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Dino VS Synthetic Motor Oils

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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #31  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by brianblack138
Amsoil bypass filter. EaBP100 (claims to guarantee 2micron bypass filtration)
Where did you buy yours from?
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 12:34 PM
  #32  
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From: Laughlin, NV and on Lake Fork east of Dallas.
Where can you get Delo 400 LE?
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 12:43 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mdbrown
Where can you get Delo 400 LE?
Costco near me has been selling it in 6 gallon boxes for a while..
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #34  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by pdogg
Costco near me has been selling it in 6 gallon boxes for a while..
Is that 6 one gallon jugs? And whats it run u?
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 01:00 PM
  #35  
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From: Phoenix, AZ
yeah, 6 - 1 gallon jugs... right around $60...
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #36  
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Advanced, Autozone, Riley's, etc. You can also get Valvoline Premium Blue Classic, API-CI4+ group 2 oil at most Napa stores. It is available in 5 gal pales.
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 06:10 PM
  #37  
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From: Laughlin, NV and on Lake Fork east of Dallas.
Thanks to all of you for the terrific information.
MD
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:50 PM
  #38  
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From: McKinney, TX
Originally Posted by mdbrown
TexasCTD - the zinc issue you raise seems to be the central concern among those folks seriously evaluating which oil type to use. On the other hand, I can't recall anyone claiming to have destroyed a camshaft while using CJ-4 - but who knows?? Since CJ is now about all we can find, the point has been reduced to essentially an academic exercise I suppose.

However, having said that, what exactly are you using as a ZDDP addative - brand, where to get it?


MD....Not sure of anybody that has destroyed an engine running CJ blend oils. Im not saying that CJ is bad oil......I just know that in a test on TDR there was a retired oil engineer that said the CJ blend was "ho hum" at best and that the CI-4+ better protected our engines.

I just changed my oil and used 11 quarts of Rotella 15w50 CJ blend and 1 quart of Formula 1 Diesel Cam break in additive. (my cam is stock but I am running F1 valve springs) http://www.f1diesel.com/helix.html
IM going to send in an oil sample to Blackstone Labs to see how it does after a couple thousand miles or so. My plan (per Don M) is to run 1 quart now but then go to 1/3 of a quart on subsequent oil changes.

..
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:53 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by bansh-eman
Where did you buy yours from?
svtrich is a member on here who helped sell me the parts I needed. Not sure if he's still an Amsoil dealer, but you should send him a PM if you're interested. He was able to put together an individual parts list that saved me a good bit of money compared to buying the whole kit.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 01:28 PM
  #40  
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From: Forest Grove, Oregon
Originally Posted by TexasCTD
Regular Mopar ATF +4 is synthetic. I use it, and change it every 20K...no problems so far at 130K.

..
Mopar ATF is not synthetic its made from group III base stock. From All Par: The use of Group III base oils is probably the leading cause for ATF+4 being a more expensive fluid than ATF+3 (which according to the paper uses a Group II base oil). The paper noted that one alternative was to use synthetic Group IV base stock, which are even more expensive than the ATF+4 solution,
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #41  
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It amazing how much time we spend on ALL vehicle related boards discussing oils. The thing is there have been very few if any actually catastrophic failures that anyone has been able to pin on the oil.

I run the regular val premium blue. have for 130,000 miles and have 12 gallons in the garage (great sale at autozone and I get rewards points) for future changes. I have been running the autozone atf+4 fluid in my goerend trans for more than 40,000 miles with no issues and I run the cheapest type F atf I can find in the race car.

I wonder how much money I will have saved when I have the same amount of miles on my truck as the ones with high $$$ oil. I would agree that some are better than others, but I don't think it is as nearly as critical as it is made up to be for our normal drivers and that the intended use makes a difference.

I have an uncle that uses walmart diesel oil in his truck and right now he is over 300K miles.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:18 PM
  #42  
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The most telling point, to me anyway, is that no one has had any lubrication issues or catastrophic engine failure using any of the brands mentioned. I would not lose sleep over using any of the those oils. I have Schaeffers in my truck now, but just bought 6 gallons of Valvoline Blue 15-40 for 9.99/gal. I guess I am like most of you, just use an approved oil and oil filters.
As far as CJ oil being Ho Hum, just look at the UOA's on BITOG. The Proof is in the Pudding.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:22 PM
  #43  
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Ron P - - ding ding ding, you have the subject mastered and put to bed. IMO
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #44  
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^^2nd that. I use syn for our temps but no other real reason.

I had a guy I worked with that changed his oil 6 times in an old international pick up with 300k miles. Not recommended obviously but suggests a point. Decent oil and filter will probably outlast you and the engine.
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mdbrown
Where can you get Delo 400 LE?
WalMart.
They also carry ATF+4 transmission fluid under their own brand (in a blue bottle). I have not heard anything bad about it.
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