I have an 05 CTD (first time diesel owner)and was wondering if someone can guide me to the procedures for changing the fuel filter. I see a lot of nightmares about getting air in the lines. I don't want to mess it up. I only have 200 miles on it and would like the info for future reference.

 

Place a container to catch fuel under the drain line coming from the fuel filter canister.
Open the drain valve(Yellow lever) by turning it counter clockwise about 90 degrees.
Using a 1-1/8" socket loosen and unscrew the fuel canister lid.
By this time most of the fuel will have drained out.
Remove lid and filter.
Remove and Replace filter on canister lid.
Remove and replaced O-ring on lid.
Place filter and lid on fuel canister and screw back on.
Close drain valve.
Bump starter with the key. Wait until you don't hear fuel pump running.
Bump starter with the key the second time. Wait for fuel pump to stop running.
Start your engine.
That's it. A piece of cake.

 

That sounds simple enough!!!! Thanks! I'm sure I'll have more questions as time goes on!!

 

It is so simple even I can do it. I would recommend get a 2 or 3 foot length of heater hose or such to slip on and extend the Fuel Cannister drain line. It is much easier to drain the fuel into a pan or bottle that way. First time mine hit the bucket for the first second or so, long enough for me to stop watching, the rest of the fuel was on the driveway before I knew it.

 

He won't hear the fuel pump run guys....he has the better truck, you know, the NEW one with the lift pump in the tank . At work I have a hand pump vac unit. Take the lid off, suck out the fuel, little spray of brake clean and a hit of compressed air, and in with the new filter. I don't like using the drain tube as I've seen quite a few of them not shut off when you move the valve to close.

 

Most important is to clean the fuel bowl of sediment early in a new truck or old/any diesel engine. Drain the filter completely before removing the cap with filter attached by the plastic clips. YES cracking it to allow air in for rapid draining is a DUH. Don't allow grit to gain access by the black plastic tube intake in the center of the bowl removing a full filter (soaked in unfiltered diesel) before the bowl is dry." EMPTY" . Another way to say this is don't pull off the friggin cap till the bowl is dry! Tell me why yuppies drive a cummins again?

 

I just changed mine for the first time. No problems. Next time should be quicker now that I've done it once. Thanks for the tips guys.

 

I hope you bought a Fleetguard from your friendly neighborhood big rig shop, not a Mopar from the dealer. Same filter, triple the price. You are using Fleetguard oil filters, right?

 

Yeah, I got a fleetguard from the cummins shop in Chesapeake, Va. A little bit of a drive for me but $15 beats $32-40 the dealers wanted.

 

Where is this shop? Im up in Hampton and been looking for one.

 

Fuel Filter
REMOVAL
Refer to maintenance schedules in Owner’s Manual for recommended fuel filter replacement intervals.
Draining water from fuel filter/water separator housing:
The housing drain valve serves two purposes. One is to partially drain the filter housing of excess water.
The other is to completely drain the housing for fuel filter, drain valve, heater element or water-in-fuel sensor replacement.
The filter housing should be partially drained whenever the water-in-fuel warning lamp remains illuminated.
(Note that lamp will be illuminated for approximately two seconds when ignition key is initially placed in ON position for a bulb check).
1. A drain hose is located at the bottom of drain valve. Place drain pan under drain hose.
2. With engine not running, rotate drain valve handle counter-clockwise (rearward) to OPEN (DRAIN) position. Hold drain valve open until all water and contaminants have been removed and clean fuel exits.
3. If fuel filter, drain valve, fuel heater element or Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor is being replaced, drain housing completely.
Dispose of mixture in drain pan according to applicable regulations.
4. After draining operation, rotate valve handle clockwise (forward) to the CLOSE position.
5. Fuel Filter Replacement: The fuel filter is located inside of the fuel filter housing.
a. Clean all debris from around canister.
b. Remove filter lid using a socket. Attach socket to large hex on top of lid. Rotate counterclockwise for removal. Remove O-ring. Discard O-ring.
c. Remove filter element by twisting element sideways from filter lid.
INSTALLATION
1. Thoroughly clean inside of filter housing, filter cap and all related components.
2. Fuel Filter:
a. The engine has a self-priming low-pressure fuel system. Servicing or replacing fuel system components will not require fuel system priming.
b. Install new O-ring to canister lid and lubricate O-ring with clean engine oil.
c. Position new element to canister lid. Place this assembly into canister by rotating clockwise.
d. Tighten cap to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not overtighten cap.

lol, too much detail? Tell it to DC

 

Get a 12" extnsion and a wobble attachment for the socket and your experience will be even better!
Try it!
Oilguy

 

And 25 ft-lbs isn't much. The first time I tried it, I overtightened the cover and pushed the o-ring out of the groove. It SPRAYED. I wrinkled my nose at that because I thought I was putting it on as tight as it had been when I took it off.

I then tried it with a Dial-o-meter torque wrench and the old o-ring, and it worked. Yup, did the wobble extension, too.