Exhasut Manifold
i was worried about the same thing, still dont have gauges but im not as worried about drilling anymore... it's really not worth the time of taking off your manifold. just use bunch of grease and a stick magnet and sweep the hole out after you drill and you will be perfectly fine. some people even stuff the tailpipe and drill with the engine idleing and let the shaving blow back out of the hole, heck i've seen some people just drill and let the shavings just do whatever. I haven't heard of anyone hurting anything when drilling.... your best bet is to just grease the bit and tap, and collect as much of the metal as you can with the magnet inside the hole...
Cover about 75% of the tailpipe with tape. Have it running as you drill and the junk will blow up and not fall into the manifold. I did this with the drill, and with tapping the hole. Just make sure you wear saftey glasses to keep the stuff out of your eyes!!!
AAron
AAron
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Another vote for not removing the manifold.
I started on a cold engine and turned on the exhaust brake. The exhaust brake will stay on at idle while the motor is cold to help it wam up, but you have a limited time becuase it will turn off when the motor reaches opperating temp. I ran the motor while I drilled and tapped. I can't believe a that a single metal chip went through the turbo. The back pressure from the exhaust brake blew them out the hole with considerable force.
If you try this wear goggles along with a full face shield, long seeve shirt and leather gloves.
I started on a cold engine and turned on the exhaust brake. The exhaust brake will stay on at idle while the motor is cold to help it wam up, but you have a limited time becuase it will turn off when the motor reaches opperating temp. I ran the motor while I drilled and tapped. I can't believe a that a single metal chip went through the turbo. The back pressure from the exhaust brake blew them out the hole with considerable force.
If you try this wear goggles along with a full face shield, long seeve shirt and leather gloves.
Originally posted by BigBlueDodge
what does the ATS manifold give you that the stocker doesn't. I've seen many people on here have the ATS manifold. Its got my interest, I just don't know the benefits it provides.
what does the ATS manifold give you that the stocker doesn't. I've seen many people on here have the ATS manifold. Its got my interest, I just don't know the benefits it provides.
Originally posted by HorseHauler
i know of a couple things it does, the ATS 3-piece manifold is in 3 pieces rather than just one. this is for allowment of expansion and contraction cause by heat. it probably does more but not sure. also the manifold already comes with a hole ready for the pyrometer to be installed to my understanding. it probably does more but im not sure...
i know of a couple things it does, the ATS 3-piece manifold is in 3 pieces rather than just one. this is for allowment of expansion and contraction cause by heat. it probably does more but not sure. also the manifold already comes with a hole ready for the pyrometer to be installed to my understanding. it probably does more but im not sure...
Graphite600
You can drill just about anywhere on the manifold for the Pyro install. Nearest the turbo would be the best but most drill it near the # 3 cylinder as that is the farthest back and yet reachable. For tapping, it does require a special tool, A tap set. You can get them pretty cheap at a auto parts store or wally world. It just cuts threads into the metal and that is it. Easy job and I bet under $20 for all the parts if you don't have them.
I just used grease while drilling and compressed air while tapping to keep it blowing away from the hole, doubled checked with a pencil magnet (bought at store). You could use a can of compressed air if you don't have a compressor.
You can drill just about anywhere on the manifold for the Pyro install. Nearest the turbo would be the best but most drill it near the # 3 cylinder as that is the farthest back and yet reachable. For tapping, it does require a special tool, A tap set. You can get them pretty cheap at a auto parts store or wally world. It just cuts threads into the metal and that is it. Easy job and I bet under $20 for all the parts if you don't have them.
I just used grease while drilling and compressed air while tapping to keep it blowing away from the hole, doubled checked with a pencil magnet (bought at store). You could use a can of compressed air if you don't have a compressor.



