brake job
No special tools needed. Very easy job. You will need a c-clamp and/or some channel-lock pliers to push the pistons back into the caliper to make room for the new pads. While you're at it, you should bleed the brake fluid if it has never been done. A little preventative maintenance on the braking system goes a long way. Good luck.
I had to tear down one front side this weekend to replace a broken wheel stud, so I just went through the entire process (and removed but didn't actually change out the pads).
You need basic hand tools, good sized C-clamp, and a cheapo brake bleeder kit to capture the fluid when you push the pistons back into the caliper (I don't like to push fluid backward through the system). Both metric and SAE bolts are found. You should have a torque wrench as well.
If you've never changed brakes before, enlist a friend who has and whom you trust to help you the first time. These are your BRAKES, after all and not the system to learn about working on trucks. That said, these are straightforward as brakes go.
Brake shops have placed an unnecessary shroud of mystery and great expense around servicing the wear parts of brake systems. Disk brakes are actually MUCH easier than the old drum brakes with their keeper clips and pins, springs, adjusters, and parking brake cables and levers. Its a piece of cake, nowadays.
You need basic hand tools, good sized C-clamp, and a cheapo brake bleeder kit to capture the fluid when you push the pistons back into the caliper (I don't like to push fluid backward through the system). Both metric and SAE bolts are found. You should have a torque wrench as well.
If you've never changed brakes before, enlist a friend who has and whom you trust to help you the first time. These are your BRAKES, after all and not the system to learn about working on trucks. That said, these are straightforward as brakes go.
Brake shops have placed an unnecessary shroud of mystery and great expense around servicing the wear parts of brake systems. Disk brakes are actually MUCH easier than the old drum brakes with their keeper clips and pins, springs, adjusters, and parking brake cables and levers. Its a piece of cake, nowadays.
Make sure that when you take the caliper off, that you take the required time to clean, polish if necessary, and lube the slider rods. These are critical to not having hot spots that will later turn into pulsing on the brake pedal.
There is really no way to do the job "Half Way" remember as you push the piston back into the bore of the caliper you are also pushing the build up if any back into the caliper. This could cause the seal to leak.
None of it is hard, just doing it right takes time. As stated above it is pretty straight forward. Most likely new pads will not seat correctly on rotors that have not been turned or surface blasted.
Just remember, taking the time, spend necessary money to do it right, Is the cheapest insurance you can find. And if done wrong, maybe the most expensive.
Brakes = $
Hospital or body shop= $x10
There is really no way to do the job "Half Way" remember as you push the piston back into the bore of the caliper you are also pushing the build up if any back into the caliper. This could cause the seal to leak.
None of it is hard, just doing it right takes time. As stated above it is pretty straight forward. Most likely new pads will not seat correctly on rotors that have not been turned or surface blasted.
Just remember, taking the time, spend necessary money to do it right, Is the cheapest insurance you can find. And if done wrong, maybe the most expensive.
Brakes = $
Hospital or body shop= $x10
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