I have been running a oiled airaid filter for the last 150k miles. I'm not having any issues "yet" but after reading some of the threads on here I have decided to switch to a dry filter. I have looked up in the turbo and see a very dark hole. What would I clean the turbo with? Anything else I will need to clean while doing this? Thank you in advance for your help.

 

WOW!

77 views and no one has any suggestions!

 

carb cleaner maybe? seems to me like itd work and shouldn't hurt anything that i can think of.. maybe few more will chime in.

 

I wouldn't use any cleaners it could damage seal in turbo or could cause a runaway if enough flamable cleaner get's into engine air intake system.

 

+1

Do not use spray solvents directly in the turbo, especially if it is mounted on the engine.

Besides a runaway, the grid heater could cause a very massive expolsion if it lit a flamable mixture in the intake.

A shop rag or paper towel with the solvent on it can get some of the carbon or oiliness cleaned up. Be very careful not to nick the turbo blades and don;t go too far in around the blades.

I have never tried this but a water mist from a household hand sprayer while the engine is running, in small, short bursts might do some good. I have heard of big stationary industrial engine turbos being cleaned this way.

Keep in mind, the oil, carbon, and smudge is not hurting anything at all as it is.

If you have dirt or dust from the air filter bypassing then just wipe it out by hand. JMO

 

I would not recommend it, you could kill the turbo easily.

 

don't use anything... jsut put the new filter in and go.
As others have stated, introducing any type of solvent into the intake stream can cause some unexpected results.
Any residue on the compressor wheel should not be an issue.
On LARGE displacement stationary NG engines, we actually have a turbo wash system for cleaning the compressor side of the turbo. Its just as matter of pumping distilled water into the engine while running at full load.
Could be done on a Cummins like the Snow Performance system injects water/meth

 

INSPECTION

Visually inspect turbocharger for excessive oil residue. Clean turbocharger if necessary (Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER - CLEANING).

Visually inspect charge air cooler tubing for excessive oil residue. Clean charge air cooler tubing if necessary (Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/CHARGE AIR COOLER AND PLUMBING - CLEANING).

Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded mounting studs.

1. Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks. The following cracks are NOT acceptable:
Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing that go completely through.
Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer than 15 mm (0.6 in.).
Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect bolt through-holes.
Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together.
2. Visually inspect the impeller and compressor wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some impellers may have a factory placed paint mark which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack. Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify that it is not a crack.
3. Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor housing for an impeller rubbing condition . Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists.
4. Measure the turbocharger axial end play:
a. Install a dial indicator as shown . Zero the indicator at one end of travel.
b. Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and record the measurement. Allowable end play is 0.038 mm (0.0001.5 in.) MIN. and 0.093 mm (0.0037 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these parameters, replace the turbocharger assembly.
5. Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clearance:
a. Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler gauge between the compressor wheel and the housing .
b. Gently push the compressor wheel toward the housing and record the clearance.
c. With the feeler gauge in the same location, gently push the compressor wheel away from the housing and again record the clearance.
d. Subtract the smaller clearance from the larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clearance.
e. Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) MIN. and 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assembly.

Removal

5.9L DIESEL

1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the turbocharger elbow (1) (Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/EXHAUST PIPE - REMOVAL).
4. Disconnect the exhaust system from the exhaust hangers and move the system rearward.
5. Remove the exhaust elbow from the turbo (1).
6. Remove the bolts from the turbocharger oil drain tube (8).
7. Disconnect wastegate command valve connector (6).
8. Remove two lower turbocharger mounting nuts.
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Disconnect the turbocharger air inlet hose (1).
11. Disconnect the turbocharger oil supply line from the turbocharger (3).
12. Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe from the turbocharger compressor outlet.
13. Remove two upper turbocharger mounting nuts.
14. Remove the turbocharger and gasket from the exhaust manifold from the top of the vehicle.
15. If the turbocharger is not to be installed immediately, cover the opening to prevent material from entering into the manifold.
16. If replacing the turbocharger, transfer the turbocharger oil supply fitting to the new assembly. Tighten fitting to 36 N·m (27 ft. lbs.).
17. Clean and inspect the sealing surface.
CAUTION: The Wastegate Command Valve, and Command Valve O-ring are the only serviceable components on the turbocharger. The turbocharger itself is serviced as a component. Do not attempt to repair the turbocharger as turbocharger and/or engine damage can result.

CLEANING
WARNING: To prevent damage or personal injury, do not use a combustible cleaner to clean the turbocharger.

Clean the turbocharger, turbocharger oil drain tube flange, and exhaust manifold mounting surfaces with a suitable scraper.

Clean the turbocharger housing of any excess oil solvent.

1. Rinse the turbocharger with hot soapy water to remove any remaining oil or solvent.
2. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and blow dry with compressed air.


INSTALLATION

5.9L DIESEL

CAUTION: Insure that turbocharger and charge air cooler are free of excess oil and debris. If necessary clean turbocharger (Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER - CLEANING) or charge air cooler (Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM/CHARGE AIR COOLER AND PLUMBING - CLEANING).


1. Using a new gasket, install the turbocharger. Tighten the turbocharger mounting nuts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Using a new gasket, install the oil drain tube to the turbocharger. Tighten the drain tube bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.

NOTE: Always use a new clamp when installing the exhaust elbow.

4. Install the exhaust elbow (1)
5. Reinstall the exhaust system on the exhaust hangers.
6. Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger and tighten the bolts to 11 N·m (100 in. lbs.) torque.
7. Connect wastegate command valve connector.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Pre-lube the turbocharger. Pour 50 to 60 cc (2 to 3 oz.) clean engine oil in the oil supply line fitting. Carefully rotate the turbocharger impeller by hand to distribute the oil thoroughly.
10. Install and tighten the oil supply line to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
11. Position the charge air cooler inlet pipe to the turbocharger. With the clamp in position, tighten the clamp nut to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
12. Position the air inlet hose to the turbocharger. Tighten the clamp to 4 N·m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
13. Connect the battery negative cables.
14. Start the engine to check for leaks.

Looks like alot of work for a little bit of carbon on the wheel. I would check it for proper clearance and if OK, clean the tubes and button it up. My $0.02 worth. Good luck. Hope this helps.

 

if its not broke don't mess with it!

 

I agree unless turbine is hitting housing or oil in turbine side don't mess with it.

 

"e. Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) MIN. and 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assembly. "

I'd check the above clearance, CAREFULLY, and if OK button it back up. Unless the impeller is dripping oil, the airflow will scrub it clean. If you try and get all the carbon off the blades you will end up dinging a blade, nicking the housing or FODing in the turbo.

If it really, really bothers you, yank the turbo, send it out, have it cleaned and rebuilt. All kidding aside, change your air filters every 10K and it will self clean.

 

Not something I would have thought of doing.

 

Just remember this is done with the turbo OFF the engine. Don't do this while it is still installed.

 

Good reminder!

 

come on Chad, where is your sense of adventure!