Terry's right. And, he does it with out sounding like a butt-head.

 

I researched the Delo Extended Life Prediluted 50/50 Coolant/Antifreeze concentrate shown in Tim's photograph. This product is an ethylene glycol based formula and contains Chevron`s patented carboxylate technology and deionized water. This product does not contain conventional inhibitors like silicates, nitrates or amines. The information in the data sheets suggest that carboxylate technology is recognized as an OAT formula or Organic Acid Technology. OAT formulas contain no silicates for corrosion protection. The Hybrid OAT or HOAT type coolants specified for our trucks contain low silicates in the formula,but not enough to fall out of solution. Keep in mind if the product says "NO Silicate" it is not a G-05 HOAT formula.

The Delo Extended Life Coolant/Antifreeze does not meet Chrysler MS 9769 specification and manufacturers’ requirement as per their data sheet. It does mention that the Delo ELC is recommended for all "heavy duty" cooling systems including Cummins; however, this list suggests that this product is marketed for over the road semi trucks and earthmoving equipment.

The following list contains readily available coolants that are G0-5 Hoat formulas.

Mopar 5 Year/100,000 Mile with (HOAT) Embittered -Chrysler spec-MS 9769
Valvoline Zerex G05 Hoat - Available in concentrate and 50/50 premix
Ford / Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant - Ford Part #VC-7A

 

The sarcasm in you posts is overwhelmingly obvious. Maybe you should try your own advice?

 

Great info, thanks for sharing it. I researched here, https://www.cbest.chevron.com/msdsSe...e&lbLanguage=e


Let me clarify my position. Just because the manufacturer recommends it, does not mean that it is the best product for the vehicle. I agree that you can not go wrong using recommended fluids/parts etc. However, how many times has the aftermarket come to the factories rescue with solutions to problems that factory engineers could not figure out? Let me provide an example. I run a lubrication products in my 06 that are not factory recommended, here is a list.

In both front and rear diff's- Lubrication Engineers Monolec 703, 80W90 paraffinic based gear oil. It out performs the "factory recommended" fluid in all categories with the only exception being extreme cold, (arctic) temps. Not a concern where I live. Not a hint of metal in the fluid with heavy towing.

Monolec 8800 15/40 paraffinic based engine oil, on my way to 20k oil change interval with UOA support. This oil exceeds all recommendations.

Monolec 1150 EHP trans all in the tranny and transfer case. This fluid is rated my Lubrication Engineers as "suitable for use" in Dodge transmissions. It does not meet the ATF+4 specification, due to some of the ingredients, yet it outperforms it in all categories.

I have done uoa's on all the above with "sample at next service interval" being the only message and all wear metals being < than universal averages.


I will stand corrected if the Chevron extended life coolant is not HOAT. I will be calling my chevron rep to have a discussion in regards to this.


I feel that regardless of whether or not it is hoat, it is a superior product that will provide better protection and service for those whom do not use their trucks as grocery getters. With 26 years experience I have learned to look at, and then beyond factory recommendations, effectively stepping outside of the box.

Thanks for your post.

 

So I just got back from my shopping trip. 4 gal. Zerex G0-5 from Napa:check. 4 gal. distilled wtr. from grocery store: check. Coolant bypass hose and clamps from dealer (ordered): check. I'm gonna flush and fill this weekend, weather permitting. Had a ?, though. How can I get all the water back out of the engine, not just the rad.? Does it have block drains? I've read in these threads that you only get 5 or so of the 8 gallons out through the rad. That is a lot of old coolant (if don't flush), or straight wtr. (if do) left in the system. I would like to start with all new if possible. The truck is new to me, and I'm doing all the fluids and filters so I have a clean slate, as I have no maint. records on it. BTW, great info in this thread and on this site! Has been worth it's weight in gold to me already. Thanks all!

 

I would suggest drain then fill with and equal amount of DISTILLED water. Run up to operating temperature with heater on. Drain again, add more distilled water, again run up to operating temp with heater on. That will get most of the old coolant out. I would use only distilled water for flushing. For example down here our tap water comes from a limestone aquifer plus has fluoride and chlorine added. Anyway, once flushing stages are complete, add 3.5 gallons of Zerex G-05 and top off the rest with distilled water. I think the cooling system holds 7 gallons or so (check your owners manual or search on forum for the exact capacity).

 

OK Guys, lots of GOOD info in this thread but lets please leave the attitude out of it.

As far as the argument goes on whether to buy pre-diluted product or not it is a personal choice. Some feel they save money by buying it straight and then mixing it themselves (you still need to purchase distilled water to mix it, if you are not you are making a BIG mistake)

While others feel they save time and money by purchasing it already mixed with the necessary distilled water... and thus skipping a step.

Which ever camp you belong to, it is the CORRECT camp for you so lets stick to the basics shall we?

 

no one has distilled water out of their taps, but for .59 you can get a gallon of it at the supermarket

 

Thanks kokalit! I've usually just flushed with the garden hose, then drained it all from the block before refilling. Your way will work just fine, just a few extra bucks for all the distilled wtr. No big deal there, and way better than chancing that some tap wtr. is left in the engine. Now I just need the weather to cooperate so I can put all these fancy fluids and filters to good use!

 

Hi Mopardik,

I changed my coolant in October utilizing the distilled water method as mentioned by kokalit. Just so you are aware, the total capacity of the cooling system is 7.4 gallons.

 

I didn't know you could get G05 pre mixed. All I was able to find was straight coolant

 

Great to know. Thanks Dr. Dizzle!

 

I realize this thread is a few months old.. but want to throw .02 in here.

I am a big fan of the Chevron/Delo/Exxon/Cat ELC coolant; however I did not put it in my truck here is why.

HOAT isn't compatiable with any non-HOAT engine, and it would be impossible to guarentee that you got all the HOAT out of the enigine on a flush, unless you are doing a rebuild or 7-8 flushes.

I recently flushed my coolant system 5 times and it still came out with a little OE color. The enigne holds about 2-3 gallons after its drained; so it will take many flushed to diliute the HOAT enough to be able to mix non-HOAT.

So in went Zerex G-05. Here is my write-up if it helps anyone. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n-t262131.html

So.. on the subject of pre-diluted or not I have an opinion that has nothing to do with cost. Like I said a few paragraphs up the block holds about 2-3 gallons of coolant/water/etc (depending on flush level). So if you add pre-mixed until it it full you will only have about 4-5 gallons of pre-mix (7.4 gal system).. which will be 25-40% coolant, which is much too low. 50:50 is the OE mix, and is the min you want.

 

There is no need for HOAT it is a sales gimmick. Tell me why GM has so many frickin problems with water pumps and INTAKE GASKETS. I work for advance auto and we see it EVERYDAY. Our cast iron blocks are the same as they were 20 years ago right? Maybe a little different but it is a sales gimmick really. Aaron

 

The block doesn't care... however the HOAT coolant isn't compatiable, so unless you get a 100% flush the new coolant and the HOAT won't mix. That is what makes the hoat required.