3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Flush motor or not

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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 02:31 PM
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Bad Ramer Jamer's Avatar
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Flush motor or not

My motor now has just over 150,000 on it. I do alot of heavy towing. Last time I changed the oil, I noticed it seemed really sticky. I couldn't get the drain pan totally clean. Should I flush the motor or not. What would be a good product. Thank's.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad Ramer Jamer
My motor now has just over 150,000 on it. I do alot of heavy towing. Last time I changed the oil, I noticed it seemed really sticky. I couldn't get the drain pan totally clean. Should I flush the motor or not. What would be a good product. Thank's.
Boy that's a can of worms that you are looking to open there. I don't know what to tell you on that. I've heard that you flush it and you probably move some of your nasty stuff out, but you may also move it to a place where you don't want it to be. If you get some junk in your oil pickup that wouldn't be good. Let the debate begin!
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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150 000!? i only have 147 000 on mine
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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I wouldn't recommend flushing engine. I've seen more people have to rebuild/repair/reseal engine because of it . It loosens up carbon around rings, head, bearings, etc, and then causes oil burning, lower engine compression, low oil pressure etc. Next time you change oil(at severe duty interval), make sure you have oil up to at least operating temperature, and let completely drain for a 1/2 hour or so, while you're doing filters, greasing etc.

This will drain nearly all of the oil in engine, and get rid of all contaminants better. Use a good quality filter, and brand of dino or synthetic oil. Check thermostat to ensure you are getting engine up to operating temperature regularily(especially in winter), as doing this will burn most sludge/contaminants from engine. Also don't cold idle unless you have a hi-idler kit.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:22 AM
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What about running a can of seafoam in there to help clean it out?
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:27 AM
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Don't give good advice like that.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:42 AM
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You might benefit from a Bypass filter from Amsoil or the FS2500.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 08:20 AM
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I would like to know what oil and filter you use. "A lot of heavy towing" should keep your engine hot. I use Delo 400 and the Stratopore filter and with less miles than you have, loaded, my oil feels the same as when it went in, but looks black. What do you mean by "sticky"?

As an aid to solving your problem, I suggest you get an oil analysis. That might tell you if there's something in there.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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As for engine oil I've been using straight up dino juice and no problems... Take notice this is rated for Cummins use...



And Fleetguard filters...
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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I've flushed two high mileage diesel engines in my life.
Should have learned from the first one, both had to be rebuilt within hours of being flushed.
Don't do it.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rare1
I would like to know what oil and filter you use. "A lot of heavy towing" should keep your engine hot. I use Delo 400 and the Stratopore filter and with less miles than you have, loaded, my oil feels the same as when it went in, but looks black. What do you mean by "sticky"?

As an aid to solving your problem, I suggest you get an oil analysis. That might tell you if there's something in there.

I use the Valvoline Blue that came in it from the factory. I also use the Flletguard/Strapore filter from the Cummins dealer.

By sticky, I guess what I really mean is when it get's on something ,,,like my hand's, and drain pan, it is hard to clean off. It's like it leave's a black residue behind. Not sticky like gum. I hope that make's sense. When I clean my drain pan with brake cleaner, I can still see some black in there.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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I may have a cure for you. I have built high performance marine engine and sometimes they blow head gaskets and the it gets some water in the oil, what i usually do is do a 5:1 motor oil/trans fluid, works awsome. But i have never tried this on a diesel, dont know what the differences would be. just my though.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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The black stuff is soot from the combustion process. It is VERY fine and bypasses the piston rings and enters the oil stream. Diesel oil keeps it in suspension to be drained out. It is so fine it is hard to clean up because of ionic attraction to any surface and it gets stuck in surface porosity. Your findings could be normal.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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Yup! and the more soot in the oil, the higher the viscosity goes until you can really tell it's loaded up because it does feel a little "sticky" when cold.. It's one of the parameters that modern diesel oils are engineered for, lower viscosity increase on soot loading...

My old pre-chamber diesel would turn the oil black immediately after changing the oil!. REALLY black hands and everything else that stuff would touch

You might consider the bypass oil filter or centrifugal filter route AFTER you make sure you don't have any glycol etc. in the oil.
I wanted to install one of the little centrifugal filters on my '97 shortly after I got it, but the darn thing runs so clean that I just can't justify the expense of the centrifuge OR a fine bypass filter. But, I don't tow either...


K.
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