codes and truck dying help
codes and truck dying help
I have a 04 all stock except for a supe chips flash pack. It is set to the tow setting. Today I am sitting at the stop light and it just dies. Turned key off and back on and it started right up. Went to take off from light and it dies again. Again it started right back up. My first thought was water in fuel. So I opened the fuel seperator and let it drain a little bit. Truck started and seem to run fine for a few miles and then dies again. I stopped at gas station and put some cleaner additive in tank and again opened the valve and let some fuel out. Truck started and drove fine with no power loss for several miles. Then all of the sudden it started sputtering and died again. THis time it would not start. A friend said he thought the fuel filter was clogged. So I pulled filter and drained canister completly. Reinstalled cap with no filter just to get me to the part store. Turn the key on and I can hear a pump running continually. It does not shut off. Now my battery is getting weak and the truck still wont start. I pulled the canister lid and it is still empty even after letting pump run for 5 mins or more. I filled the cannister up with fuel and jumped started the truck. It seemed to run fine all the way to the parts store which is over 10 miles. I had the part store test the batteries one at a time and he says both batteries are bad. I reinstalled filter and truck started and ran fine all the way home. Now I am getting 3 codes using the key p0148, p0628, and p2509. Could it be that the batteries are causing these codes or do I have bigger problems like the lift pump going out?
Broke in Tx.
Broke in Tx.
found out this morning the pump I was hearing was not the fuel pump. I broke what I thought was a winshield washer line that had a vacume on it and the little pump over by the Ac was on. Re-ran line and pump went off. Now when I try to start the truck I only here a clicking sound and I dont think the pump is coming on. But I dont know where the pump is for sure. Is the lift pump easy to change?
Your lift pump should still be on the side of the fuel filter housing. Changing them isnt that bad. Do not let Chrysler put their "Upgrade" in tank pump in. You should look at changing it to one that is going to mount back by the tank so that it will push the fuel up to engine. We have a couple of different options for you. The FloMax pump we have would be a good match to that truck.
I got the P2509 code, and it was for bad batteries, replaced them, had the code cleared, and it never came back. If your lift pump is mounted on the filter housing, it is probably shot, and that is the P0628 code. If you are not going to mod the truck, the intank pump replacement is fine, as I went that route, and am very happy with it. If you have under 80k, the dealer will replace it with the intank version free of charge under the emissions warranty. If you have more than 80k, but less than 100k, it will be replaced for a $100 deductible under the Cummins warranty. If you are going to mod your truck or are over 100k, then an aftermarket pump is advisable, BD, Airdog, Fass etc. Just my .02
I am starting to get a LARGE volume of calls on people that have the in tank pumps starting to fail even less than a year. It leaves people stranded and it is a big job to change. I take probably 3 calls a day now on in tank pumps failing. I would personally not reccomend the in tank pump. Not just to sell more pumps. If you could still get the OE pump on the filter housing on a stock truck I would say go that way.
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I am starting to get a LARGE volume of calls on people that have the in tank pumps starting to fail even less than a year. It leaves people stranded and it is a big job to change. I take probably 3 calls a day now on in tank pumps failing. I would personally not reccomend the in tank pump. Not just to sell more pumps. If you could still get the OE pump on the filter housing on a stock truck I would say go that way.
From what I understand they no longer make the stock pump and thats why they are putting the in tank pump in. This is according to my dealership who wants 1750 for the install. I found another guy who said he would do it for 750.
Thanks for all the replys and help. First step is to change batteries then if I still have problem Im sure its the lift pump. I am not rodding the truck up or anything. I only have the programmer to help with milage. This truck is strictly a work truck, so as close to stock as reasonbly possible is best for me.
Thanks for all the replys and help. First step is to change batteries then if I still have problem Im sure its the lift pump. I am not rodding the truck up or anything. I only have the programmer to help with milage. This truck is strictly a work truck, so as close to stock as reasonbly possible is best for me.
Very very few posts on any of these diesel sites about in tank pump failure is what I go on and is all I can go on.As far as $1750 I thought the in tank pump was less then $500 in parts and about 2 hours labor.If at even a $100 bucks a hour just were in the heck does $1750 come in.That old style external pump kept me nervous so I got mine swapped out to the in tank.Dealer near me a little dealer for a while was getting a fair amount of trucks towed in with old style lift pump failure.Two or three a week but had never seen a in tank failure.They had two retro kits in stock when I took mine in to get changed.I'm going to look up the intank kit and see what it costs.I'll post back.
Orignal Mopar Parts.com the intank pump KIT is $318.00 the INJECTON PUMP is $1200 plus (wholesale/retail etc.That I bet is the $1750 price you got..Whomever looked up parts for you looked up the WRONG part. 3.0 hours at most to install the retro kit which it also needs a reflash that goes with it.


