Red,

GEt your self some Fleetgaurds or Baldwins and you don't have to bother wioth that. Use the fluted "wrench" that attaches to a 3/8 drive and spin her off. Plus your offering better protection then those crappy filters.

 

I use fleetguard. Just don't wanna buy the extra wrench . My little brother found this band wrench in a Brookshire Bros parking lot and brought it home to me, so it was free .

 

lol.... welp if you scurry up 8 bucks, next time you go to the store grab one

 

I wouldn't stick anything in the can when changing the filter.

You don't need to bump the starter. The lift pump comes on with the key and will fill the can by itself.

 

I was going to install on of those drain valves but my neighbor brought up a good point... why would you want something hanging down that could be knocked off by road debris on road or a rock or tree branch while off road?

 

yes watch for this. i did this and just ruined my engine, ran it dry and didnt know until too late. very expensive to fix

a 5lb cat litter bucket that you but in stores works perfect for draining the oil into. not the tall buckets but the shorter ones. Fits underneath and holds all the oil

 

Fumoto's dont hang down far enough to really worry a guy, unless he's doing some serious crawling...plus there pretty stout, I dont think a road gator would break one off.

Cut the top inch or so off your 5 Gallon bucket and it will fit under your truck without jacking it up and still hold all your used oil...if it's a 4x4.

Fuel filter...dont run anything other than a Baldwin or the filter ****'s will be all over you!

 

Fleetguard premiums work fine as well. 7 micron fuel filter from what I understand, same as stock.

 

Man I don't know that money is pretty tight right about now . But I'll look into it.

 

Wait for it, wait for it...3, 2, 1...........

 

I know man, I bet it's h@ll trying to get your truck to start after you've completely beat the injection system to death after failing to realize that you need to use the best filter possible to protect your HPCR system from the "sand blasting" tendencies of small particles. O well, after the $5k+ bill the owner might learn, especially since it could have been prevented with the use of a $10 part.

 

Like others have pointed out use Fleetguard premium filters (oil and fuel) and get the fluted socket for the endcap oil filter as well as the 29mm fuel socket from Geno's Garage. By the way Geno's is the best place to get your filters from as well. I also bought from Geno's the drain plug with the magnet that uses a 9/16 socket and is tork spec'd to 40 lbs./ft. I use a large drain pan I bought from Wal-Mart that holds 5 gallons of oil.

Step 1 - After engine is up to operating temp, shut engine off and while it is cooling down get all your tools, drain pans, funnels, filters, oil, and beer to start your project.
Step 2 - I suggest wearing nitrile or latex gloves as the oil stains the hands. Open the oil fill cap on the valve cover to release vacuum pressure when draining oil. Pull drain plug and open a beer.
Step 3 - Now I change my fuel filter with every oil change (7500 miles) So my step 3 is to change the fuel filter while the oil is draining. I place an old pickle jar on top of my axle (4x4) and put the clear hose in the jar. Open the yellow valve to drain fuel bowl. Using the 29mm socket remove top cap and pull the fuel filter and cap off. Replace fuel filter and O ring (dip new O ring in diesel before installing). Place fuel filter and cap back on and tighten to 25 lbs./ft. Cycle key to the run position 3-4 times to allow fuel to fill back up the fuel filter canaster ( do not bump the engine - remember no oil) Crack open another beer.
Step 4 - Replace oil plug and slide drain pan over to catch the oil from the oil filter. Before removing the oil filter I use a long skinning screwdriver and a hammer to puncture a hole in the bottom of my oil filter allowing the oil to drain out before removing. It is less messy to do it this way. Finish second beer.
Step 5 - Remove oil filter using the endcap oil filter socket. Pre fill the new oil filter with new oil ( about 1 quart) and place a thin layer of used oil over the new oil filter gasket. Screw new oil filter on hand tight and then tighten 3/4 of a turn more.
Step 6 - Crack open 3rd beer and fill the rest of the new oil in the engine (11 more quarts to give it the full 12 quarts it needs).
Step 7 - Bump start engine a couple of times to prime fuel canaster again. Let her fire and run for a few minutes while checking for leaks (oil filter, oil plug and fuel filter.
So in summary this is like a seven step process and a 3 beer job. I check my oil level the next morning after it has had a chance to settle completely. It is always perfect.

 

Figured I would throw my Fuel Filter write up in here. Located in the articles section....

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/..._Filter_Change

 

Where do you get your Baldwins for $10?

 

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