I found out that my 06 2500 has a sloppy front wheel bearing. The truck has 35,000 miles on it. It is a U.S. import truck into Canada with no warranty. I'm very mechanicaly inclined but kind of chicken to do this job. I understand that a special puller is required. Can I make one? Is this job really as bad as people make it out to be. I can get the bearing assemblies for 300 a piece. Dodge wants about 1300 to use mopar parts installed. If I use aftermarket I would save about 700 dollars. Just looking for some advice about doing this job. I have done wheel bearings before but not a complete hub style like this. Thanks for any help or info someone can give me.

 

The most difficult part of the job is removing the unit bearing. Here is a link the may help:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-cu...placement.html

 

Thanks, I'll check it out

 

I just did it.... sucks trying to get the bearing out... but every other part of it is simple.

 

it's not the most fun job, but not impossible. i ran into some problems like rounded bolts but i got her apart.

 

I changed one on a 97 dodge with 180,000 miles. A few small taps on the loosened bolts, and it was loose. I guess that's one good thing about living in a dry climate.

 

I came, I saw,..........I failed. I tried every trick in the book and ended putting it all back together then taking it to the shop. Ended up putting the heat to the bearing and replaced everything. Check into the trick of adding grease through the abs sensor hole to get the bearing lubed.

 

So, where do you find out about that little 'trick'? Do we have a post or two that discussed it? Or, is that information found in the link that Dodge 35000 posted here?

I have 45K and so far without any signs of any front end problems (knock on wood - maybe knock down trees if it will keep the bearing boogey man outa my life) so I would be interested in doing anything that would serve to ease the repairs list. I am hoping that living in a more or less dry climate has done a lot to avoid what wet, snowy salty roads seem capable of causing. Obviously, bearings are the enevitable due to normal wear.

CD

 

Here is one that I found...

ABS

 

Why heat the bearing to cause it to expand.....I would heat the pocket and use dry ice to shrink the bearing proper.

 

Heat and cooling will help get the rust to break loose

 

Thanks Alan - I'll check it out.

CD

 

Needs two people. After the hard part of getting the axle nut off (1-11/16" @ 260 ft lbs torque + rust) loosen the four hub bolts on the backside of the hub and back them out about a 1/4-1/2". Use a good 6-7" socket extension and place it between a hub bolt head and the other end's closest touching point on the axle housing. Use the power steering to push the hub out of the knuckle. Alternate between bolts. Turn the wheel 1/4 turns slowly and lightly. It will bind so don't be cranking on the wheel. go slowly and the hub will come out in minutes without heat or hammer force. Just did a guys on here recently. Worked beautifully. These are abreviated directions.

Chris

 

I tried that method also and almost bent my linkage doing it.. Tried that method for 2 days with PB Blaster sprays every couple of hours. Didn't work for me

 

I had mine off in about 10 minutes and my climate isn't exactly dry. I put a 3 point puller on it, to about 200 ft lbs, hit it with a hammer, took the puller off moved it to a different spot same torque, hit it again, and it broke loose, kept tightening the puller and hitting it and it slowly comes off. Truck has 80k miles and the hub has never been off. Many guys have been able to get it off with just a hammer, if you hit it right. They are seized on there pretty good, but the right hits and it comes off like nothing.

I wouldn't do the powersteering method, your steering is not a puller/press and using it as one could end up costly.

How do you think guys at shops take them off? BFH maybe a puller to. I bet anyone who has done it a few times, 20 mins from the time they start until everything is off.