Is it any big deal to change the differential fluids, and what is the best fluid to replace the stock fluids with? Any insight on how to do this?

 

I thought it was a pain to get to some of the bolts in the front diff. Other than that it was pretty easy. I raised the front end and put jack stands under the frame and let the axle drop to make the bolts easier to get to. I used Redline gear oil 75w-80.

 

Is there some kind of a pump that is used to get the old fluid out...meaning do I get the old fluid out by the drain hole or is the deal to remove the differential cover?

if the covers need to come off, where can I pivk up the gaskets that would be needed to replace the old ones? Do you fill the level to the top of the drain hole, and is this 2 quarts or ? for the amount for each differential?

 

Rubber sealed gasket is reuseable many times.Forgot how much fliud goes in front and the rear.Like 2.3 pints front and 3.something rear.Oh heck will someone with the specs post them.

 

Here's some info about the same subject I posted on www.kydtr.com/ November 7th, 2004 :

For everyone out there with a 3rd GEN RAM 2500 or 3500, you'll be pleased to know that the front 9.25 AAM axle and rear 10.50's and 11.50's AAM axles have a re-useable gasket....no more buying silicone for gasket maker when doing fluid changes.

The rear fluid is a breeze to change; the cover bolts are easily accessed and the fill plug is easy to access, as well as installing fluid from a quart bottle.....the front is more difficult due to the tie rod location; the upper cover bolts are a pain in the ****, the fill plug is also hard to access with a quart bottle... In addition, there is no additive required if your axle is of the anti-spin variety. The fluid is 75W90 Full Synthetic GL-5 for front & rears. I used Valvoline Synpower and changed at 19K miles or so. You'll need about 4 quarts for the rear 11.50 AAM & 2 quarts or so for the front 9.25 AAM. I had 7 quarts on hand just in case, as I live in the sticks.

There's still some confusion as to the fill level requirements; here's a post from the TDR :

OK, as far as the fill levels go, I did extensive research before doing mine, the results;

- the front 9.25" differential takes 1/4" below the fill hole with a tolerance of + or - 1/4", which means that filling it until it runs out is fine.

- The rear 11.5" differential is more confusing. Original info (including a fax from DC) says that it takes 1/2" below the fill hole with a tolerance of + or - a 1/4". This is (I believe) the information containted in Tech Tip #34. One member called the DC Tech line for any new info and was told 1/4" below the fill hole with a tolerance of + or - 1/4" (which again would indicate that filling it until it runs out is fine). This is confirmed by Tech Tip #40 which supercedes Tech Tip #34.

- The 10.5" rear is 3/4" below +/- 1/4"

To further confuse things, DC has been filling to the minumum levels, whereas most of us fill to the maximum levels.

Use 75W90 GL-5 synthetic fluid only (DC part # 051022322aa) which is also available from Texaco.

Here's a link to the entire thread :

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...d.php?t=114658

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...d.php?t=113927

Greg

 

Thanks for the info, but to cap it off what is the bolt pattern to tighten and torque specs for the bolts? All I can find in my area is the Mobil 1 75W-90...is this O.K. to use? thanks again!

 

Use your 13mm socket and torque the cover bolts to 30 ft lbs - all the way around - be careful and don't over tighten them, I've heard that they sometimes break. Fill plug torque is 24 ft lbs. M1 will work great.

 

I have been running the Mobil 1 75-90 syn for over 48K mile now with no problems. I change mine every 15K miles and it is still nice and clean, just a little darker than the new fluid. Follow bulabula instructions on the TQ specs. and all will be fine.

 

If the bolts have oil on them and some will... DON'T torque to 30lbs..Ask me I know, had one shear off and it wat a pita to get out!! From now on I'm just turning them till they are tight.


My .02

Jamie

 

Just pulled teh cover and noticed a dab od red loc-tite on each bolt. did not see that mentioned here, so place a dab on each bolt? I thought something was up as I tried using my air ratchet and it would not budge the bolts...so I had to loosen them by hand first...and it seemed like the loc-tite was making them feel more than 30 ft lbs of torque!

 

I haven't used loc-tite on mine; just torqued them to 30#'s like the book calls for.

 

Red loc-tite is for bolts that are never going to be apart again!!

If you insist on using loc-tite use the blue!!

Rick

 

There was red loc-tite on the bolts that I took off...not too much...just a dab. So when I replaced the fluid, I added the same...just a dab. It was probably on there for vibration reasons? I just hope I do not hope I have a leaking seal as after everything was bolted up and the fluid put in...there is a very small drip that takes forever to drop to the ground. It is my hope that this was just the old fluid remant going to the lowest point and dripping. the diff cover came off easy, no prying, and i did not see anything with the gasket that could have left me to think there was a problem.