Much to my surprise, the clutch on my truck has suddenly started to slip. With all the vehicles I have owned in the past, this is the first vehicle that has ever developed a slipping clutch. I only have 146,000 miles on it. What sort of life should this clutch have given me? I seldom slip the clutch much, even when towing relatively heavy and this is another reason that I am surprised that it is now slipping. The slipping only started two days ago and now will even slip in 6th gear if I stand on it.

Here is where I need advice. Should I just install a new OE clutch plate and pressure plate, or upgrade to a Southbend or something similar? Seldom tow much any more and the engine is stock. If I go for something other than OE, which clutch and model?

 

My 08 started doing the same slip. What i found was the rear main had developed a leak and glazed the clutch. I was at the 185,000 mile point at the time.

I would say that if the flywheel is in good shape, based on your stock configuration, OEM should work fine for you.

I went with OEM and it was still going strong right up to the point that forced the trade. Miles was 280,000. My Dual Mass flywheel disintegrated and took out the clutch, bent the input shaft and cracked the tranny case. (Didn't slip a bit up to that point)

 

For you I would second a stock unit.............

 

Never had any clutch shudder which sometimes happens when oil gets on the friction surface. Never did understand how oil can get on the aft face of the flywheel when it leaks on the forward face and centrifugal force throws it out.

Thanks for the advice so far. Tomorrow will go to the local Dodge d(st)ealer and price the parts. Would like to also compare these prices to SB parts.

 

I second the use of a stock clutch. The OEM part from Dodge is expensive, somewhere around $1000. I have been using Rock Auto for replacement parts for a few years now and they have been superb in both price and quality. I believe pressure plate is $135. Throw out bearing is between $16 and $68, Pilot bearing is $6 and the disc is out of stock at the moment, but as you can see a super savings compared to OEM.

 

don't need it heavier if not in a construction/ranch environment; no cattle towing.

why pay the higher cost for OEM as the parts are the same fiber and steel/alloy heche en mexico. just don't have the Chrysler adhesive mix.


hiya stan!sorry you are having movement problems....

 

When I did my 06 I found I could get the OEM parts (LuK) far cheaper from Amazon or even local auto parts retailers than from a Dodge dealer.

I paid $500 for the whole kit- DMF, clutch disc, pressure plate, and both bearings on Amazon when the dealer wanted $1200.

I recommend OEM too. The aftermarkets for my truck (G56 6 speed) were about the same price as the dealer price for OEM. Like another poster said though- Rock Auto or another retailer can get your the OEM parts for way less.

 

Hey, leave MY movements out of this. I am just fine, it is my truck that is having problems.

 

Still thinking about which route to go. Called a couple of SB dealers and told them what I wanted. They questioned me about how I use the truck and both were surprised at the fact that a 2003 truck had the original clutch. They told me that as much as they would like to sell me a SB clutch, that I should consider installing another OE type clutch.

Took a long look at the Rock Auto site. Have used their stuff in the past with zero problems. They offer quite a range of kits. Am not familiar with LUK, Exedy, M-pact, Valeo, Ams or Sachs. The Sachs are the most expensive for some reason. Anybody have any advice on which is the best brand if I decide to go that route?

 

LUK is an OEM equivalent, I would have zero issues trusting. Sachs is another, actually for the first gen guys, most used to run a stock Sachs 13" before trusting an aftermarket clutch.
I don't think you will go wrong with either of those choices. I haven't heard of the others, so no advice there.

 

Mexstan, I was having the same issues with mine. It went out at almost 150k and only had two issues, the release bearing was making noise and the clutch was slipping. I know why it was slipping, I have too many upgrades for the stock clutch and hauling 10k pounds up a 7% grade, its bound to slip. So I knew I needed a new clutch, but trying to find the right on for me proved to be more challenging. After removing it, I did discover it was the original LUK clutch and still had alot more miles on it. I was very pleased with the stock clutch, I just wanted a clutch that could handle the add-ons which I put on the truck, so I went with the 05-185 LUK clutch. I would recommend the one on Amazon, which is the LUK original for 540 since you dont have any added power.

 

Have another question. I have a choice between an organic disc and a cerametallic disc. What are the pros and cons for each type of material? Presume that the OEM disc is organic?

 

From what I was reading, the Ceramic disc will last longer and can take more power but gives you a more aggressive clutch. Some people complained of a jerking action when taking off. They were stating they could not feather the clutch, it either had to be fully engaged, or disengaged. The organic clutch is a less aggressive and I believe they are the same material used when they come stock. I know some of these clutch manufacturers try to integrate both by putting a dual disk to give the driver the best of both worlds. The clutch I went with is organic on the side toward the flywheel and ceramic on the side toward the pressure plate. That way, you can get a long lasting semi aggressive clutch.

For your application, I would go with the organic since you dont have any power upgrades. Thats my two cents

 

LuK and Sachs are German companies that make some of the best clutches in the world. In the Porsche and BMW communities- rarely will you find someone installing anything else.

Not exactly the same application as we need for a Ram, but it gives a good idea on just how picky some of LuK's and Sach's customers are, and how punished their clutches can be.

It's one of many reasons I ended up with a LuK replacement in my mercedes G56

 

Thanks guys for all the answers. After due consideration and asking a lot of questions, plus some internet research, finally ended up ordering a LUK 05179 organic kit. This kit includes the flywheel. Will probably not need the flywheel, but as it was not that much more expensive, decided to go that route as it is just too much hassle to get one at the last minute if I needed it. It is already on the way and I should have it in my hands next week.

The local 5 star Dodge dealer wanted about 6.5 times more money than Rock Auto, (shipping included) plus could not supply the parts for weeks.

Have one more question. The rear main seal may be weeping a bit, so should I replace it while the flywheel is off? If so, which seal should I get and where to order it from?