Picked the CTD up Sunday w/9 miles on the clock. Brove right onto the freeway and noticed a drive train vibration that started at 1900 rpm. It's very slight, you can hear a drone associated with it and it shakes the rearview mirror just enough that it makes sharp lines blurry, lige car edges. Recently I got it up to 2400 rpm and the vibration stops. The vibration seems to be more a speed thing than an RPM thing, only happens around 68-70 mph until 90 or so (I had to go that fast w/only 400miles for research purposes ) or 2400 RPM.

I know some engines have harmonic zones where they just vibrate in a specific RPM range (Lycoming 360 and 540's are like this). If this were so it would happen in 1st, which is doesn't. It feels like it's coming from the tunnel. Could this be my front end? I don't feel it in the steering wheel, but I knoe since there is no locking hubs that I'm spinning the Dana 60 all the time (will be adding hubs shortly). The rear driveshaft is 1 piece and has a harmonic balancer on the trans side of it. I was thinking tires but it feels like it's something connected to the truck shaking it, like a T-case, trans, or engine. or driveshaft.

Just wondering if any of you had similar issues. Especially wint a new truck right out of the box.

I know `00'ish Fords has some out of balance driveshafts that were wearing out rear seals and tailshafts on the 4R100s.

Aslo, is that burning oil smell I keep smelling th eassembly lube or protective oil burning off the engine?

 

If you can run it up to 72~mph and slip it into neutral and let it coast down throught the vibration zone... If the vibration is still there it's driveshaft and we're still waiting for the TSB for an aluminum driveshaft. If the vibration is gone as you coast down, it's normal engine vibration. It was much worse in the '03s with no damper on the power brake booster hose. Engine vibes feel more like a buzz. Drive shaft vibes are a lower frequency vibe that you'll feel in the seat backs and floorboards. Mine is slight but it bugs me to no end. I pull off and slow to almost a stop before I put it back in Drive. I don't know if it'll rip it's guts out to put it back in Drive while flying along or not so I don't chance it.

 

do you have the new 610 ?.

 

Take out the front shaft and it is quiet as a kitten, put it back in, and buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz My dealer has one on order should have it friday, I;ll go back tues and see what happens.. I tried to get him to take one off the 05's and his boss would'nt let him....... jee evena used truck...... oh well, it's thier problem, surely if ALL of us kept after DC or the dealerships, it's only a matter of time till a fix gets found..........Or else I'm getting a Long Bed..........

 

I had the same problem at 70mph, the rear drive shaft was out of time "yokes welded wrong". No problem since it was replaced.

 

I'm glad to hear about the front and rear driveshaft probs - not that you are having probs but that I'm not the only one. I throw these forums in the dealers' faces - they can't BS at that point. I had my wife take the truck in today and as I figured they came back no fault found on the vibration. Were also rude to her once they found out I didn't buy the truck there, especially with just over 400 miles on the clock. Us southern boys don't take to kindly to that. No offence to the yankees but these jokers up here are full of the bull. So I'll be in there tomorrow and I'll take one of those boys out with me. I mean it's like a switch, 70mph = vibration. 69mph = no vibration.

Thanks for all the feedback!

 

According to the dealer it is. The sticker says "Cummins 600 Turbo Diesel Engine". It is a 2005 year model - on the sticker. According to the website the `05s are 610s. The invoice the dealer sent me said 610 ft/lb but on the top and bottom of it said "This is not an invoice". Other than a big assumption I have no real proof that it is a 610.

 

There should be a sticker on the side of the engine that says what it is.

 

Mine just says 325HP - no torque specs.

 

Where in Chicago? Maybe I can help with a good dealer? Or help explain how things work around here. It's different....but it works I guess.

I know a lot have had really long battles with this issue, and some are still looking for a fix. Mine had similar vibes, they reindexed the driveshaft and it's much much better.

 

"Where in Chicago? Maybe I can help with a good dealer? "

Right next door to you, Gurnee, (W of 94). Took her back to Gurnee Dodge today and the mechanic that rode w/me at least acknolowedged the vibration existed and we had it noted in my file. Seems like getting someone to validate you have a problem is the hardest part. Diesel guy was gone for the day. I'm calling again tomorrow.

Steven, always got cold ones in the fridge. PM/e-mail me and we'll meet up sometime

 

I figured I'd resurect this thread as I see a new one this same thing in the works... Same question/ same answers.

I dropped my truck off at the dealer Friday afternoon. I told them that the vibration did not go away and is getting worse - It's not getting worse, staying the same, but they don't need to know that I also now have a pencil eraser sized hole in my door weather stripping and still don't have my cab plugs. The dealer didn't know about any of the 3 issues.

I luckily already had a mechanic ride with me and verify the vibration the week before, so it was noted in my file. Since the dealer didn't know about the TSB's on the weather stripping or the part #'s for the cab plugs (got it off this site - THANKS!!!), I told him I would call and give them to him as soon as I got home. I called him back after I got home gave him the info and it wasen't 15 minutes later that he called me back with this info:
Dodge knows about all of the problems, he said first.
The cab plugs are NOT supposed to be in there from the factory but I could buy them at $1.50 each.
The TSB I gave him for the weather stripping was for an `04 (the one I got off Geno's) but there is one out for the `05's (he didn't giive the #). He said that Dodge does not have a replacement part for it yet but they are developing it and it should be out in a month or so. He said it would have a "dip" molded in where the door rubs. I mentioned that it would wear the paint off, he said, "let it tear and if the paint is damaged it will be repaired".

Now for the Vibration stuff:
He said That Dodge is full aware of the vibration and that they are having them pull BOTH driveshafts and send them off to be balanced. I'll have my truck back Monday night or Tuesday for sure.

Not too bad, he gave me a 1500 QC 4wd (4.7L) loaner - can't really complain, it is a similar/like vehicle. All I got to say is man I'lm glad I got the CTD. This thing is getting a steady 14.2 on the overhead, and has the same size bawls as my chihuahua. The TC unlocks everytime you breathe on the go peddal and downshifts 3 times as fast with half the results. My CTD with 1200 miles is already getting around 17mpg. BTW: No vibration on the 1500.

I've seen a couple posts of people getting driveshafts replaced, one or the other, and others getting them retimed (yolks aligned) - mixed results.

My dad with his `99 PSD said lots of the PSDs came with unbalanced driveshafts, yolks welded slightly off center, installed out of time.

We'll see if the balancing does the trick. I hope it fixes it. But if it does then we all may be suffering from quality control issues - not what I was hoping to encounter, what's next? We've been teasing the PSDs and DMs about similar issues. guys this is a biggie!!! It's not a few of us, it's more like a few thousand.

Results will be posted when I get her back.

 

I have a similar problem with my new, early 3500 HO dually. (555) However, this is unique to the engine speed. It starts at about 1900 and gets worse as speed increases. It is mostly felt on the clutch pedal, but at higher speeds, it can also be felt on the accelerator as well. I believe the problem is most likely the clutch pressure plate fingers not being of either equal height or slightly off center. It was present the first time I drove the truck. I now have warrantee authorisation to dissassemble and check it out. Also, at high speed the depression force of the clutch pedal becomes lighter. Is this normal?
Steve-l

 

The 99 and up Mustang GTs hat this prob too. Mainly chirping/squeaking accompanied the vibration in the peddal. Everytine you step on the clutch the pressure to apply it seems different. Problem wound up being the throw out bearing. Would get real bad sounding and feeling too, like something was slapping around inside the bell-housing. Ford never TSB'd or replaced them because they are a normal wear part and the dealer could adjust the peddal/clutch and apply enough constant pressure on the bearing that the symptoms would subside until your warranty expired (clutch adjustments are done by lifting up on the clutch peddal). My `00 GT is a mechanical cable - no hydros. It was so embarassing that in drive-thrus I would apply slight pressure/rest my foot on the clutch to quench the noise. On the hwy the banging and clattering was still there. A pulse to the foot for every knock, a shake to the stick with every clatter. And one helluva soft mushy feeling peddal.

The chirp was there from mile 14 when I bought it. It turned into a knock at 40k miles, a knock & clatter w/little vibe at 60k with peddal feel going down the toilet the whole way. The vibe in the go peddal may be some transfer vibes from the clutch peddal. I don't have a manual, but usually all 3 peddals are 1 assembly in the same frame...

All that for a $20 throw out bearing.

Not a CTD story but may be similar.

Good luck!!!

 

Was looking through Geno's at the TSBs and cam eacross ths:
http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/06-001-03.htm

Hope it helps...