will make no difference for all practical purposes.

Where the difference will come in is after 30K-40K miles when the non-greasable u-joints are beginning to dry out from lack of lubrication. Then you will have to deal with a failure which will always happen at the worst possible time. Go with greasable u-joints wherever you can.

 

Your going to break way more stuff before a greasable joint fails. Especially the axle joints since they're 3 times bigger than the ones in the front driveshaft. The strongest axle shafts SCS Gearbox makes are gun drilled (hollow) with a lifetime warranty. So solid doesn't always mean stronger.

 

Axle joints are larger because they have to handle around four times the torque that the driveshaft joints do because of the torque multiplication of the ring and pinion.

Gun drilled shafts can save weight and add some torsional strength. U-joints are not exposed to torsional forces across their axis - if they are hollow they will end up weaker...abeit only slighty since the actual change in cross sectional area from being cross drilled for grease channels is insignificant.

While solid joints are technically slightly stronger, it is very unlikely that you will snap a greasable u-joint before the stub shaft will snap - that is the weakest link in the stock front end.