I got my oil collection kit in the mail today from Blackstone labs, just in time to pull a sample before getting the oil changed later this week.

I've gone so many years and cars with the 3,000 miles/3 months regimen that even the 7,500 mile Schedule B seems like an extended interval to me. Other threads on this site put me onto the oil analysis idea, so I'm going to try it out up front, and then probably get a repeat analysis every couple of years to see how it goes. Having actual data on the condition of my specific truck will be interesting, both for oil condition and for engine wear.

 

Thanks everybody and thanks for being nice when I ask stupid questions.
Still learning about the diesel

Bought Rotella T 15-40 cause its starting to get warm out maby i'll change to 5-40 syn in the winter.
Can u only get fleetguard filters at Cummins shops, or thay sold other places

 

One more thing is anyone from north Jersey or southern NY state?

 

You can order them here......at Geno's Garage. They also sell filter "kits" or packages if you desire including fuel filter and air filter or various combinations.

http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...D=1003&CATID=1

Also, I think you can get them at most any big rig shop too.

 

After alot of search and read in here I found out about this stuff.http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...sp?product=113 Cummins was asked to consult on this formula, and subsequently Valvoline was able to put the Cummins symbol on the package. I guess sort of a seal of approval. I just bought an '03 w/ 69k, and I changed it over to this formula. So far, so good. It's at NAPA.

Cheers

 

Okay, do'in my 1st oil change at 5,000 miles on my new 2005 1-ton. I'm going with Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 and Fleetguard Stratapore LF16035 oil filter.

My owner's manual states: "Caution! - Fill the oil filter with clean oil before installation" (page 343). Do all you Cummins "old-timers" do that? If I don't do that, will horrible things happen to my engine? I'm asking 'cause I never did that with any prior vehicle I've owned (gas, not diesel) and all was well - no problems.

I don't want to fill with oil 'cause the darn filter is mounted in such a bad place that's difficult and awkward to reach - I can't remove the old filter or install the new filter without tilting it into position for mounting - so, any oil in the filter will spill while trying to get it into position. Note: I'm doing all this mounting labor from beneath the engine and so any spilled oil will likely spill on me! Talk to me - (please?)

 

If you have the special adapter that fits on the oil filter from underneath do it that way. I always used a normal oil filter wrench and went over the tire and pulled back on the inner fender well. You can slip the oil filter wrench on the filter from this position. Pull on the wrench until filter is loose. Than slip a plastic bag over the oil filter from under the truck and finish unscrewing the filter and let drop into the plastic bag.
When installing a new filter, put some fresh oil on the rubber gasket and fill the filter about half-way. These reason for this is to pre-lube the materials inside the filter, so you don't have the insides come apart during initial starting from the pressure. Haven't heard of any diesel filters blowing up, it's just a good practice to fill them half way before installing.

 

Thanks rossn2! The zip-loc plastic bag idea sounds good to me - I'll do that next time. Yup, I do have the '6 Wrenches in 1' adapter sold by Geno's Garage - so I'm accessing the filter from below. Filling the new filter only half-full of oil should not be a big deal - think I can do that without spilling during installation - at least I hope so! Sure wish the filter was easier to access! There's a wiring harness crossing directly below the filter which doesn't help matters.

 

Okay, all done! No problemo! 3 comments - 1) I almost installed the new filter with the old rubber gasket still stuck to the metal mounting "disc" on the engine - I did that once before on my Ford van and it was a mess when I started the engine! - I always make sure the gasket is still attached to the old filter after I've removed it - and, if not then check to see if it's still attached to the engine filter mount; 2) As I partially filled the new filter with new oil, I tilted the filter and let the oil seep into all the holes inside the filter so the oil would soak-in; and 3) I do like the engine oil drain plug - very nice to only need a 3/8" socket wrench and not need a socket!

 

My practice in changing oil is:

Always put as much oil in the filter as it will handle even if the filter lays on it's side (sometimes all you can do is to soak the filter media)

KNOW what the dealer is using if thats where the oil is changed. I have found that the dealer uses the same oil for everything so, I take the oil in that I want them to use. In fact, I take the filter in that I want them to use. The local independent garage does this and charges me $10 for their work.

 

FWIW, my 1st oil change cost me $39.05 - that included 3 gallons of Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 and a Fleetguard Stratapore filter. Cost also included sales tax on oil (Sam's Club) and shipping charge on the filter (Geno's Garage).

One more thing - the darn oil drain pan I bought at Wally World ('Blitz' brand 15 qt) is a POS - the hole in the bottom of the "bowl" (on top of drain container) was too small! It started to overflow and I had to put the engine drain plug back in the drain hole until the oil in the "bowl" drained completely into the drain container. It's a good thing the oil wasn't hot or I would've burned my hand! I'm planning on returning the 'Blitz' pan to Wally for a refund! Anyone else have this problem?

 

Yep, I bought something like that years ago, and it doesn't work. Neat idea for the oil container and drain pan to be the same thing, but the oil comes out of the engine too fast and goes into the container too slow.

For my cars, I have an extraction pump that will suck the oil out of the dipstick tube. I can get almost all the oil out, and then go under and pull the oil pan drain plug for the little bit that's left, and change the filter. On my Cummins, this doesn't work because there's some kind of splash guard that won't let the siphon pump tube get down into the oil. With the cars it makes oil changes super easy, I'm kind of bummed out that I can't do it with the Cummins.

12 quarts of dirty diesel oil and no place for it to go - man, you must have had a tense moment there.

 

So, RDM, what are you draining your Cummins oil into these days?

 

One solution to that is to install a Fumotovalve that replaces your drain plug. I used to have that problem too, with the oil rushing out like Niagara Falls. With the Fumotovalve you can control the flow. It is really nice to use when collecting oil samples if you ever test it. I just let some flow. Stop it and get my sample container then flow a little bit into the bottle. Stop it again and put my sample up. Then finish the draining.

If you don't want to use a Fumotovalve or something similar, you could just use a 5 gallon bucket placed under your oil pan and let it drain into that. Plenty of room and no restriction.

 

i run 0w40 esso dx-3 syntheric in my 04... i believe it is CH rated, but with no egr system, i am not overly concerned about it not meeting the CI/CI+ rating