You should not have been charged anything. All ulsd has a turquose tint to it, and even if your fuel was contaminated the engine would most likely have started and ran rough or stalled, but a flat out crank and no start is fuel delivery related, or a complete intake air blockage, period. The cause of the lack of fuel is a whole other story.

 

I've got an International 656 that I use agricultural diesel in. One of the fuel delivery drivers told me that the agricultural diesel was not lubricated (not the same additives) like regular road diesel. Maybe I shouldn't have listened to a truck driver.
And I could swear a tech from Cummins Southern Plains told me the same thing!
I guess it doesn't really matter because I don't interchange the two - too expensive if you get caught! But I do know for certain in some rural areas you can get a very poor quality of diesel.
Anyway, thanks for the information about the two types of diesel!

 

sadly there are way too many dodge dealer service centers that dont know much about these cummins motors.

 

You guys think maybe low fuel pressures from the xzt killed my CP3? Maybe I should run some kind of aftermarket fuel pump since I am running xzt box. Seems like I read on here it has pulled some trucks rail pressure to 0psi.

 

You did a good thing by taking it to another dealer. Sound like a bunch of hacks to me. I've worked in a dealer and yes, cetain parts fail almost religiously, at times they will do some crazy stuff and show different symptoms. Even following the manufacturers illustrious "trouble tree" at times will not give any answers. Unless you have worked on a car/truck with 30 plus computers you have no idea what it takes. Then again, some people who claim to be technicians are just simple hacks, hang a part here, throw another there and keep blasting away with the shotgun until something fixes it.

If you have good fuel pressure or supply to the injectors then it could be engine related, compression or fuel, faulty injectors. I have not worked on any of the new common rail engines, just big truck stuff. Also could be a sensor. When cranked does smoke puff from the exhaust like it's fueling the cylinders? Codes? I would not believe that they did not do a code scan before they started saying fuel issues. It's a tricky business, diagnostics on todays vehicles and if you don't know the systems on the vehicle it can be even more of a headache.

Hope you get it taken care of!!

 

The XZT should not have affected your fuel pressure by an amount enough to kill your CP3 unless your beginning fuel pressure was way too low. I have the STD box and can pull the pressure down some, but not to 0psi.

Did you get a fuel sample just in case? There are plenty of labs around to have fuel tested, just look up a bulk fuel supplier in the phone book, call one and ask them for info regarding labs and testing. They will direct you to one.

Since they connected a different fuel supply and your truck would still not start, that rules out the fuel but it does not rule out something failing in the fuel system.

You could have a bad CP3, there are some here that already experienced having one replaced under warranty and it happened in the same kind of mileage range as you. Hopefully the new dealership/tech will be much better than the previous one and your truck will be fixed quickly.

I am suprised at what everyone is going through with the dealerships and diagnostics. The service/repair manual has a very good, outlined bunch of diagnostic test procedures. If you follow them you can easily determine what is failing based on what has not in the sequence. This is truly about following a procedure and determining at what step you have failure, nothing difficult, just time consuming. I might be good for you to download the manual or pick up the CD and familiarize yourself with it. Just reading the information will go a long way towards helping you to understand what may/or may not be involved with your problem. Even if you cannot fully understand all of it, it will help you to know more and maybe even help you in making good/bad choices with regard to what you do with your truck in mods alone.

Stuff does fail prematurely, that is what a warranty is ALL about, that's why we have them. Look at the bright side, it failed WHILE under warranty and should be taken care of under that warranty. Who knows, the new parts or this repair at this time may have saved you a lot of $$$'s down line if it never fails again. If it does fail again, you will certainly know what's wrong after all of this.

I am fortunate in that my tech INVOLVES me in the process. He is fortunate that I always take the time to become familiar with the service/repair manual before going into him with the truck. Two heads are better than one when something is stumping.

CD

 

When I tried to start it that morning it was trying to start at first and blowing white smoke. Then it got to where it wasn't blowing smoke or trying anymore. If you barely pressed the accelerator it would try and start again and more white smoke, but never actually started. If you didn't press the accelerator it wouldn't even try though. I really think all the guys at the first place did was hook it up to computer and it couldn't tell them what was wrong so they just assumed it was fuel. I know they couldn't have done much to it because he only charged me 2 hours diagnoses and had it for 4 days.

 

...of course with you hiding the fact that you run a chip, which modifies data to the ecm, they may not have had much to look at. I would have like to known that it was there and at least have the understanding that any stored DTC's could be erronious. I would also check any connectors associated with the chip to make sure there was no terminal damage or corrosion (yes I've seen green terminals on trucks that were equipped with aftermarket products that apparently didn't seal the connectors as well as oem). With that info I would clear everything and start from ground zero...... and even if you have the manuals, your not going to get far without a few special adapters for fuel return flow measurement and the abitlity to monitor the fuel rail psi and setpoint.

Not sure on the chip you are running, but there are a few out there that raise the rail psi and that has been known to cause cracked injectors, or blown fuel rail relief valves.

.....and please don't "fog" the engine with ether.

 

.....and please don't "fog" the engine with ether.
J-Body, I'm wondering, if the intake heather isn't at risk of cycling on, whats it gonna hurt to give the engine a little snort?

 

Your not going to achieve anything on a common rail by aiding a "no start" situation with ether. It's not going to prove a thing other than you can really make a lot of nasty noise and smoke.

 

Your Tow Box didn't do anything to that truck!! I can assure you that you do not want to let the dealership even have a hint that you had the box on there. After they work on it for a while and can't come up with anything they will start to find things to blame on you and try to skim out from under the warranty, I PROMISE. When I was having trouble with my tranny I went through the same thing and I let the dealership get the better of me. Mine turned out to just be a chaffed wire but after working on it for three days and just throwing parts at it they started to get nervous and blaming it on me and telling me they would void the warranty on the whole truck because I had gauges and an intake and my piaa lights wired in to the electricals under the hood. I ended up paying $1200 in Labor after they put several $400 solenoids on it, one on my dime, and an $800 valve body. It was all a line of B.S. I don't want you or anyone else to fall victim to the crooks that own and work at these dealerships any more. All they are worried about is the bottom dollar and keeping DC off thier backs.

 

if you rub the red fuel between your fingers it feels a little more greasy like more lubrication to me.

 

I would drain your fuel filter housing and see what the fuel looks like if they havent already. I think a cp3 will take alot more abuse than just a quad box before it fails. they seemed to be alot stronger than a vp44

 

Slimpicken
Just where would you buy your Dodge Diesel without these "dealers" ? Think about what you say! You made several electrical modifications to the truck and you don't think that this could have any ill effect? Think again. As much as I disagree with most engineers, that wiring and circuitry was designed for a purpose, and you added additional stress to it, henceforth in my opinion voiding your warranty! One bad dealer does not make them all crooks! You modified your truck and had to pay the price. DEAL WITH IT!

p.s. If they put on several 400$ solenoids and an 800$ v.b. and you got out of there for 1200$ , they obviously didn't charge you for everything, and if you were so G.D. smart, you would have fixed it your G.D. self!

 

moderators are gonna have fun with you guys lol