Buying used Gears - what else is needed?
It seems that about 6 months ago there were several people who wanted to swap to 4.10's because they were getting 35's or already got 35's and were complaining about the lack of power, or the noticeable change.
There were several others who wanted to BUY their truck with 4.10's because they had intentions of installing 35's.
Now everyone says that 4.10's are not worth it?
Go away for a few months, and everything changes or what?
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Originally, I had a 31.6" Tire (265/70R17) with 3.73 gears.
I now have a 34.63" Tire (325/65R18) with 3.73 gears.
I increased my tire size by roughly 10%, thus reducing my overall gear ratio by 10%
If I increase my 3.73 axle ratio to 4.1, I'll basically be adding that 10% back into my final drive (3.73+.373= 4.103). This should yield the same final drive as I had when 'stock', thus providing original mileage (less the added wind and rolling resistance), 'original' power (seat of the pants, less the added wind and rolling resistance), and likely less wear/tear on the driveline caused by the lugging and lower RPM's that larger tires cause. The suspension wear is inevitable.
Is this not correct? I am honestly trying to figure this out, not being a smartazz.
It seems that the FIRST thing anyone should do if increasing their tire size is to change their gear ratio to match them. Years ago when I was lifting other trucks, this was the FIRST thing everyone told me. "Don't change those tires unless you plan to change the gears also!"
I KNOW my truck has plenty of power to turn the 35's. BUT, it the 35's still give a noticeable difference in power, shifting, etc...and logically I would think the 4.10's would correct this.
Anyone?
For the record, I've got two mustangs and an SRT6 Crossfire when I want to go 90+mph. The truck is made for 0-65, with a LOT of low-speed beach 'lugging', where the 4.10's and 'stock' final drive would likely help out a lot. Although I don't tow, going back to stock would benefit me, especially on the sand.
SQ
There were several others who wanted to BUY their truck with 4.10's because they had intentions of installing 35's.
Now everyone says that 4.10's are not worth it?
Go away for a few months, and everything changes or what?
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Originally, I had a 31.6" Tire (265/70R17) with 3.73 gears.
I now have a 34.63" Tire (325/65R18) with 3.73 gears.
I increased my tire size by roughly 10%, thus reducing my overall gear ratio by 10%
If I increase my 3.73 axle ratio to 4.1, I'll basically be adding that 10% back into my final drive (3.73+.373= 4.103). This should yield the same final drive as I had when 'stock', thus providing original mileage (less the added wind and rolling resistance), 'original' power (seat of the pants, less the added wind and rolling resistance), and likely less wear/tear on the driveline caused by the lugging and lower RPM's that larger tires cause. The suspension wear is inevitable.
Is this not correct? I am honestly trying to figure this out, not being a smartazz.
It seems that the FIRST thing anyone should do if increasing their tire size is to change their gear ratio to match them. Years ago when I was lifting other trucks, this was the FIRST thing everyone told me. "Don't change those tires unless you plan to change the gears also!"
I KNOW my truck has plenty of power to turn the 35's. BUT, it the 35's still give a noticeable difference in power, shifting, etc...and logically I would think the 4.10's would correct this.
Anyone?
For the record, I've got two mustangs and an SRT6 Crossfire when I want to go 90+mph. The truck is made for 0-65, with a LOT of low-speed beach 'lugging', where the 4.10's and 'stock' final drive would likely help out a lot. Although I don't tow, going back to stock would benefit me, especially on the sand.
SQ
All it sounds like here is you are trying to convince yourself you need 4.10's. And probaly because you are getting a good deal on a used set of gears. Hey, put them in, have fun, get after it.
4.10 vs 3.73 @ 60 = 1670 vs 1513
your call. for the $ if realy worried about trans, upgrade the converter...
There is a very evident seat of the pants change when going from a stock truck with stock tires, to a stock truck with aftermarket tires. I have friends with stock trucks, and they would smoke me now that I have 35's.
They are 10% taller, a lot wider and heavier - they MUST alter performance.
For the record - my buddy just sold his gears, so I missed out on that set. I'm still looking though - would prefer to just swap someone.
SQ
Maybe stock. I would not know, as my truck (nor any truck that I have owned) has been stock. But I can tell you, I notice no difference from stock tires to my 35x12.50.
The one in your gallery has stock tires, 2wd as far as I can tell...
SQ

wow.. some one needs to learn to use this...



I am going to purchase a set of used 4.10's from a friend with a low-mile truck.
My truck has 3.73's, and I want to make up for the 35" tires. I have a reputable person to install them...but not sure what else I will need OTHER than the gears themselves.
My truck has 70K on it, and I have never pulled more than 6K with it, and rarely tow ANYTHING. I do a lot of beach driving, 4x4 Hi and Low, probably 800-1200 miles a year. Otherwise, it is a daily driver with relatively easy use.
So, aside from 4.10 R&P Sets for front and rear, what else will I need?
Fluid obviously - how much?
Install kits? Which ones?
Anything else I should change/check/service while I'm in there?
Thanks
Shawn
My truck has 3.73's, and I want to make up for the 35" tires. I have a reputable person to install them...but not sure what else I will need OTHER than the gears themselves.
My truck has 70K on it, and I have never pulled more than 6K with it, and rarely tow ANYTHING. I do a lot of beach driving, 4x4 Hi and Low, probably 800-1200 miles a year. Otherwise, it is a daily driver with relatively easy use.
So, aside from 4.10 R&P Sets for front and rear, what else will I need?
Fluid obviously - how much?
Install kits? Which ones?
Anything else I should change/check/service while I'm in there?
Thanks
Shawn
This is really only a problem when towing a 24ft enclosed car hauler though.
SSminnow - a guy wants to know what he will need to make the swap, not a hundred opinions why he shouldn't do it. I've seen many of your posts recently and there seems to be ATTITUDE in most of them, and many are not very helpful.
SQ - You may not tow now, but you may in the future. I know from experience that 35s will make a difference over stock tires when it comes to putting power to the ground. I'm running 4.10s with 285s now putting my effective gear ratio at 3.90. Runs great on the freeway (2K RPM @ 70) and tows an 11k toyhauler perfectly. My speedo is reset via Smarty.
If you have the $$$, go for it. Better to find someone to swap axles though. Seems lots of peeps out there want freeway gears.
SQ - You may not tow now, but you may in the future. I know from experience that 35s will make a difference over stock tires when it comes to putting power to the ground. I'm running 4.10s with 285s now putting my effective gear ratio at 3.90. Runs great on the freeway (2K RPM @ 70) and tows an 11k toyhauler perfectly. My speedo is reset via Smarty.
If you have the $$$, go for it. Better to find someone to swap axles though. Seems lots of peeps out there want freeway gears.



