When the A/C compressor goes bad, debris from the compressor can flow into the rest of the AC system. Aside from replacing the compressor, there are other recommended AC related parts that should be replaced when you replace your AC compressor.

1. Does anyone have an AC diagram for the 2003-2007's? (or if it is specific, then '03/early '04)

2. What are those other AC-related recommended parts?
The receiver dryer is one. Since I have an '03/early '04, it seems that there is slow leak in the upper AC hose, which I will replace now. Other parts?

3. How do you "flush" the AC system?
There maybe a 'catch 22' with this because I don't want to replace parts then (guessing) blow air into the rest of the lines to get the debris out which means I blew debri into the new parts. And the vice versa of blowing debris from the 'to be replaced' parts into the lines / other components. So, I'm sure there is a sequence as to how it should be done.

 

Usually the other items to be replaced are the accumulator/receiver dryer and the expansion valve or fixed orifice tube depending on which is used.

As for flushing you could use compressed air and brake clean or remove all parts...

Either way both are definitly a must if you don't want to trash another compressor as well as ensure the system is going to work.

 

I would not use brake clean on an A/C system. Refrigerant oils are very sensitive to foreign chemicals/solvents. They make flush kits designed for A/C systems. Compressed air will be useless, not to mention you should never use compressed air - always compressed dry nitrogen. Regular compressed air has a high moisture content - bad. Air or nitrogen will only flush large particles. The problem is the acid/contaminants mixed with the oil residue left in the system. I would recommend a product such as Rx11 flush or similiar, also don't forget to vacuum the system to less than 500 microns to get out any moisture or non-condensables. Or leave it to a professional if you don't have the proper tools or knowledge. Good luck.

 

Where can this RX11 product be purchased generally? Looks like a good product and would like to get ahold of some.

 

Yeap, it is a very good idea to flush the system. I would. On our trucks we do not have a replacable orifice, so you have to replace the whole line. Yes, do the receiver/dryer also. I used some A/C flush when I used to do it. Dump it in the lines and put a rag on the other end, then used compressed air to force out the nasty into the rag. When rag is clean and no metal, then you are good to go. Flush the condensor good.

 

Curious, before this began, the AC was blowing warm air (yes, I probably have that upper hose leak for '03/'04). Since the freon leaked out, what's left in the AC system / lines?
Aside from the AC oil, is there anything left to "reclaim the AC from the system"?

 

There could still be some residual pressure, just not enough to trip the low pressure switch to turn the compressor on. I also recomend using an A/C flush, but do it on each component separately. Replace the drier and the orifice ( it is in the line ) . Then make sure to add the correct amount of oil for each part replaced. Also make sure the compressor either A) has oil in it from the manufacturer, or B) make sure you put the correct amount of oil in it!

 

Here's what I did.
After driving less than 1000 miles (after the A/C compressor burned up internally) it was the A/C pulley that froze up, which caused the belt to snap. (here's the related thread)
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...post&p=2238971

Here’s what an A/C shop did.

Flushed the evaporator, condenser and lines (excluding the liquid line).
Replaced the A/C compressor, accumulator container (aka. receiver dryer), liquid line which had the built in fixed orifice tube (aka. expansion valve),

I replaced the belt tensioner even though is was okay – meaning the pulley still turned but you could feel that it was not rotating smoothly (it felt like it needed grease in the bearings). For a 5 yr old pulley, with 95k I decided to replace it just to be on the safe side.

I cleaned the alternator / generator pulley because when the belt snapped, there was a lot of rubber debris in the pulley grooves. Now, the new Gatorback belt would seat properly. (I previously had a Mopar belt, but I did hear the ‘chirp’ at shut-down. For now, the chirp is gone with the new Gatorback belt.)

Thank you all for your input.