BMH95

I do have the bolts loosened up. I was using an extension and socket as the push rod, but was watching the metal bracketry bend as soon as I put pressure on it. I was leaving dents in the diff housing from the extension, but no movement from either hub. I can't see continuing that method without breaking something important. For example, I was pulling on the wheel hard enough that it had gotten to a hard stopping point. Every bushing and bearing was compressed to it's max. No dice. I just can't seet hanging on the wheel with that much force without crushing or bending something important. I'm going to try a heavy puller and a hammer.

vzdude

With a puller, there isn't really anything to push against. You can try the hammer, but either get different bolts to beat on, or make sure to use an old socket. You might try a porta-power. Same principle as the power steering method. Like was said before.....try to work it back and forth. This method has worked for me flawlessly numerous times.

BMH95

You can't push on the axle? I tried beating on them with an old socket and a 10lb sledge for a few minutes.

vzdude

You can, but the problem is , you will pull the wheel flange out of the bearing. You really need to get the bearing housing out of the axle. I've seen guys do it before, and have seen them use slide hammers too. It could ( probably will) ruin the bearing in the process.

BMH95

Ah, I'm ok with pulling the bearing out, because it's totally shot anyway. So what I'm thinking, is that if I get the big OTC puller, then I can yank the bearing apart. Once that's apart, maybe I can use the mounting bolts (backwards) and the puller on the housing out? I've also seen the jaw style pullers that can be used while putting the jaws inverted into the opening and pulling it out that way. We'll see what happens. Luckily, my parts won't be here until later this week. Although I'm wondering if a slide hammer bolted to the housing would pull that out if the bearing was separated. What do you think about that strategy?

billie

That isn't the method I was suggesting. The steel pin goes against the bearing bolt heads, loosened a few threads, and the axle yoke (the place where the axle goes inside). Nothing to bend here. The steel pin is about 4-5" long. I used a stel punch that as the right length Not trying to insist, just help out.

Good luck.

Cya

vzdude

Worst case scenario, I have used a chisel to get the hub bearing to start a gap. Then just keep working it around until the gap gets big enough to use a bigger tool. Beat the heck out of it......at least you'll feel better! Like billie said though.......you are pushing against the bolt heads and the axle housing right?

BMH95

I was pushing on the bolts and housing, but even that had the steering and track bar in a bad looking shape. I might try it again. Rock auto just called and said they are out of everything I need anyway.

hhhhhhhhh

rfigy

My 2005 3500 has the same clunk noise. I got a headache reading all the threads. So far I had the center drag link replaced, inner tie rod end replaced. It also wants to steer right. One would think that with all that the clunking would be gone. STILL GOT THE CLUNK. Now they say I probably need stabilizer end links. I'm tired of all this. I don't know if I'm going to do it or not. Maybe I'll just live with it, you can't hear the clunk at highway speeds anyway. Good luck guys. I guess the clunk ROCKS ON. Only 57,000 miles on this beast. At least the cummins runs well.
Rich